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Crankbait build coat

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One guy who worked in a manufacturing facility related that they used floor glue doped with white pigment as their build coat.  “Build coat” means different things to different people.  Some commercial wood crankbait makers use a very thick build coat that allows them to cover wood blanks that are not sanded smooth, which saves a labor intensive and costly fine sanding process.  I’ve stripped Poe crankbaits which had at least a 1/8” thick build coat.  Same for some of the older Rapalas from the 1980’s.  The Poes were solvent based and very flammable.  The Rapalas were water based and nonflammable.  Don’t ask how I know.   As far as small batch builders go, you might try Zinsser Bin, a white shellac based primer/cover product that is dippable.  Personally I use lightly sanded Devcon Two Ton epoxy as my build/undercoating on balsa baits followed by Polytranspar Superhide White as a color basecoat.  But I’m in no particular hurry during the build process. 

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11 hours ago, BobP said:

One guy who worked in a manufacturing facility related that they used floor glue doped with white pigment as their build coat.  “Build coat” means different things to different people.  Some commercial wood crankbait makers use a very thick build coat that allows them to cover wood blanks that are not sanded smooth, which saves a labor intensive and costly fine sanding process.  I’ve stripped Poe crankbaits which had at least a 1/8” thick build coat.  Same for some of the older Rapalas from the 1980’s.  The Poes were solvent based and very flammable.  The Rapalas were water based and nonflammable.  Don’t ask how I know.   As far as small batch builders go, you might try Zinsser Bin, a white shellac based primer/cover product that is dippable.  Personally I use lightly sanded Devcon Two Ton epoxy as my build/undercoating on balsa baits followed by Polytranspar Superhide White as a color basecoat.  But I’m in no particular hurry during the build process. 

Thanks I  will try the polytranspar, def. in no hurry since its mainly  for me... def don't mind some of that buildcoat esp. since not all blanks are perfect.

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I’m not sure it matters what you use to undercoat a wood bait with, as long as it is hopefully waterproof.  Once you choose a product with that quality, you can then consider products based on their hardness, toughness, speed of drying or curing, thickness, compatibility with the other finish products you use, odor, safety, price, etc, to suit your build program.  There are myriad choices.

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KBS   don't thin

Titebond 3  haven't tried it.  I have used Titebond 2, and I thin it 25% water, or until it's thin enough to be absorbed.

Devcon 2 Ton   25% denatured alcohol AFTER the two epoxy component are thoroughly mixed  I have some left over E tex and NuLuster epoxy, and they both wiil work when thinned the same way.

Super glue  don't thin   I'm not sure you can even thin it before it sets.  The runny stuff is so thin to begin with, I think there's no need to thin it.

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I wouldn’t think KBS needs any thinning.  I thin a small batch of Devcon, enough for several baits by using my artist’s brush to pick up some denatured alcohol and shaking it into the mixed epoxy, then stirring it in.  It doesn’t take much to change the viscosity of the epoxy to whatever consistency you want.  I don’t want mine to be too thin.  After all, thicker is more durable and epoxy thinned with alcohol will tend to raise wood grain.  If the coating is too thin you may have to do a second coat after sanding down the grain pops.

when measuring Devcon for average size bass crankbaits, I use 1 cc of each part, per bait, measured with epoxy syringes.  Since bar top epoxies like Envirotex Lite come already thinned, I wouldn’t thin them at all.

Edited by BobP
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No sir i do not. I just pour it into my dollar store container and dip and drip thin hang. Simple as that.  

1. After initial shaping I put it on the holder.  

2. Dip and drip then sit over night to dry.

3.  Then I sand again with the sanding drum with the sading paper with scotch brite pads together to knock of raised grain.

4.  Drill belly holes and glue in belly weights.

5. Dip and drip and dry over night.

6. Dip and drip, dry over night.

7. Ready for paint.

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