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I am not going to say that this is impossible, but I am putting up a few points for discussion.

1 - the cheaper 3D printers, say less than $1000 only have a print envelope of
20cm x 20cm x 20cm. Either you pay for a machine capable of printing a depth of 150cm or design a rod with 20Cm (8") sections. The former is prohibitively expensive, the latter is highly impractical. Of course, the short sections can be permanently bonded together to make a 2 piece rod, with good design this could work.

2 - materials. rods are constructed of a woven cloth, bonded in resin. This gives the rod great flexibility and huge resistance to fracture and failure. You cannot 3D print such a construction, and the materials available off the shelf for a low cost printer will not have the qualities to compare in weight or strength of a carbon rod blank.

However, design is on your side. You can design internal structures of such complexity that could never be manufactured by any other method. I do believe that it is possible if you have the design skills. But, it would be a trial and error exercise with no guarantees of success.

I have done some work on a bicycle frame, to be printed in standard 3D materials. I have never printed or tested, but I do believe that there is a solution.

Do you own a printer?
If so, what are the print envelope dimensions?
What materials do you have available for prototype?

This project interests me. As a design engineer, I would like to get involved.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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My brothers compamy has 13 3D printers at my disposal. I will get back to you shortly about the information requested. I would love for someone like you being a design engineer to get both hands involved. Myself, own a custom design and injected soft plastic company in which I designed all my baits. So I have a bit of design skills. I'm currently looking into some different materials that might be unconventional but will do the job respectfully

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Well, the business side of me is hesitant. But I believe this site is for knowledge of fishing in all aspects of it, which supersedes my own personal wants. So yea, lets keep it open in hope for a greater impact of our industry. Im def fine with that. This could get interesting...

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Shepard - OK, I am interested. If you intend to make this a commercial venture, then I would obviously want to get paid for my time and innovation. If you want to make this technology open source, I am fine with that to.

Let me know your intentions.

Dave

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Since fishing products are my business, and i believe there may be a niché with possibilities. I would rather make this a commercial venture. I think its possible to create something ICAST worthy. And of course payment of your time and innovation will be compensated, inforced by contactual agreement and/Or creation of an LLC.

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But I still would like to find a way to keep it open source just not step by step by step by step but keeping informative on what we're doing so we can continue to educate anyone else is interested in doing something like we are. And if somebody wants to jump in and collaborate as they see our progression I think that would be beneficial.

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Re your message - like I said, I am open source, and for good reason. I simply wished you 'good luck with your project'.

No, I am not offended at all and have not changed my mind.

If you have read many of my posts, you will realize that I am an open source type of guy, who puts information out there for anyone to use. However, I do take on commercial work in lure design and other fields, but this does not come free.

There are no guarantees with a project such as yours, and one thing that I have learned over a career in design spanning 45 years, is people do not like to pay when a project fails. They often are not too keen on paying when the project is successful either.

I am prepared to put thousands of hours into open source work, but I will not donate a minute to a commercial venture unless I am being paid handsomely for my time.

You intend to make an ongoing commercial venture using my invention and innovation. You make a living and I get a one-off payment. This does not work for me.

Dave

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Hey you need to calm down . Who's the say that you're going to do all the contributions? I have no idea who I've even talkin to? Are you mr. Loomis? If you refer to my post above I clearly stated open source was fine with me. You responded is it going to be a commercial Venture or open source. You said you were good either way. I don't care if you have 45 years in the business oh, let me tell you something sir you stand on Shaky Ground if you're open source don't say commercial or open-source is good with you. By the we sure really ruined this thread

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We never talked about any kind of one-off payment, we we never even talked about payment at all. This feels awfully like a trap for you to let everyone know that you are a "Open Source" man and it's at my expense. You disrespect my Integrity my moral fiber and my character over a single post. You may have 45 years in the business but give me 10 minutes and I'll teach you some manners. We don't treat each other down here in Alabama like that. This is a sad attempt I believe that you trying to say face because maybe you messed up on this site before. This is my first day it will be my last. I'll be making that 3D rod and will be on we'll be on YouTube open source the entire process everybody who helped on my other posts I appreciate you all's input

Vanilla Gorilla

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There are printers that print carbon fiber reinforced resin.  The ones I have seen prints from produce mediocre print quality, but as with many things I'm sure there was trade off with time and/or money.  

