muskiestalker51

Belly weight and hanger

22 posts in this topic

I like to melt my lead then pour it into the drilled belly hole. Any pointer on how to put a hook hanger in after I've poured the weight? Drilling in the lead is what I'm thinking. Then fill the remainder with bondo.

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I poured lead into a hole and the hot lead charred the wood and made a weak installation, which I discovered when the ballast shot out of the belly when the lure was slapped on the water.  A big musky might do the same.  So I prefer to epoxy ballast  into the lure.  But yes, you can drill lead to install the hook hanger, or you can just put them in different places.

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Tutorial in the hard bait section worth reading.  ;)

 

Edited by Travis

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Thanks for the reply’s. So I found the tutorial on weight.  I made a mold out of hardwood drilled 1/4 holes them poured. Now I can weigh each weight spec. I drilled the hole just in front where I’ll put the hanger. I’m going to fill the remainder off the drilled hole with epoxy. Those the expo you sand well? Thanks again

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Epoxy is hard to sand.  It's usually harder than the bait body, so you wind up with a kind of a recess around the epoxy, as the wood and/or resin is removed more easily by sanding.

I use super glue to anchor ballast, and then fill the holes with Bondo, which is softer and easier to sand even with the lure body.  Once it's smooth, I'll add a drop of runny super glue to make the Bondo's surface harder and stronger, before I prime and paint.

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You can catch the epoxy in a state where it trims easily with a knife and can then be cleaned with sandpaper.  The epoxy is soft but with a sharp blade it will shave it off with no issues.  Sanding will then finish it flush with the bait.

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Bare with me as I am playing catch up here.  I assume you are talking about Coleys tutorial?  Very sharp and intelligent man.

after you pour, are you cutting the amount of lead off that you want? or using the entire piece?

are you weighing each piece of lead that you install?  A "good" scale is very important.

It sounds like you have now changed the weight placement?  This will also change the characteristics of the bait.  Do you have some pictures of this bait and what you are doing? 

Just curious as to why you need to sand if the hook hanger is in the "belly" weight?  or bondo?  

I will help you and give you my opinion.  whether or not you like my opinion, it is still your bait to do as YOU please and want.  Precision will allow you to make the same bait over and over. 

Damn I love this stuff lol

Tally 

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Ok sorry about beating this to death but I have 1 more question. I was starting to pour some more weights with the hook hanger in them and before I melted lead I wondered. So when I do pour these I'm curious what keeps the weight pulling out of the bait. Not sure about a fish but snags. Any ideas. The baits are for muskies.

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I use devcon 5 minute for belly weights and hook hangers and lips.  never had one pull out.  if you do it right, you won't have to fill or sand

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yes, but you don't want the hole too big.  just enough for the weight i slide in.  you hook hanger screw or wire should already be in the weight.  vital that everything is dead center and that the hook hanger is straight as well.  fill the hole with devcon 5 minute, push the weight in about half way then pull almost out, then push back in and center.  take a stiff little brush and clean up the ooze.  trial and error here and you will figure out how much devcon to put in the hole.  make sure that the bait and where your hook hanger become one with the devcon (if that makes sense).......... if you do need to "sand", use a medium or larger fingernail file.  Best way to remove devcon mistakes.  

wow so many questions I need to ask for you to get this right...... have you been making crankbaits long?

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I learned from the master (Skeeter) moons ago.  I will be happy to pass on any help I can to you.  I never made a musky bait but I am going to assume they are crankbaits just larger?   If you are serious about making a "good" lure, be prepared for a lot of trial and error......... just because it's a block of wood with a lip doesn't mean it's a "good" crankbait.   everything has to be precise and duplicated exactly the same.  Either way, have fun making your lure.  If you want to really know the ins and outs, you will learn how to weight the bait perfectly.  There are no dumb questions but the questions you ask will tell me if you are doing your part.  This is exactly how Skeeter treated me and he knew from my questions I was doing my trial and error.  

again, just have fun and if you have questions, ask away

Tally

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I have never fished for musky or pike, but, here on the CA Delta, we have bass over 10 lbs, and stripers over 40 lbs,

For big baits that might catch big bass and stripers, heavier baits give big fish a lot of weight to use as leverage to throw the hook, so I don't use hook hangers with the ballast attached when I'm building them.

I use 1/4" lead wire in predrilled holes in the belly for ballast.  I put my 1/4" lead wire ballast in separate holes on either side of the belly hanger, from front to back.  For bigger baits that need even more ballast, I'm sure thicker lead wire is available, or you can just use lead sinkers.

 Instead of attaching the belly hook hanger to the ballast, I use a heavy Spro #4 swivel for the belly hook hanger, glued in carefully so it still spins freely, and pin it in with a piece of spinnerbait wire passed through the eye that's buried in the bait, side to side.  That takes away the fish's ability to torque the hook out of it's mouth, and I land a lot more fish.

This is just another option.

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Mark I really like the thought of using the 1/4 lead wire. What or where is a good source to find that. Then I could use the eye screws. Is it called lead wire?

I bet it would be alot easier to make adjustments with. I want to make sure I have to bait adjusted correctly before I attempt finishing it.

Thanks e1 very informative

 

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20 minutes ago, muskiestalker51 said:

Mark I really like the thought of using the 1/4 lead wire. What or where is a good source to find that. Then I could use the eye screws. Is it called lead wire?

I bet it would be alot easier to make adjustments with. I want to make sure I have to bait adjusted correctly before I attempt finishing it.

Thanks e1 very informative

 

It has been quite a few years since I bought it, and I can't remember where I got it.

The 5 lb spool says Ames Metal Products, 1/4" lead, wire solder.  It is solid.

I'm sorry I can't help with where I got it, but I'm sure you can google it and find it.

I predrill 1/4" holes, and the wire slips into them nicely.  Once I've gotten the ballast right, I anchor it with some runny super glue that wicks down into the hole once the wire is in place.  I haven't had any come loose yet, and I'm down to the last 30"  of that 5 lb roll.

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