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joe406

Clearasol storage

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I appreciate your patience with my basic questions.  I'm about to dip about 12 soft baits I painted and will be using Lureworks Clearasol.  If I have to mostly fill a 2 cup pyrex cup and use about 1/8 of a cup, what do I do with the rest?  Does the paint/soft plastic color bleed into the Clearasol?  If not, should I pour it back into the bottle or just sacrifice a cup and leave it there?  Will it yellow as I reheat it repeatedly and should I use stabilizer?  Thanks,

Joe

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I haven't tried that product, but, since you are going to dip your baits anyway, try it once and see how it works.

I would keep it separate, and do some experimenting.  Everyone's process is different, so you need to see how your process affects it

You can see if the paint affects it.

You can see if reheats affect it.

You can see if you can add it to other plastisol, or add color to it and pour baits with what's left.

You are only risking 2 cups of plastisol, so the potential loss is minimal, and chances are you can still use it for something.

A tip for dipping is to get a tall, thin dipping container, so you'll need less material to dip long baits.

Frank (Rooty Tootie) is the expert when it comes to dipping.

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4 hours ago, Flippinstick Mike said:

I found the a beaker (like from your days in science class) works well for this. It holds up to the heat & in tall & much more narrow than a pyrex cup. 

Thanks Mike.  I just ordered a beaker that is just over 4 inches tall and holds 3/4 of a cup.  Should fit the bill without wasting too much plastic.

Joe

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The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT    pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.

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1 hour ago, Bass-Boys said:

The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT    pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.

Yeah, thanks.  I realized what a stupid question that was after I thought about it, pouring it back in, if I could would be a disaster.  I tried dipping today in a narrow glass and it worked pretty well using less that 3/4 of a cup.  The bait colors didn't leak into it much so it should be good for a few more dips.

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6 hours ago, Bass-Boys said:

The Clearasol you use to dip the baits will firm up just like the swim bait.. DO NOT    pour it back in the bottle..After it cools it will be a chunk . Save it for the next time you dip . When ready to remelt cut it up into small chunks and add a little fresh to it and remelt then dip again.

This. Exactly.

I'm not sure exactly what would happen if you poured hot plastisol back into the bottle/jug/bucket...can't be good though....lol

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5 hours ago, joe406 said:

Yeah, thanks.  I realized what a stupid question that was after I thought about it, pouring it back in, if I could would be a disaster.  I tried dipping today in a narrow glass and it worked pretty well using less that 3/4 of a cup.  The bait colors didn't leak into it much so it should be good for a few more dips.

IMG_0860.JPG

What paints are you using? Guys that airbrush their baits don't generally talk about the paints bleeding into dipping plastic so maybe a different choice in paints could solve the bleed issue?

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7 hours ago, Elf said:

What paints are you using? Guys that airbrush their baits don't generally talk about the paints bleeding into dipping plastic so maybe a different choice in paints could solve the bleed issue?

I just use basic acrylic paint.  It doesn't have the fumes but is not as "permanent" I guess.  I'm still experimenting with the painting.  When you paint bloodline baits it ends up being a lot of steps and time consuming.

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I’ve had great success with the lureworks sb coat yes it is solvent based and it does smell but it’s no worst than the cooking plastic imho. Paint and hit with a sb clear coat and no need to dip. On a side note you can also do a lot of cool looking effect with sb clear coat and the pearl powders for making soft plastics .

AC2B0F60-9A5D-47EC-856F-161D4E282096.jpeg

1B42308C-5EFE-40FB-9B98-544B207FB10C.jpeg

Edited by wallyc14
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15 hours ago, wallyc14 said:

I’ve had great success with the lureworks sb coat yes it is solvent based and it does smell but it’s no worst than the cooking plastic imho. Paint and hit with a sb clear coat and no need to dip. On a side note you can also do a lot of cool looking effect with sb clear coat and the pearl powders for making soft plastics .

AC2B0F60-9A5D-47EC-856F-161D4E282096.jpeg

1B42308C-5EFE-40FB-9B98-544B207FB10C.jpeg

So is it necessary to sb clear coat after painting or only if you us the powders?  One thing I don't like about the Clearasol is that it adds another layer of plastic and the lures get kind of thick.  Yours look good.

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The top pick is clear coated with sb clear . No  technically you don’t have to clear with sb clear and it holds up ok however I do give it a coat of clear to make it hold up better . The bottom pic are dipped in plastisol . When i mix powders in with sb clear I don’t clear over it . It holds up fine. Another side note:-) you can also add  Color for plastisol to sb clear to get colors sb does not make ( see second pic) those are colors I made. What I generally do when I dip baits is get the plastic to about 340 then dip . The plastic is about as thin as it will get. I also agree I don’t like super thick baits but sometimes the fish like it! :-)

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Forgot to add that the heads are dipped to hold the eyes. As said above dipped at 340 degree plastic

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On 4/22/2019 at 2:32 PM, wallyc14 said:

I’ve had great success with the lureworks sb coat yes it is solvent based and it does smell but it’s no worst than the cooking plastic imho. Paint and hit with a sb clear coat and no need to dip. On a side note you can also do a lot of cool looking effect with sb clear coat and the pearl powders for making soft plastics .

AC2B0F60-9A5D-47EC-856F-161D4E282096.jpeg

1B42308C-5EFE-40FB-9B98-544B207FB10C.jpeg

I finally received and had time to try the SB paint.  I gave it time to cure (weeks) and it just rubs off with my thumb.  What gives?  There's no point in buying the expensive paint if I have to dip it anyway!  What am I doing wrong?TLQn4e9aRKO79OVPGEn6Pg.thumb.jpg.e0c4d3f6c25866b626911b14bb9ba352.jpg

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I’ve had my best success with fresh made baits. If they are baits that have been cured before painting )2-3 weeks I have found that I have to clean the baits with denatured alcohol before I painted them or the  baits would do just that.

Edited by wallyc14
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2 hours ago, wallyc14 said:

I’ve had my best success with fresh made baits. If they are baits that have been cured before painting )2-3 weeks I have found that I have to clean the baits with denatured alcohol before I painted them or the  baits would do just that.

Alright, well maybe that's it.  I didn't realize that longer curing would mess up the process.  I guess I will dip these to protect the paint that I put on.  Thanks for the help,

Joe

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The plastic exudes oil when they cure. If you don’t remove it the paint won’t stick. With fresh made baits they haven’t had a chance to start yet so.... 

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