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I’m more into rod building and pouring soft plastics. That’s what I’ve been doing now for awhile. But I started building some buttcaps out of epoxy resin and got to thinking I can build me some spooks. 

 

Not that it’s particularly required on a resin cast spook but I’m thinking I’m going to build a wire through spook with a single knocker. I’m thinking  reasonably large tungsten ball in a aluminum tube? This would both act as weight transfer to improve casting and create ballast. I’m hoping to mount the system forward enough to get a glide on the spook. I’d like to do a few different sizes over time as well. I think it’s got potential to work out well. 

 

Any input would be appreciated. Im going to hopefully start on building a positive for the mold today after work. 

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I’ve only made walking baits from wood but I’ve placed the ballast more towards the tail end.  No exact measurements but approximately 2/3 of the total length.  

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Moving weights in a spook is going to be problematic unless you use a steel ball and a magnet. Spooks should fly well anyway with their traditional weighting.

I am currently designing a shifting weight lure, but I have a deep body and gravity in my favour.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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6 hours ago, Vodkaman said:

Moving weights in a spook is going to be problematic unless you use a steel ball and a magnet. Spooks should fly well anyway with their traditional weighting.

I am currently designing a shifting weight lure, but I have a deep body and gravity in my favour.

Dave

As mentioned no real need for weight transfer as you can cast a spook as further than you need most of the times. 

They are also tail weighted  so no need to transfer weight on the cast.   It also isn't a crank bait that needs the weight transferred forward to achieve proper action.  Just the opposite in fact as if the weight shifts towards the mid section as action is killed.    Even if you place a weight transfer system in a spook the walking action puts the weight in tail.  No way to move it forward unless you nose weight the lure so when paused it shift nose down.

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That’s what I’ve been thinking today as well. So I’m thinking I’ll probably weight the lure with a big single tungsten or steel ball in a short tube just to get the noise and call it a day. 

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I have had some spooks that were modified with some shot in the main body cavity.  Never found it any better.

I had some older spooks and they were weighted with a cylindrical lead plug in the tail on those.  Most of the modern spooks have a large steel ball in the tail end that is either held in place or molded into  a larger cavity in the tail section. 

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I’m not to big on the silent spooks. The noise seems to make a big difference to me. The one knocker stuff I have seems to work the best though. So it’s finding a way to replicate that cavity without splitting the bait.

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I would have a small tube chamber with 3 - 4 small steel balls in the front end for making the noise. I would fix the rear weight as that is the critical balance.

Dave

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