I think one of the fascinations many people have with 3D printing is that amazing feeling like when somebody on a Star Trek show walks up to a replicator and says, "Banana Split" and one is magically assembled in seconds before their eyes from nothingness.  I get it, but never tell a magician, "Make me a banana split," or the next thing you feel may be somebody placing a cherry on your head.  

3D printing is not a magic replicator.  It won't be in my lifetime.  It probably won't be in my children's lifetime.  It is a useful tool.  It can be used to make tools to make tools.  It can be used for proof of concept and prototyping ideas.  It can be used for one off parts.  Having a family member who prints parts as part of their business you should already have some understanding of this.  That dream of one day being able to pick up your television remote and saying "Alexa, Print me a motorcycle," is necessary.  That dream of something fantastic is what drives innovation, but picking up a tool and bloodying your knuckles using a wrench are what get things done.  Atleast for today.  

There are many ways a 3D printer can be used right now.  In the fishing tackle industry I could 3D print an end product.  I have at my disposal (belongs to my son) a small 3D resin printer.  I could print a fishing lure.  At the end of designing and printing (from a couple to several hours) I would have a fishing lure.  If I lost my fishing lure in the bushes I could print another one.  After a couple hours I'd have a replacement.  Its not ideal.  Its somewhat fragile compared to other materials.  It needs a fair amount of secondary processing before it is 100% usable.  Still it works... I could print a mold for a fishing lure.  Its still fragile.  The fishing lure would be produced faster at that point, but if my mold breaks from continuous handling (and it will) I have to start over.  What I did with my first foray into 3D printing in collaboration with my son was 3D print a master mold.  I used this to produce silicone molds.  I used the silicone molds to produce strong fishing lures from casting resins with a pre-bent wire form set into the mold.  While the 3D printer does not produce good product, and its very slow to do it, it can help to produce a tool that produces a tool that produces a tough durable product.  The castable resin I use takes about 12 minutes to cure enough to demold.  With additives I give it 20 minutes so it won't break when I pull it out of the silicone mold.  It takes about 6 hours for the silicone I use to cure.  It took about 4 hrs per side to print the master mold.  The spent about 4 hrs on a rotating table to finish curing in the sun.  It took me about 2 hours to design it.    So it took 20 hours and 20 minutes to produce 1 bait.  (Really they also need a full 24hrs to fully cure)  Seems pretty abysmal compared to printing one lure in maybe 2 hours, BUT (and its a big BUT) its still faster than using the 3D printer to directly print a lure in a couple hours.  I've made three of those silicone molds now, and I can make more.  Right now I could walk out to the shop and produce 3 lure blanks every 20 minutes.  It takes me working by myself less than 10 minutes to bend 3 wire forma, prep the resin, and cast it in 3 molds.  So really I can produce right now 3 lure blanks every 20 minutes.  Its not as fast as injection molding a hard plastic like ABS or polycarbonate, but its a lot faster then whittle one out of a stick with a knife.  

I could double my production easily by just making 3 more silicone molds, and I used the 3D printer to allow me to do that easily.  It only takes a few minutes to mix up a batch of silicone, and I don't have to stand there for six hours waiting for it to cure.  Six of those easily produced silicone molds could allow me to produce a lure blank with eyelets already installed every 3 minutes and 20 seconds.  

I'm not saying you should use the process I used to produce lure blanks.  Just that 3D printing wasn't up to the job.  It was however a very useful tool in the process when resulted in a pretty decent production rate.  Its not yet the end all product, but it was very important to this process.  You can't build an engine very effectively with just a forge, but it can be a very useful part of the process.  

