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Chonch12

Base Coasts and Clear Coat Questions

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Hello,

I am rather new to painting and lure building in general. I learned so many great tips on here, much appreciated. I recently was able to get my hands on a nice belt sander, just need to clean it up. Facebook Marketplace has been an incredible place for some cheap used power tools!  Also I was able to upgrade my paints from the super basic ones that came with my IWATA and compressor kit from Amazon. I bought a HUGE lot off of a former commercial artist who had a ton of Createx and Wicked paints brand new, I was very fortunate. He didn't want to break the lot and gave me everything he had. (FYI I listed a lot of Brand new bottles and sets in the classifieds since I don't need so many duplicates for what I paid which was pretty cheap)

This brings me to my question. In the box there was a large bottle of Wicked Transparent Base Paint. I have done a lot of reading and did not see anyone discuss using a transparent base coat. Everyone seemed to just use a basic White base coat. Is this necessary or have any real value to a wooden lure?

Even though it is listed as a "Base" would it be a bad idea to put this on after painting prior to the clear coat? or is that just a waste?

There was also 2 other bottles I was curious about. Wicked UV Glow Base and Wicked UV Glow White Base. From some research it seems these are to make things glow under Black light so my guess would be these are useless for lure painting?

One final question, and I apologize as I have not read too much about this but will research more, what is a decent clear coat? Is it best to dip as I have seen in videos like Marling Baits, or to spray or paint on a clear coat?

Thanks again, look forward to completing my first bait from wooden block to fully painted, clear coat and hardware.

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Uv base will fluoresce under uv light, including sunlight, if it is not masked by another paint.  Uv lures made a splash a couple of years ago.  Do they work?  I don’t know but it can’t hurt.  I don’t use clear bases but I think they are meant to be custom mixed with colors to make translucent paint, which many lure painters favor for layering colors.  As far as clearcoats go, you just walked into a minefield of opinions.  Personally I use two:  Dick Nite S81 Fishermun’s Lurecoat (a moisture cured urethane) and Devcon Two Ton slow cure epoxy.  There are other brands that are popular, notably KBS Diamond Coat MCU, Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX) epoxy.  I brush both the clearcoats so as not to waste them.  I suggest you read some of the many threads on clears to help you decide which is right for you.

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5 minutes ago, BobP said:

Uv base will fluoresce under uv light, including sunlight, if it is not masked by another paint.  Uv lures made a splash a couple of years ago.  Do they work?  I don’t know but it can’t hurt.  I don’t use clear bases but I think they are meant to be custom mixed with colors to make translucent paint, which many lure painters favor for layering colors.  As far as clearcoats go, you just walked into a minefield of opinions.  Personally I use two:  Dick Nite S81 Fishermun’s Lurecoat (a moisture cured urethane) and Devcon Two Ton slow cure epoxy.  There are other brands that are popular, notably KBS Diamond Coat MCU, Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX) epoxy.  I brush both the clearcoats so as not to waste them.  I suggest you read some of the many threads on clears to help you decide which is right for you.

Thank you for the reply. I didnt realize that was such a box of worms to open. I will do some more reading on here.

One question, what about sealing? Is super glue just the fastest, or can I use a decent poly dip that will seal it prior to painting. There is so much information on wood and painting but not much on sealing. 

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Sealing wood is critical, both to increase the durability of the bait and to prevent bubbles in later finish steps.  IMO, a strong waterproof sealer is desirable.  I use Devcon Two Ton epoxy 99% of the time and I lightly sand it and wipe the bait with denatured alcohol before painting.  

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Bob's right.  Either epoxy or, for me anyway, super glue will give both waterproofing and strength.

In my experience, transparent base is used to either thin paint so it's more transparent, or, the way I use it, to apply glitter to a finished paint scheme with a brush.

It is not a protective film layer, or a wood sealer to be used prior to painting.

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I like runny superglue, especially for lightweight woods like balsa. It soaks in and fixes the hairy surface, allowing it to be sanded to a smooth finish. A second coat is required to seal any areas that the sanding operation may have disturbed.

CA glue (super glue) dries fast, but I would still give it time. I am not a painter so I am just being cautious for you. I would be interested in any comments on time before painting after CA application.

Dave

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20 hours ago, Vodkaman said:

I like runny superglue, especially for lightweight woods like balsa. It soaks in and fixes the hairy surface, allowing it to be sanded to a smooth finish. A second coat is required to seal any areas that the sanding operation may have disturbed.

CA glue (super glue) dries fast, but I would still give it time. I am not a painter so I am just being cautious for you. I would be interested in any comments on time before painting after CA application.

Dave

What is CA super glue compared to sunny superglue?

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CA is cyanoacrylate glue. it is what Super glue is. CA comes in thick and runny versions. Some lure builders use thick for fixing hardware and eyes. I use runny CA for everything.

Dave

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On 10/11/2019 at 2:32 PM, Vodkaman said:

CA is cyanoacrylate glue. it is what Super glue is. CA comes in thick and runny versions. Some lure builders use thick for fixing hardware and eyes. I use runny CA for everything.

Dave

I use both the thin and the medium/gap filling glues, and use an accelerator to set the gap filling CA glue when I use it to position/hold hardware (thank you Rayburn Ben).

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