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Covid19mademedoit

Heat/ heat source

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Does plastisol solidify if overheated? What is everyone using as a heat source? I have been using a propane candy burner with an inverted cast iron pan over the flame and then an aluminum pan with a pour spout to melt it. Tips, pointers, criticism welcome. Super newb here. Also, I didn’t consider this at first but how do I prevent air bubbles/voids.

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Most of us doing low volume hand molds use a microwave to heat in Pyrex cups. You can set the Pyrex on a griddle or electric type cooking surface to keep it hot between shots. Takes about 2 minutes before you demold. Need more explanation on the bubbles void thing. Are you injecting and getting voids or hand pouring in silicone molds? Bubbles in your baits or bubbles in the plastic in your pot? 

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I am using the essentials soft plastic kit from do-it molds. It has an injector. About 10% of my senkos have a small void. I was guessing that it was some kind of air pocket. I am very low volume guy too. Didn’t have an old microwave, had burner. If I can keep the plastisol between 320-360; should I expect any solidification in the pot? Thanks for the quick reply btw!

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1 hour ago, Covid19mademedoit said:

If I can keep the plastisol between 320-360; should I expect any solidification in the pot?

When using your burner with the indirect flame you describe, you should be good to go. You will want to heat it to 350 for the initial heat and then try to maintain it in the low 300’s. This will let you shoot it well but keep your colors from darkening and glitter from bleeding for longer. Some glitters will tend to bleed their color into the plastisol even at 350. I wait to put in my glitter until the plastic cools to 320 after my initial heat, then keep it below 320 or so until I use that batch up. 

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