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Etex conditions

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I am having trouble getting the Etex curing on lures. Never had this issue b4.  I work in the basement. We bought a dehumidifier that brought the number from 71 to the mid 40’s.   Is this critical?  I wipe down the pieces with an alcohol swab before applying.  I wear gloves as well.  To keep oils from affecting the coating.  I still get spots where it has pulled away from a spot. Very troubling.  Should I sand off epoxy and start again?

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I've had E tex pull away from sharp edges.  I stopped that by coating the sharp edges with D2T, out 1/4" past the edge for lap, and the coat the rest of the bait with E tex, lapping it onto the 1/4" strip of D2T.  Try coating the bare spots with D2T, and then recoat the whole bait with E tex.

 

I had problems with E tex not curing when I didn't mix it enough, or let it sit for 10 minutes after mixing.  I think letting it sit allows the two parts to bond completely.

This is what the tech at E tex told me when I call them  You can apply a second coat of E tex over the first one that had the uncured stuff, and it will cure out the uncured stuff as the second top coat cures.  That way you save the bait.

I hope this helps.

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I already have two coats on it, of Etex.  Don’t want to do a third.  Sanding some off wonts help, just the tacky areas?   I let both parts sit in the mixing cup for a few after mixing.  I’ve read that it won’t run as much this way. What do you think of this?

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If you have tacky areas, there are 3 possible causes.  A bad batch of epoxy, not measuring exactly enough, and not mixing well enough.  Of the 3, mixing problems is the most prevalent.  You can let Etex sit for 15 minutes before application if you want a thicker coating.  Your humidity is not a problem as epoxy is formulated for a nominal 70 degrees and 50% humidity.  Etex is good stuff but it contains solvents to thin it and promote bubble expulsion, which makes it more prone to fisheyes than other epoxies.

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Just a suggestion.  try thinning etex with denatured alcohol for the first coat just a little then when cured normal second coat.

I put my lures in a hot box for curing. I do mine in a basement best time is winter for me nice and dry. My humidity gets down to 35% now in the summer its 60 to 70% that's why I use a hot box gets just to 90 degrees.

Wayne

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Etex doesn't dissolve water based paints, so it can be applied directly over Createx or any other water based airbrush paints.  If you're going to thin it with denatured alcohol, be sure and mix the two parts thoroughly before you add the alcohol.  Any unmixed components with bond to the alcohol instead of the other components.

 

Edited by mark poulson
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Guys usually start painting baits by applying a color basecoat, a heavily pigmented white or sometimes black paint whose purpose is to hide wood grain and give the later paint an even, consistent background.  Paint jobs are built from the bottom up. If you have a problem after the paint is applied, you need to fix it before applying the paint.

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I always applied my Etex after the lure was mounted on my turner.   

Once I got the epoxy on the bait, I would turn it on and let it turn for a few minutes, and then stop and check for buildups, drips, and missing epoxy.

I would correct stuff, using a semi-dry brush to remove any excess, and then turn it back on and let it go again for a few minutes.

I would repeat until I thought it looked right, and then I'd let it turn all night.

It took me a few baits to get the process right.

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