Beginner painting questions

[SouthBelleGroveOutdoors]

Hello, I'm still fairly new to painting hard baits with 30ish baits done so far.  I just started using blank crankbaits.  I have a few questions;

1.  Do you clean the plastic crankbait blanks before applying the base coat?  I have had a few blanks where the base coat didn't coat the bait well.  It looked like the paint beaded a little as if oil or something was on the blank.  I don't use gloves yet, but I don't finger up the baits either.  I also think the person packaging the blanks to sell would touch them up anyhow.

2.  I haven't heard of anyone using a spray paint primer for a base coat.  Before I got my airbrush I used a white primer but then used spray paint to paint the baits.  I tried it this week and didn't see any problems when applying airbrush paint on top.  Is the reason I don't see it being used based on cost?  Is it just as easy to use airbrush paint?  I would think that grabbing the spray paint can would be quicker than cleaning the airbrush out.

3.  After the final clear coat, how do you clean out any eyes that are filled with epoxy?  I tried a jig eyebuster and also used my small HF dremel.

 

TIA,

Matt

[BobP]

Blank plastic bodies often have oil or other petroleum contaminants on them that were part of the manufacturing process.  It’s a good idea to wipe them down with alcohol before painting.  Chinese blank factories could often care less about “touch ups”.

 I just use white airbrush paint as a color basecoat.  Specifically, I like Polytranspar Superhide White because it has lots of white pigment and dries quickly to a hard smooth finish.  There are other brands that have “hide” or “cover” in their names designed for the same purpose.  Aerosol whites can be used but why bother?  Also, I hate the strong chemical smell the exude long after application.  One bait in my box can stink up all the baits in there.

I put in the eyes before topcoating and it’s rare that there’s any problem just leaving the topcoat over them.  Besides, it helps keep them stuck into their recesses.  The only time I have problems is if I try to use eyes that don’t fit well in the recesses.  If they are too large, you can get an air pocket under the eye and when the epoxy is curing and producing heat, the air will expand and cause a bubble in the topcoat. 

[SouthBelleGroveOutdoors]

Thanks BobP,

For #3 I meant hook eyes.  Any ideas?

[AZ Fisher]

Some guys will use a drill bit to remove the clear from the hook hangers and line ties. I don't like the thought of potentially nicking or abrading the inside of the line tie with a drill bit. I will use an Exacto knife and score around the hardware, near the bait body and then I use the sharp end of a dart head and the exacto, to poke and pry the remaining clear from the hardware. 

[BobP]

I just epoxy over mine and zip the epoxy out with a 1-2 mm micro drill bit in a Dremel after it cures.  A small piece of stiff ss wire works almost as well.

[Mayberry_Customs]

I have mentioned this before, may seem crazy but its what I always do and it works well..after you coat your lure with epoxy and its on the turner. Right after brushing it on (epoxy is still wet)stop it momentarily, take a piece of small SS wire and pass it through the hook eye grabbing it on the other side...don't put it in the eye and pull it back the same way, it has to be passed through...this grabs epoxy as its pulled through...i usually do one at a time, let it spin at least once after you do one...even if the epoxy is starting to set up this still works as long as you hit it with a little heat...I much prefer this instead of post cleaning them....when you do this there is no epoxy in the eye and around it is all smooth and "factory" looking.

 

Andy

[MonteSS]

You should scuff the blanks with a red 3m pad till they are not hiney for better adhesion

Clean with regular Isopropyl alcohol.

Shack your paints better for #2

Immediately after brushing Epoxy Is clean the eyes out with a small pick. I dont use a drying wheel but hand rotate the bait 180 degrees every 5-10 mins till it starts to thicken

[mark poulson]

For #1 and #2, I dip my plastic blanks quickly in clean acetone.  Quickly, because the acetone is usually a solvent for the plastic itself, or the glue.   A quick dip exposed a fresh "virgin" layer of plastic, and my Createx will stick to the blank without primer, so I can even paint ghost patterns, as well as patterns that require a white or colored base coat.

[Chuck Young]

1) Denatured alcohol also be used  to clean blanks - it smells better. 

2) An airbrush gives you much better control than a rattle can. You can remove most or even all of your scale detail if you are not careful. Cleaning an airbrush between coats can be a s simple as running a little water through it. I currently use a bottom feed, so touch the bottle, remove, empty, repeat. Finally spray it dry while shaking it. It takes seconds. If I feel there is a clog, I back-flush. 

I am looking to add a second (top feed) brush for more detail. Both will be hooked up and available. My plan on cleaning the top feed it to clean out the cup by spraying water from the first brush into the cup and chasing the paint out of it. Then spraying water through the brush itself. 

3) Avoid getting it in the eyes (too much topcoat or not rotating a lure can cause this). You have to seal by the eyes, but use care and remove the excess. A wider brush will apply topcoat more evenly. It can be cleaned with denatured alcohol and wrapped in a paper towel for reuse. 

The wire thing works great while the epoxy has not set. A toothpick works well also. Mechanically removing set epoxy has to be done with care. Too much pressure can split some low quality blanks.

[Chuck Young]

Monte, be careful with that spell check.