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fishordie79

Through Wire. Why and Why Not?

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Hey TU Folks! 

 I carved a jerk bait last night and while doing do was thinking about what hardware to install. I normally use 316L stainless steel wire to make my ow line ties and hook hangers and that is what I would normally do for a bait like this, but I got to thinking about through wire and why one may choose through wire over standard line ties. I know there are some builds that require through wire for logistical reasons (lipped lures come to mind) but would there be any practical reason for using through wire on something like a jerk bait? Maybe for added strength and stability when fishing for larger species? 

Edited by fishordie79
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I used to use thru-wire in balsa baits but switched to hand twisted hangers and line ties.  I fill drilled holes with slow cure epoxy before inserting them.  I can’t speak for others but I’ve never had a fish break a lure body or pull out any hardware, which are the only disasters a thru-wire can prevent.  If one ever does, I’ll thank that fish for the  experience and MAYBE think about thru-wiring again.  But I’m pretty sure my line will break or my trebles will fail before that happens.  If thru-wiring is done for convenience compared to other methods, that’s different.  But I don’t build large batches of baits and for me it’s just more work that I don’t see the utility for.

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@ravenlures @BobP Thanks for the replies! I too have yet to have a fish pull any of my hardware out so for me it is easier to use my own hand twisted hangers. I also fill the holes with slow cure epoxy and then insert the hardware and as I said I have had no issues. Just wanted to get other's take on it.

Thanks again!

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One of the other guys on here recommended using twist eyes and superglueing (CA glue) them in the holes.  I've done it with several lures, and can't pull the hooked out myself.  They have yet to be fish tested though, but it's a quick and easy method.  I'd love to hear from anyone else who has used this method, with good or bad results.

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I've had two big fish tear hooks out of lures (big muskies).  Luckily they were both in the net, the fish thrashes, it kinda gets hooked in the net and it puts a ton of torque on the hook occasionally.  I also wear a seatbelt, but have never gotten into an accident.   haha

To play devils advocate, I prefer to see thru wire lures (I really am only talking about bigger musky lures).  I especially prefer it when some lures go for 100$ plus dollars.  It's kinda like buying a Lambo with crank windows.  When you buy a premium hand made lures, I don't mind paying the price, but I like to see all the best features.  It's not the first fish or the tenth, it's after years of abuse, is that eye going to pull out?  Not on the most well made lures.  It makes the construction of a crankbait much more complicated!

There are good ways to install a screw eye, and probably bad ways.  Check out this video where he tests the pull out strength of different eyes.  Interesting

 

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So two things of note about the video. He tested the angled twist wires at 49 pounds using superglue to secure them. I use 5 minute epoxy so I assume that the pounds of force required to pull them free would be even greater. The biggest species I fish for with my lures are pike and although they can get large I don't see and haven't had one pull any of my twist wires free. That said this guy is in Florida and makes the valid point that if you are fishing for larger salt water species then through wire is the way to go. So I guess that every method has its advantages when implemented correctly. Thanks for sharing @eastman03!

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Yeah the epoxy twist eyes were super strong compared to the super glue. I think the first one broke at 139 pounds which is more than sufficient to suit my needs. What is really cool about this guy's videos is that he gives you the data needed to explain why and when your methods will work in certain situations. Once again thanks for sharing such useful and insightful content @eastman03.

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On 3/10/2020 at 2:03 PM, eastman03 said:

@mark poulson  happened to see this after searching for the old screw eye/thru wire debate.  I really like your idea of the swivel and the cross wire thru the wood.  Does the swivel spin after you glue it in? or do you glue it solid in place?

I always install the swivel dry first, just to make sure my mounting hole is deep enough, and to drill for and test my cross wire anchor.  I lay the swivel on the side of the bait at the mounting hole location and mark the eye that I want to hit, so I know where to do my cross wire hole.

Because the eye of the swivel is wider than the mounting hole, I position the eye parallel to the front to back centerline of the bait, and, using notches I make with a small screwdriver as a guide, I force the eye in.  Once the eye is started parallel, it goes in just fine, and I seldom have trouble getting the cross wire into the eye.

I'm careful to just coat the outside of the swivel and the inside of the hole with glue before I install the swivel.

Then I install it slowly, watching to be sure the glue doesn't get into the swivel itself.  

Once it's installed, and before the cross wire is installed, I rotate the swivel a few times, just to be sure it's clear.

If I've gotten glue into the swivel, I try and get it back out before the glue sets.  Gap filling super glue give me a little margin for error.

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