Yak_addict_785

3D eye application

21 posts in this topic

I was just curious to see what adhesive you all recommend for applying 3D eyes onto swim jigs. I've been using BSI 30 minute slow cure and it seems to work well but I would like to find something that doesn't take so long to set up. Thanks in advance

-Alec

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If you put a strip of masking tape down on your work surface, you can put a drop of super glue down on it, and then use an opened paper clip to dip into the glue, and then spread a little in the eye socket.  I usually do two baits at a time.  The glue won't set that fast, so I have time to place the eyes.  My topcoat holds them in place, and clear nail polish adds an additional layer of protection.

Once you've used up all the clean parts of the masking tape, just peel it off and lay down a fresh strip.

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If my eyes won't stick then I use super glue to hold them on.

I normally buy the WTP eyes from Barlow's and they stick pretty darn well on their own.

but there are occasions when they just don't want to stick do to my paint job or if I'm using up some of those cheaper eyes I bought years ago.

I like the jell superglues with the super fine tip which make it really easy to apply.

I always top coat mine with epoxy.

I was using d2t for several years but now I'm using Alumi UV.

It's a bit spendy but it goes a long ways and I built a UV light box that cures them fairly quickly.

I've got a 50 watt LED that sits on top of a light box which is basically just a plastic storage tote with a hole cut in the lid for the UV ligh.  The entire inside is coated with foil tape to reflect the light all around and I drilled holes and placed all thread near the top so that I can hang the jig's from it and do multiple jigs at a time.

This cuts down drastically on the time waiting for the epoxy to cure.

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I was originally covering my eyes with clear coat jig paint, but that was taking way too long to dry. I have since gone to clear nail polish, like cadman said, and haven't looked back. I haven't had any problems with eyes popping out or anything and its dry in a handful of minutes.

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There a lot of things that work. For you guys that use zap a gap or Loc-tite Gel Glue, do you get any white powdery residue after it dries? I used to use Loc-Tite gel for weedguards, and would always have white powder residue around the weedguard hole and up the weedguard strands. If this is still the case, then I'm sure there would be white residue around the eye socket as well.

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Cadman the only time I get the white residue is if I have gel glue that gets outside from under the eye and then it gets epoxy over that.

If I'm careful and I'm using the gel glue with the fine/ultra fine tip I generally don't get a lot of seepage coming out from under the eye because it's pretty precise in it's application.

The thing is with the Jell glues is the finer the tip the less glue you get per bottle for about the same price.

So you want to use the minimum amount of super glue. Just enough to hold the eye on but not so much it seeps out around the edges.

So there's kind of this trade off the finer tip is easier to apply smaller amounts of glue but it cost you more for the same amount of glue.

Say I'm doing a large saltwater jigs with 9/16 size eyes it's it's a little easier to work with as a small amount of glue in the center leaves plenty of the outer part of the eye to cover up the glue.

But when using small eyes on small freshwater jigs it's nicer to have the smaller tip as it's much easier to over apply the glue and get seepage from the smaller eyes.

 

At least this has been my experience.

Edited by Kasilofchrisn
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the white powdery substance could be from the super glue reacting to your body oils. The process of super glue fuming has long been used to develop fingerprints. A quick wipe down of the jig with a clean cloth before installing the weedguard usually takes care of the problem.

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5 hours ago, Basseducer said:

 

the white powdery substance could be from the super glue reacting to your body oils. The process of super glue fuming has long been used to develop fingerprints. A quick wipe down of the jig with a clean cloth before installing the weedguard usually takes care of the problem.

Basseducer,

    I use rubber gloves when I was using Loc-Tite. What I did find was that if I put a small fan on the jigs while they were drying, I didn't get the white powder. I think I heard that from the hardbaits forum. The fan is blowing air on the loct-tite as the chemical flashes off  leaving it without any powder. However I do not want to screw around with that, so I don't do that process anymore.

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1 hour ago, LimpNoodle said:

I've never had that problem with Zap-A-Gap.

 

I will give this a try, especially for eyes, which would eliminate the need for epoxy.  If I happen to put on too much and it oozes out, does Zap a Gap dry clear?

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I only seem to have problems with the white stuff coming from my super glue if it comes out and come in contact with my D2T.

If all of the super glue stays underneath the eye I don't have any issues.

At least that's been my experience.

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2 hours ago, Kasilofchrisn said:

I only seem to have problems with the white stuff coming from my super glue if it comes out and come in contact with my D2T.

If all of the super glue stays underneath the eye I don't have any issues.

At least that's been my experience.

I've found that, with using super glue for eyes, less is more.  I just wet the center part of eye recess with the tip of my wire applicator and then position the eye.  Too much glue is far worse than too little.

For me, the glue just holds the eyes in position until the topcoat can cover and anchor them, and it doesn't take much to do that.  If I am using a thin topcoat,  like a spray acrylic, I'll go over the eyes with clear nail polish, once the topcoat has cured out.

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47 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

I've found that, with using super glue for eyes, less is more.  I just wet the center part of eye recess with the tip of my wire applicator and then position the eye.  Too much glue is far worse than too little.

For me, the glue just holds the eyes in position until the topcoat can cover and anchor them, and it doesn't take much to do that.  If I am using a thin topcoat,  like a spray acrylic, I'll go over the eyes with clear nail polish, once the topcoat has cured out.

 

Mark,

   I have also experienced when using Loc-tite gel  on my jigs, that it has an adverse  effect on my powder painted jigs. I recall putting my 3d eyes with loc-tite gel  on my jig and the powder paint started to get soft. It seemed like the gel was softening the paint making it almost gooey. From that time on I haven't used it since for eyes. I'll have to re-visit this again sometime.

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Ted,

I've used several different super glues on my powder coated swim jig and spinnerbait heads, and had no issues.  I use Pro Tec powder paint.

I bake my baits in my toaster oven for 30 minutes at 350, and then let them hang inside with the oven off and the door ajar until they're cool enough to touch.

After I glue on the eyes, once the glue has set, I use a coat or two of clear nail polish to lock them in, depending on how smoothly they seat.

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