If you want to read more about my process for making lures this way I wrote up my experience on my fishing forums.  http://yumabassman.com/forums-new/index.php/topic,10071.0.html  Sorry.  you can't see the pictures unless you are logged on, but here is a picture of one of the misprints just for fun.  




 


 

MisPrint.jpg

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"Make me a banana split" haha...thanks CNC. Thats one of the best replies ive ever gotten, as far as getting to the meat and potatoes of the subject. I can never thank someone enough when I'm going down the wrong direction on a one-way Street and then someone with more knowledge and experience turns me around. Save me a lot of miles. You know I always appreciate it!

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I don't think you're necessarily on a wrong path.  You are just looking at the path pretty far in the future.  

Nor is it the wrong path to learn about any technology if you are a "maker."  It might not do what you thought it would, but it still might help you get there... or it might take you somewhere better.  

Edited by CNC Molds N Stuff
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I have designed a 3D rod blank 5’8” (1.73m) length, primarily because this suits the rod length for my sheltered fishing pond with limited headroom.

I have designed it with a 20cm printing envelope which means the blank is a ten piece with a 30mm ferrule overlap.

The butt diameter is 14mm with a tip diameter of 3mm. the handle parallel portion is 600mm length then tapering down to the tip. This matches the 15mm dia core of the handle material available to me.

The constant wall thickness is 1mm and the helical reinforcing web is 1mm thickness.

This is not ideal. The wall thickness should start thicker and taper down to the tip. Say 1.5mm down to 1.0mm, But this would increase the weight further.

The weight of the blank, assuming a material of 1,2 g/cm³ density such as polycarbonate, would be 103g or 3.63ozs. Compared to internet data for quality blanks, this amounts to 3x the weight. Adopting a tapered wall thickness would increase the weight further.

I do not intend to take this project any further because of the negative weight comparisons. However, if anyone with a 3D printer would like to test out my construction, I would be willing to provide an STL model for printing, on the understanding that this is first draft design with no guarantees.

If anyone wants the model, I will have to do a little extra work in preparation.

Dave

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On 5/11/2020 at 11:27 AM, Vodkaman said:

I have designed a 3D rod blank 5’8” (1.73m) length, primarily because this suits the rod length for my sheltered fishing pond with limited headroom.

 

I have designed it with a 20cm printing envelope which means the blank is a ten piece with a 30mm ferrule overlap.

 

The butt diameter is 14mm with a tip diameter of 3mm. the handle parallel portion is 600mm length then tapering down to the tip. This matches the 15mm dia core of the handle material available to me.

 

The constant wall thickness is 1mm and the helical reinforcing web is 1mm thickness.

 

This is not ideal. The wall thickness should start thicker and taper down to the tip. Say 1.5mm down to 1.0mm, But this would increase the weight further.

 

The weight of the blank, assuming a material of 1,2 g/cm³ density such as polycarbonate, would be 103g or 3.63ozs. Compared to internet data for quality blanks, this amounts to 3x the weight. Adopting a tapered wall thickness would increase the weight further.

 

I do not intend to take this project any further because of the negative weight comparisons. However, if anyone with a 3D printer would like to test out my construction, I would be willing to provide an STL model for printing, on the understanding that this is first draft design with no guarantees.

If anyone wants the model, I will have to do a little extra work in preparation.

 

Dave

 

Hi Dave,

I know this is an old thread. If you're still around I'd love to take you up on the STL or model offer.

I found this thread while looking for 3D printable parts to repair a broken rod. I think your blank pieces could be useful for my project. 

Then after that I could 3D print the whole rod and plastic weld the pieces together for proof of concept to see your design in person.

Please reach out if you're open to the idea. 

I'm also curious if you've ever designed any 3d printable rod repair tools. Like a simple block to put blank on and rotate. 

 

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