Having trouble with stencils for crankbaits

[Land]

I have been airbrushing crankbaits for a few months now. I have gotten some of the basics down with free handing some baits. My problem is when I try to put a stencil on the crank it seems that I chip and scratch of the base coats of paint when I remove the stencil. I am using createx water based paints. I heat dry between each coat but I still seem to knock off some of the paint when I touch it with a stencil. What could be some possible reasons this is happening. 

[21xdc]

You are using too much paint, And probably spraying to close with too much pressure.   

Edited December 21, 2018 by 21xdc

[desertbird]

what kind of stencil are you using?

[Land]

I am using stencils that I have made to fit the baits. I’ve even tried using vanilla folders and just cut a Shad kill dot design in it. When I place the folder on to bait I’ll paint the dot but when I move paper away from bait the dot looks good but I have removed some of the paint and i barely touch the bait with the folder. It’s like the paint from the previous coat are not adhering properly maybe. 

[desertbird]

did you clean the bait with some alcohol to remove any mold release agents/oils before applying paint?

[mark poulson]

I had the same problem when I used (cheap) commercial stencils that were made from hard plastic.

I make my own, using the clear tops of salsa and margarine tubs, and hold them in place by hand while I spray.  The plastic is soft enough not to scratch the paint, and I can control how hard I hold the stencil much better than one that's clamped on.

I'm sure that the better stencils out there don't scratch, but I'm cheap, so the stencils I tried (cheap) did scratch.

[bigblue2]

3 hours ago, mark poulson said:

I had the same problem when I used (cheap) commercial stencils that were made from hard plastic.

I make my own, using the clear tops of salsa and margarine tubs, and hold them in place by hand while I spray.  The plastic is soft enough not to scratch the paint, and I can control how hard I hold the stencil much better than one that's clamped on.

I'm sure that the better stencils out there don't scratch, but I'm cheap, so the stencils I tried (cheap) did scratch.

try grafix  9+12" 25 sheets clear-lay plastic film from blick art supplys works very well for stencils!

[Land]

5 hours ago, desertbird said:

did you clean the bait with some alcohol to remove any mold release agents/oils before applying paint?

I do use alcohol wipes. But they are a generic brand that is used for first thinking it may have something to do with that maybe. Im going to try some different alcohol. And thanks everyone for the responses. I really appreciate the help. 

[Saugerman]

If you keep having that problem, shoot some of the createx clear over the base coat.  It dries fast , then use your stencil.

[Brick Steel]

I read some advise on this  forum a while back which I think was very helpful. When I make my stencils, I take extra care to remove any plastic burrs from the inside of the stencil.  For many stencils, I use a Dremel tool to cut them, which can leave burrs. I’ll sand them with steel wool and also use an Exacto knife to remove burrs. I also prefer to do my stenciling as an interim step, so I can cover up any marring with subsequent layers of paint. I also found that stencils that are too form fitting can cause marring even without burrs. I trimmed those stencils down to reduce the rubbing that occurs taking them on and off.