Jump to content
MSUICEMAN

Modifying mold for different hooks?

Recommended Posts

Would like to use a sickle hook on an ultra minnow head jig. Only a custom mold 200+ dollars I know exist with this combo. If I lay the hook in a do-it mold and mark the interferences, could I gouge out the aluminum with a Dremel to give the "new" hook clearance? Could I also possibly shorten the lead collar by putting clay in that area? 

You guys have much more experience in this than me. Just don't want to spend the insane money (though they sure are pretty) on a semi custom mold. 

 

Thanks

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Easy just lay the hook you want to use on the open mold lining it up with the hook eye and cavity . with a sharp  pencil or fine sharpie trace around both sides of the hook making an outline of the hook .Using a dremil tool with a small ball tipped cutter start grinding  out aluminum about 1/2 the diameter of the hook wire . Check depth every so often by placing the hook in the slot you're cutting so you don't cut too deep . When happy do the same to the other half . Make sure the mold closes fully with a hook when you're done or you will have a flashing of lead around the parting line between mold halves . You can fill or block off parks of a mold you don't want such a skirt collars with JB weld or red automotive High Temp silicone . 

Edited by jigmeister
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I modify a mold I put the hook where I want it, hold it in place with a piece of masking tape, put the mold in a vice and squeeze it as hard as i can.  Sometimes a Dremel is not even needed.

 I block all unused sections with RTV silicone.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve had good luck with flat end mill bits and ball end mill bits in my drill press with a drill press clamp. The dremel for me wanted to walk, wasn’t easy to control, and just made a mess of things. What worked is laying a Hook on one side and spraying the hook and mold with mold release. This will leave the outline of hook on the mold. Doing the same on the other side. Removing material with the end mills. 

Edited by Apdriver
Added content

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to buy the stock mold for 39 bucks. Will see if I can easily mod it. I'm sure someone has come up with it other than the custom mold route. Though I have also contemplated taking an ultra jig, cutting out the hook with a Dremel carefully, replacing with a sickle hook, patching it with clay and then attempting to make a plaster mold. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a question from someone who has never had to try it.

Can you use JB Weld to repair over-ground areas, so you can just lay your hook, covered with some kind of release agent, into the wet weld, let it cure, and then file/sand the excess weld flat, and then do the same thing with the other mold half.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tape it exactly where you want it, close tightly And hit it with a hammer on both sides.  I’ve done it many times for hooks.

 

yes you can use JB WELD to close/repair areas.  Done this too and it’s lasted years

Edited by rfdong
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...
Top