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New paint on bait with existing paint
10 replies to this topic
Posted 30 October 2004 - 06:51 PM
I am extremely new to painting. I am wanting to start by repainting some of my store bought cranks. What I need to know is the correct process for doing this. Do I have to sand or remove the existing paint? Do I then have to prime the bait? If so, with what? Is Kilz in the aerosol can OK? Can I then Paint them with acrylic paint? Is Devcon 2-ton epoxy OK to clear coat with? What is the average drying time for this paint? Any help would be great. Thanks alot guys.
Posted 30 October 2004 - 08:03 PM
Do I have to sand or remove the existing paint?
You have to sand no matter what, and wheather or not you completely remove is up to you, some paints on factory baits if not removed cause other paint problems (some cleared baits are bad about this)
Do I then have to prime the bait?
Yes it is necessary to have primer for several reasons (not listing them)
If so, with what? Is Kilz in the aerosol can OK?
Not sure haven't tried that one
Can I then Paint them with acrylic paint?
yes you can, others on the board do and can offer more info on it than me, i use autoair by createx
Is Devcon 2-ton epoxy OK to clear coat with?
Yes be sure and read up on it, need to hand turn them until they set or make a lure dryer. (dont use the 5 minute stuff)What is the average drying time for this paint?
Overnight should allow enough time to dry before clearing (but again not my paint so someone can confirm)Any help would be great. Thanks alot guys.
Your welcome feel free to ask if you need more help
Posted 31 October 2004 - 12:21 PM
Thanks cullin8s. This may be a dumb question as well, but bear in mind that I have yet to paint anything with my compressor and gun. Is there a certain range of air pressure that is a good starting point? I'm sure that once I become familiar with different paints and the niche's of my equipment I will figure this out, I just need a good starting point. Thanks again.
Posted 31 October 2004 - 12:36 PM
thats a preference thing but i use between 30 and 40 lbs usually with water based paints, much less with urethanes
Posted 31 October 2004 - 04:36 PM
For a Primer I use a Rust Oleum Product from Home Depot, its a couple dollars for a spray can. Its called Painters Touch Its a sandable primer for Wood, Metal Wicker and Crafts. I bought it cause it sounded as if it covers all the bases, and was easy to get. I have had no problems with it as well. I havent tried the Kilz product either.
For water based paints like Createx I usually shoot at around 20 to 30 PSI on my air compressor. I rarely go over that OR need to go over that for the water based paints. Cody
Posted 01 November 2004 - 10:04 AM
Re: refinishing store bought lures, take some 100-150 grit sandpaper and lightly scratch up the surface to gain better paint adherence, no real need to take it down past the paint unless there are strong blemishes in the bait itself ...unless you just like to sand for no reason
Posted 01 November 2004 - 11:06 AM
I have tried numerous primers and I am happiest with Painter's Touch. I am sure the other products are fine in the right hands, but Painter's Touch has been the easiest for me to work with.
Posted 01 November 2004 - 11:46 AM
Thanks alot fellas. This info should greatly increase my learning curve and cut out some costly(both time and money) trial and error. This website is an invaluable resource to beginners thanks to people like yourselves. Thanks again.
Posted 01 November 2004 - 01:01 PM
Whatever kind of primer you decide on, don't try and cover the bait all at once 2-3 thin coats is better than one heavy coat unless you like to sand.
Air pressure: wide range of air being used on this site. I use 25 psi tops, but I shoot a different type paint. The best advice I can give you since you are just starting out with an air brush is: Get a piece of scrap wood or better yet a large piece of cardboard and play with the brush and different psi. This will save a bunch of of swearing, not all but some.
Most guys here use the # 3 needle, I happen to like the # 1 needle. If you would tell us what kind of paint you will be using, it would help.
plenty of talk about this onn the site, use the search feature. DO NOT stir / mix with wood, and make sure you get the Devcon 2 ton NOT the 5 minute kind.
In fishing it is said nothing beats time on the water. The same thing holds true for air brushing. The more you use it the better you will become. Trial and error, and heavy on the error.
Posted 01 November 2004 - 02:21 PM
I am starting out with Testors acrylic paints. It is just the easiest stuff to find. I plan on experimenting with different paints, this is just what I found first. I have got the Devcon 2 ton epoxy so I think I'm in good shape there. I have been reading up on the intricacies of using it. I have purchased a rotisserie motor and am in the process of constructing a drying wheel. I just need to run some paint thru the gun and get some experience. Thanks again for the great advice. I appreciate it.
Posted 01 November 2004 - 04:48 PM
Bigfish,one of the best ways to get used to your gun and how paint goes on (no matter the kind)is to get some 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch diameter pvc from the retail outlet of your choice.
Cut it in to 3 to 4 inch lengths
Drill a small hole through the top (in one side out the other),and fasion a hanger of wire to the pvc. This will serve as a hanger to hang the pipe for drying after painting.
The pipe will help you get used to airbrushing paint on a cylindrical surface (most lures have these features)
Try out diffirent colors and exp. with how one blends with the other.
Try to copy some simple paint schemes from some baits.
If you foul up, then just wipe the paint of the pvc and start over.Pvc is white and thats the base that most jobs start with.
To prep the pvc just steel wool it then wash it off with hot water and make sure it is dry
If you use laquer or urethane base paints then clean the used pipe with thinner and start over
If you use water base then steel wool and panit white again.You can figure it out
I would not start out with Testors Paint,I would get some water base like Createx to start out with.(yes you guys,I did reccomend some water base paint ) Some Testors requires solvents to clean up and Ive probably "HUFFED" enough fumes for all of us.
But seriously, solvent based paints are a whole nother ball game and require a lot of ventilation and personal protection.This can be agravating to try first.
Finally search,search,search this data base here.These guys are the best you will ever get info from.When your sitting in your chair at home(if you have a computer)then read all the post you can concerning this topic.I promose you you can find something to build your knowledge.Dont be afraid to post a pic every now and then and ask for opinions.These guys are as honest as they come.Good luck.