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nwbass

Sprung Split Rings

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I'm trying to make some bladed jigs.

I saw people recommending size 2 split rings, so I got them. They were pretty tough to attach to the blade and once attached, they were sprung.

So, I ordered some size 3. They go on easier, but are also sprung.

I am using standard gauge nickel plated spring steel from Barlow's Tackle.

I'm using some medium size Beadsmith brand split ring pliers I also got from Barlow's Tackle.

I sent an email to Barlow's and they said these are the exact components they use with no trouble.

I just tried 10 more. I cannot imagine anybody getting one of these on without springing it.

I am opening the split ring just enough to get it on the blade. I even tried squeezing them closed as I rotate them on.

They're not stretched way open, but you can definitely slide a piece of paper into the gap.

I don't know what else to do. Any suggestions?

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The blades you're referring to are they spinnerbait blades or blades used for a chatterbait type of blade? If they are the chatterbait type blades those are easy to put on. I have one solution for you. Open the split ring enough to get the blade hole started at the end of the split ring about an 1/8". Once you have it started, do not use the split ring pliers to keep opening the split ring. Use the pliers to maneuver the split ring around the blade. One other thing when putting on blades on split rings, it is easier to put the blades with the blade parallel to the ring and not perpendicular to the split ring. By doing it this way, you are not stretching the split ring throughout the whole travel of the blade you are trying to get on. Does this make sense?

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Here are images of what I'm doing.

1 - I'm just opening the split ring enough to get onto the blade.

2 - I am putting the end of the split ring to the hole in the blade.

3 - I am gently rotating the split ring onto the blade with small needle nose pliers. I am NOT opening the split ring any more than what the blade is in the image.

4 - Sprung.

5 - Take a deep breathe and try not to break stuff. :censored:

Where am I going wrong?

sr01.jpg

sr02.jpg

sr03.jpg

sr04.jpg

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That looks normal for standard split rings being opened to that gap. You'll need to go to the heavy duty 3x rings to get ones that stay completely closed in that situation. I'm not sure how the thicker rings would affect the action of the lure though, or if it would at all. 

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11 hours ago, nwbass said:

Here are images of what I'm doing.

sr02.jpg

 

sr04.jpg

 

Well you are doing exactly what I do and what I was trying to explain in my post. Unfortunately, what you have is the nature of a cheaper split ring. Like mentioned above, go to a heavier ring or look for a different supplier. I would try a 2x first, because the heavier you go, the thicker the split ring, and it may not fit or function in the little hole it is supposed to go in.

Edited by cadman
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A question to go along with this that may also affect which split rings I should get:

After powder coating, it's even harder to get these split rings onto the eye of my jigs than onto these blades.

Do I need to keep powder paint off the eye if I'm going to be making bladed jigs?

Is so, could you recommend the easiest way to do that?

Any split ring recommendations would be great too. Is there any reason not to go up to a size 4?

Thanks for all the help.

Edited by nwbass

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I use my split ring pliers to remove the powdercoat at the split ring hole before I bake them, so it doesn't make me open my split rings up too much.  I use heavy duty split rings from Barlow's.

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I get the same split rings and I will get one that has it happen maybe 1 in 15 or so. I normally don't have it happen on the blade, it is usually when I'm going onto the hook eye that it will happen. Now this is going to sound stupid but try it and see if it helps. I noticed this happens more when I get it started and then work it all the way around in which it takes 5 or 6 movements. If I get the split ring started and then take my pliers and hold the ring as far back as I can go and make 1 or 2 big rotations for the ring to go on it almost never gets sprung open. The same thing for the hook eye, it takes a bit to get it down but that really helped, it seemed the longer it takes to get it on the more apt it is to stay open. As for putting it on the hook eye, you will do better by cleaning the paint off the eye and I have a way to help with that. I sacrificed a spinnerbait hook to do this a long time ago and I still use the same hook to this day. I use a 5/0 hook that is too big to go all the way through the hook eye but still goes far enough in that it will help clear the eye. I put the point in as far as it will go and I work it back and forth until the paint falls off, it doesn't take that long.

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Smalljaw - I think you are right. In the early days I used to suffer sprung rings a lot. But, as my ring technique improved, the problem went away. Speed is always my motivation, I considered the ring assembly a challenge, to get the ring on with as few movements as possible.

You also stated that it might 'sound stupid', and I agree. From an engineering point of view, it is a Young's modulus thing; exceed the bending limit and spring-back is incomplete. But it seems that time of stress is also relevant but I didn't think that such a short time would be significant. Obviously IT IS! I never did figure out why I had so many failures and none now, so thanks.

Another thing that might improve the assembly is heat. I am not talking about using a flame as you might disturb the temper of the steel. I am suggesting gripping the ring with the split ring pliers without opening, dunking in boiling water for 5 seconds, then perform the assembly. If a few seconds make a difference, this may buy you a few more seconds. It won't cost anything to try.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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I've tried putting them on faster with less movements. I put them in boiling water for 30 seconds. I put them in a 300 degree oven. Same results.

I've tried 30-40 now. There is absolutely no way to open them less than I am.

Is there a way to tell the difference between stainless and spring steel? Maybe I got the wrong ones.

If somebody who uses these same split rings wants to prove me wrong, I'll send you some. Smalljaw?

I am dumbfounded here.

I guess I'll order a variety of split rings and see which ones work for me.

If that doesn't work, maybe I'll use paperclips...

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Nwbass - Well, it does sound as though you have touched all the bases. I don't think they make SS rings, the material just wouldn't work.

