F&R

Perfect D2T Finish??

15 posts in this topic

How do you get a perfectly smooth finish with D2T without tiny little particles protruding through the surface? I can’t tell what these little bits of contamination are. And I can’t tell they are there until the epoxy starts to cure on the bait.  I clean everything well, use new brushes, new mixing containers, a clean mixing stick, tack cloth the bait and have no dust in the shop. I’m very frustrated. I’ve had the same issue with brushing on Diamond Coat using the the ‘tap the can’ method.  The only way I can get a perfect finish is by the old tried and true  method of dipping the bait in various MCU products. But, like a lot of you guys, I’m tired of dealing with the MCU problem of curing in the can after exposure to the atmosphere. I’m trying to convert to D2T to get a more durable finish on my flat sided balsa baits. Any ideas would be sincerely appreciated. 

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It might be residue in your brushes, even though they are new.  Try "washing" them in denatured alcohol before you use them, and then blow compressed air across them to dry them and get rid of any loose stuff.

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Prob not your prob but make sure the epoxy is 80-90* in this weather. Add 6 drops 100% pure acetone per 20g total epoxy (that's like enough to clear a 1.5 squarebill. By thinning it you will have to turn the bait by and every 10 min for an hour or so.

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I don’t know if you do any bait sanding near where you clear coat. You should try to set up your curing rack as far away as possible from where you are doing any sanding. Sanding, especially with a power sander, creates dust which will suspend in air for a while. I think the heat given off during the epoxy curing attracts some dust.  I have a white bait that had some tiny reddish brown specks in the clear coat that must have come western red cedar I had sanded the day before.

I don’t have a sander with a dust collection setup.  I try to sand outside with my sander on a portable work bench. In the winter if it is too cold to sand outside, I sand in the shop doorway with my belt sander pointed outside so most of the dust blows out.

You can try to minimize dust by periodic vacuuming of work area surfaces including shelves and walls, or use Swiffer dusters. Make sure your shop-vac has a dust collection filter or bag so you just aren’t blowing dust around the room.  I know it's a pain to do cleaning. Maybe try putting a canopy or shelf just above the curing rack to prevent dust falling on it. After sanding, try waiting a few days before clear coating.

You could trying mixing a small batch of epoxy in a small plastic container in a clean room, lay something across the top. It won’t be an airtight seal but should keep out dust. This way you could see if the epoxy you have is bad. I have run into epoxy that was bad from the store. I have also ruined a new package of D2T by leaving it in my car on a very cold night. After you clear some baits, pour any excess epoxy into a disposable container and cover like above. Pop the epoxy out of the container when it’s cured. You will have a clear specimen to look at and compare to the lures to see if it is air-borne dust.

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Thanks you guys. Those are all helpful ideas. I’ll try them ASAP. I’m always impressed by the generous sharing of knowledge and experience from the TU members. 

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Pictures of the bait, if you can get good pictures of the top coat, will help.     

Bristles are too easy to see and would easily be removed during top coatings.  Bubbles never resulted in a finish that I think of as protruding particles as usually just the opposite  with little smooth craters/dimples. 

 

 

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I never really get bubbles in the Epoxy but these on the bottom showed up the other day. Not as obvious in person.

 

DSCN0347a.JPG

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No they’re definitely not bubbles. I’ve checked with a magnifying glass. On closer inspection they look like tiny bits of dried/ cured epoxy. I’m going to try to strain both epoxy parts through a paint strainer before mixing the next time I clear a bait. Maybe there are particles in the bottle. I’m not sure I’ll be successful though because of the high viscosity. 

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I don’t think it’s contaminated epoxy if it only shows up on one area of your bait.  And you could see it in the resin or the hardener before you mixed it.  The problem more often is dried bits of epoxy being shed by your brush, or other debris in the brush.

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I have observed what you are seeing in the past once based on your newest description.     It was with some Gorilla Glue Epoxy being used on a wood working project.   I first thought it was my mixing (however never had this occur with the D2T 5 or 30 minute) so mixed some more and still had it happen.  Very minimal amount of the product would quickly cure and was granular in nature. 

I chalked it up to degradation/contaminant in the initial product; likely slightly different related chemical  pre/polymer in the epoxide portion or potentially small impurity in the "hardener portion" that chemical reacts at different rate with the product.  Either way based on the amount of epoxy I had used in the past  just chucked it.

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Well I’m a dummy.. After very close inspection on my latest baits I find the “particles” are in fact tiny bubbles. Vodkaman you were right. I suspect I am not allowing thr Creatix/ Wicked paint jobs to dry and cure long enough. How long do you guys allow for this? Are there other bubble eliminating tips besides thinning, gentle mixing and warming?

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I will add this tip.

After you are sure your baits are dry.

When I use Devcon 2 ton I use 30 min. I stick each bottle (Part A and Part B ) seperately in to a solo cup and run hot tap water in the cup- let sit a few minutes then mix. I do this with etex as well.

For me it goes on really smooth and never any bubbles.

Regards,

Blades   

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1 hour ago, bladesandbaits said:

I will add this tip.

After you are sure your baits are dry.

When I use Devcon 2 ton I use 30 min. I stick each bottle (Part A and Part B ) seperately in to a solo cup and run hot tap water in the cup- let sit a few minutes then mix. I do this with etex as well.

For me it goes on really smooth and never any bubbles.

Regards,

Blades   

You can also put the two plastic bottles in the microwave for a few seconds to get them warm.  When the components are more fluid, they are ready to use.  Because they aren't mixed yet, the heat won't affect the final product.

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