Balsa crankbait sealer

[Billy Staggs]

What is the best sealer for balsa crankbaits ? I see some of the pros using a dip that is white could this be propionate? And is it still available just starting out thanks for any help !!

Edited January 17, 2020 by Billy Staggs

[BobP]

Propionate works well if you can find some beads (difficult) and it’s not without its downside.  You need to dissolve it in acetone to make a thin solution and then dip your lures multiple times.  I used 5-6 dips with 15-30 min drying time between dips.  So, you see it’s not a very quick process.  I haven’t heard of any prop seller in several years.  There are various products used to undercoat balsa cranks.  It doesn’t necessarily matter which you choose but I like a coating that 1) reinforces the soft balsa and 2) waterproofs the wood.  Since I often topcoat balsa lures with epoxy, it’s convenient to also use the same epoxy as the undercoating.  Besides being tough and waterproof, epoxy is also chemically inert after it cures so it won’t interact with solvent based coatings, if you use any.  Some guys like to smooth a coat of thin superglue on balsa before undercoating to harden the lure.  I lightly sand the epoxy after its cured to promote paint adhesion.

[DingerBaits]

You can use a vinyl sealer. I use some stuff that sherwin williams makes. only comes in gallons and 5 gallons though. 

[Big Epp]

Minwax makes a wood hardener I just started using.  I haven't tried any of the baits yet, but it was easy to paint over and seems to seal/reinforce the wood pretty well.

[Billy Staggs]

Thanks for all the help ! I knew I came to the right place to ask .

[Hillbilly voodoo]

I have only made wooden lures out of cedar but I assume this would still work. I use etex thinned with acetone but honestly it’s because I have the two products on hand and just how I have always done it 

[mark poulson]

2 hours ago, Big Epp said:

Minwax makes a wood hardener I just started using.  I haven't tried any of the baits yet, but it was easy to paint over and seems to seal/reinforce the wood pretty well.

When I first tried the Minwax wood hardener, I tried soaking my wood bait overnight, to really let it penetrate.  It worked too well.  The hardener bubbled out of the end grain every time I hit it with the hair dryer for a week!  I settled on just a quick dip and hang, and that worked much better.

[Vodkaman]

Balsa is a fibrous, hairy wood. You have to fix the fluff hard to be able to sand the body smooth for a professional finish. Also, as Bob pointed out, you need to reinforce this vulnerable, soft hardwood.

I like thin CA (super glue) for this job. It soaks into the surface for that reinforcement. It is very hard, enabling the fluff to be removed easily. And, it is fast.

The only downside is that if you don't get the application just right, it can be wavy, and then difficult to sand down level again.

If I was taking lures to a finished level, I would probably use CA to seal and remove the hairs, then a coat of epoxy to achieve a smooth, level surface for a really professional finish.

Just my take. Nothing wrong with any of the suggestions above, they all get the job done.

Dave

[jcromerangler]

Look into Solarez it will dry hard as a rock....for sealing/reinforcing.

 

I also have sealed with KBS diamond clear... and top coat as well. I use dip and hang process for everything. 

 

[mark poulson]

I use runny CA glue to seal my balsa baits, two coats.  Then I sand, paint, and top coat with  Solarez.

I like the balsa because it is so light and buoyant, but it is still not as durable, even after two coats of the CA glue, so I top coat with Solarez, for additional hardness.  

 

[jcromerangler]

32 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

I use runny CA glue to seal my balsa baits, two coats.  Then I sand, paint, and top coat with  Solarez.

I like the balsa because it is so light and buoyant, but it is still not as durable, even after two coats of the CA glue, so I top coat with Solarez, for additional hardness.  

 

Thanks Mark

[Billy Staggs]

Thanks for the help what brand super glue and which Solarez thanks again!!

[BobP]

I assume it is the Solarez Dual Cure Gloss resin.  It’s pretty cheap but has one drawback that some guys, including me, don’t like.  Namely, it has small wax flakes in it whose function is to rise to the surface of the coating and “suffocate” the curing process so the finish will develop a hard surface.  That can leave a light white  flush on the topcoat which is more or less visible depending on the color of the paint under it.  If you want a resin without this drawback, Alumi-UV or some other “doming uv resins” are available at considerably higher prices. 

[mark poulson]

14 hours ago, BobP said:

I assume it is the Solarez Dual Cure Gloss resin.  It’s pretty cheap but has one drawback that some guys, including me, don’t like.  Namely, it has small wax flakes in it whose function is to rise to the surface of the coating and “suffocate” the curing process so the finish will develop a hard surface.  That can leave a light white  flush on the topcoat which is more or less visible depending on the color of the paint under it.  If you want a resin without this drawback, Alumi-UV or some other “doming uv resins” are available at considerably higher prices. 

Bob, you're exactly right when it comes to darker paint schemes, but I don't really notice it on lighter stuff.  I'm still using the original Dual Cure Polyester Resin that was designed for surfboard repairs.  I only build for myself and a couple of buddies, so I'm not so worried about the cloudy issue.  The baits hold up and catch fish.