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Sfrye37

Duplicator

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I used a side grinder with a saw tooth blade. The advantages are that it cuts efficiently and is very cheap to replace. The disadvantage is that you are going to get ridges. The solution to the ridges is to reduce the feed of the grinder, but this increases the production time. I never got around to trying this.

The best cutter for a fine finish would be a round nose milling bit, but this would not work with the side grinder. The disadvantage is that the bits are very expensive and they do dull.

If I was to get back to the project, I would try to reduce the cross-feed of the grinder to 0.5mm (not sure how yet) and 'round' the corners of a fine saw disk.

Personally the ridges were a minor inconvenience. When I started a new lure, I took a blank from the box and spent a minute or two on the drill press with a flap-wheel to knock some of the ridges down. I was not selling lures, so surface finish was not an issue. Plus, the epoxy top coat would probably eliminate the ridges and give a smooth finish.

I suggest that you find out the range of cutter disks available and try them all out, and see what works for you.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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I like the angle grinder solution. The only problem is the surface finish. You should show a close-up of the finished blank so that members can see what they are essentially dealing with, what they can expect.

The finish is determined by the thread pitch of the drive. The standard pitch is 1mm. If you could obtain a drive screw with a 0.5mm pitch then the finish would be good enough not to need any post processing of the blanks.

Unfortunately, the drive screw has to be of sufficient diameter so that 'bending' does not come into the equation.

The speed of the drive screw also has limitations. Too fast and the stylus (master follower) will bounce. I found the limit to be between 60 - 65rpm. This gives about 1" per minute. Allowing for a couple of minutes for resetting and loading another stock blank, gives 12 - 15 blanks per minute.

Post processing (flap wheel) is about 2 - 3 minutes per blank, giving about 6 minutes work per blank. So, on average, 10 blanks an hour for a 3" lure. This is obviously not mass production standards, but as a prototype engineer, I can spend a day at the machine and produce 50 identical blanks without driving myself crazy with the machine. Enough to keep me busy for a few weeks of testing.

For a low production process, you could probably do 200 lures completed per week with painting and assembly.

Here is a pic of the product of one session on the dup machine after post processing. I did these for a paying customer. He declared that he was not satisfied and refused to pay. Experience told me that the blank bodies were too deep and thin, I guess he found out the hard way. Not as hard as I found out. Money up front next time, but I doubt there will ever be a next time. My time is too valuable. I sold myself short and got screwed. Yes, he was a TU member.

Dave

dup blanks.jpg

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Thank you for the response.  I am still building it and when it is complete I will post pictures and get opinions of the finished product.  I am no engineer,  I am just trying to figure out a way to make a few baits that is easier than carving and sanding it all by hand. 

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21 minutes ago, Боливар said:

Yes, you are right. The processing accuracy wants the best. Therefore, I made myself a CNC. The cleaning quality is much better and can withstand all dimensions.

 

Is that a CNC duplicator machine?

That would be the ultimate duplicator; no speed restrictions, no bounce, 0.25mm resolution or finer.

I speculate that 10 cuts per second might be possible with vibration damping. That would produce a 3" body in 30 seconds, with a resolution of 0.25mm, not requiring any post processing other than rounding the nose. With twin cutters that time would be halved.

I have such a machine in my head but have no CNC experience required to build and program the beast. TBO I am surprised the big manufacturing houses haven't built this before now.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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On 06.01.2019 at 18:12, Vodkaman said:

 

Это дублирующий станок с ЧПУ?

Это был бы конечный дубликатор; нет ограничений по скорости, нет отказов, разрешение 0,25 мм или лучше.

Я предполагаю, что 10 сокращений в секунду могли бы быть возможными с гашением вибрации. Это даст 3-дюймовый корпус за 30 секунд с разрешением 0,25 мм, не требующий какой-либо последующей обработки, кроме закругления носа. При использовании двух резцов это время будет уменьшено вдвое.

У меня есть такая машина в моей голове, но у меня нет опыта работы с ЧПУ для сборки и программирования зверя. TBO Я удивлен, что крупные производственные дома не построили это раньше.

Дейв

Dave machine can be bought in China and the program can be ordered on site.

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That machine, adapting a 3 axis into a 2 axis function is pretty much what I had in mind, the 3rd axis being the rotation. Obviously the machine in the video is capable of great detail, but this comes at the expense of speed.

For turning out featureless bodies, my machine would still use the rotating saw cutter as used in the angle grinder type machine.

I will view the other videos at my leisure. Great information, thanks for posting.

Dave

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Sfrye37 - I carve my masters from wood, and harden with a coat of D2T 30 min epoxy.

You must make sure the follower is not sharp or too thin, or not pressing too hard on the master, otherwise it will cut ridges in the master after a few hundred runs.

The pressure of the follower contact must be as light as possible without bouncing. Too heavy and the master will suffer ridges.

Dave

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On 15.01.2019 at 11:15, Sfrye37 said:

Я жду, когда прибудет последний двигатель, и моя машина будет готова попробовать. Как вы, ребята, делаете мастера, которого дублируете? Делаете ли вы форму детали, которую хотите дублировать, а затем заливаете мастер из смолы или чего-то еще?  

Hi. On the first video of the machine, I grind a copy from aluminum. And I already make a copy. On the CNC, I write a program and on it I grind out what I need.

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Well I got it done and it was a big failure.   I built the frame that the grinder sits on out of aluminum angle.  So it has flex in it and every time the tracer goes down the end with the grinder on it flexes and it cuts deep into the wood.  I guess I have to get steel angle and start over 

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