If your assembly speed is good (15 secs), then it is time to move on to other manufacturers and sizes. I can't think of any more ideas to try!

Dave

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To me it looks like your technique is good but the split rings may not be the best quality. I would call worth and see either what they recommended as they make all manner of split rings and supply many tackle mfgs. with split rings. Good American made split rings using good spring steel, stainless, and other finishes. You won’t be disappointed. Here’s a link.

https://lurecomponents.worthco.com/products/split-rings

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I use the exact split rings you are using, take your time and get some experience, yes you will spring a few till you get used to the exact point where they spring.

smalljaw and Vodkaman are spot on IMO, so sit back toss a couple of cold ones back and pay attention to every movement you make and take note of what sprung the split ring, I am not saying it is easy at first but it will get easier with practice. 

once you have the leading part of the split ring in the hole, use needle nose pliers to turn it till you get it completely on, pay attention to not spreading the split ring. the toughest part for me is getting the leading edge of the split started in the slit. 

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3 hours ago, Vodkaman said:

Nwbass - Well, it does sound as though you have touched all the bases. I don't think they make SS rings, the material just wouldn't work.

If your assembly speed is good (15 secs), then it is time to move on to other manufacturers and sizes. I can't think of any more ideas to try!

Dave

They sell stainless steel split rings that are the exact same size as the spring steel ones. I feel they may have sent me the wrong ones.

I am under 15 seconds, no problem. I ordered three more varieties. Fingers crossed...

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57 minutes ago, Apdriver said:

To me it looks like your technique is good but the split rings may not be the best quality. I would call worth and see either what they recommended as they make all manner of split rings and supply many tackle mfgs. with split rings. Good American made split rings using good spring steel, stainless, and other finishes. You won’t be disappointed. Here’s a link.

https://lurecomponents.worthco.com/products/split-rings

Thanks. If the ones in the mail don't work, that will be my next stop.

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36 minutes ago, azsouth said:

I use the exact split rings you are using, take your time and get some experience, yes you will spring a few till you get used to the exact point where they spring.

smalljaw and Vodkaman are spot on IMO, so sit back toss a couple of cold ones back and pay attention to every movement you make and take note of what sprung the split ring, I am not saying it is easy at first but it will get easier with practice. 

once you have the leading part of the split ring in the hole, use needle nose pliers to turn it till you get it completely on, pay attention to not spreading the split ring. the toughest part for me is getting the leading edge of the split started in the slit. 

I appreciate the help, but I think you're wrong. As stated previously, I am doing exactly what you're suggesting.

I get the split ring onto the blade, then I take small needle nose pliers and gently wind the split ring on. It is absolutely physically impossible to keep the gap any smaller. It is only open as far as the blade holds it open.

If you send me your address, I'd love to send you some. Same goes for anybody else who uses these same split rings.

I just cannot imagine somebody getting these on without the same results. I think I got the wrong ones. I'd like to know if I'm wrong.

 

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8 hours ago, nwbass said:

Do I need to keep powder paint off the eye if I'm going to be making bladed jigs?

NWbass, the best way I have found to keep powder paint off the eye of a hook is to wrap Teflon plumbers tape around the eye, heat the jig and powder paint it. I use a fluid bed mostly. Then remove the Teflon tape BEFORE you heat set the powder paint. It’s a bit tedious because the Teflon is so thin but with a bit of practice you figure out a technique. I like to keep the powder off my bladed jig eyes as Well. I don’t like cleaning the powder off but prefer to keep it off.

 

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12 minutes ago, Apdriver said:

NWbass, the best way I have found to keep powder paint off the eye of a hook is to wrap Teflon plumbers tape around the eye, heat the jig and powder paint it. I use a fluid bed mostly. Then remove the Teflon tape BEFORE you heat set the powder paint. It’s a bit tedious because the Teflon is so thin but with a bit of practice you figure out a technique. I like to keep the powder off my bladed jig eyes as Well. I don’t like cleaning the powder off but prefer to keep it off.

 

if your looking for a permanent fix solder or braze with a light butane torch but heat enough to melt the solder or brazing rod. 

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5 minutes ago, bigblue2 said:

if your looking for a permanent fix solder or braze with a light butane torch but heat enough to melt the solder or brazing rod. 

bigblue2, you lost me. We are discussing bladed jigs and split rings. Are you referring to solid rings?

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37 minutes ago, Apdriver said:

NWbass, the best way I have found to keep powder paint off the eye of a hook is to wrap Teflon plumbers tape around the eye, heat the jig and powder paint it. I use a fluid bed mostly. Then remove the Teflon tape BEFORE you heat set the powder paint. It’s a bit tedious because the Teflon is so thin but with a bit of practice you figure out a technique. I like to keep the powder off my bladed jig eyes as Well. I don’t like cleaning the powder off but prefer to keep it off.

 

Thanks! I'll give it a try.

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A immediate solution that will allow you to use your existing stocks of rings; grind the blades to reduce the edge distance to the hole. Not a popular solution I am sure, but the blade is under no load to speak of, and this operation should not affect function.

Dave

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3 hours ago, azsouth said:

not wrong, just trying to help

Again, I appreciate the help. 

I believe you're able to attach your split rings with no problem.

I do not believe anybody is able to attach the split rings I have without springing them. I am convinced I ended up with stainless steel.

I'm doing exactly what your images show(and what my images show). I've tried more than 50 of them now. All sprung.

I'm moving on from them. Waiting on new ones to arrive.

Thanks again to everybody for all the help and suggestions!

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