small bait +air pocket= ability to add more weight ?

[5 fish on]

I made a handful of thin flat baits and tested them after sealing but begore paint and topcoat . Everything worked smoothly upon testing . After topcoat and finishtuning I found out that they slowly sank . To fix the problem I drilled a little weight out of them and they seem to work properly now. The problem now is that they are too light for baitcasting gear. I don't mind using spinning rods just prefer casting . I was wondering if I could create some sort of air pocket to increasing bouyancy and allow me to add more weight ? Another beginer question , are thin longer billed baits more sensitive to tuning? I have only made a few baits, some shallow wide wobbling and some thin tight wobbling ones . The shallow ones only take a few adjustments . The others are just a pain in the butt.

[RiverMan]

Several options for you:

1. You could have just left the lead in, nothing wrong with a bait that sinks slowly so long as it swims fine.

2. Now that you have removed the lead and find it too light cast it with a spinning outfit, they work better for "light" work anyway or add a couple splits shots in front of the bait 12 inches or so. Ever tried casting a 1/16th oz crappie jig with a baitcast? Good luck!

3. Use a more buoyant wood next time such as balsa or cedar so that addittional lead (and weight) is required thus improving casting distance.

4. Increase the size of the bait.

RM

www.bikinibaitcompany.com

[5 fish on]

I plan to rip it out of grass and a floating bait makes for a less aggrivating day . I used cedar and I was trying to match the size of a plastic bait that is good to me. The topcoat is as thin as I could get it . Infact it is too thin because after one days fishing the hook track wore through in a spot .

[Tally]

As I was once told here: A picture is worth a thousand words. Post a picture, tell us the size and how much weight you have used. Without stirring everyone up, what are you using for a topcoat?

Tally