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 Hey all, I've been reading a ton on this site for the past few weeks and researching, or rather, admiring people work for a little longer. I do basic wood working as a hobby and since I have been fishing a lot lately I wanted to try my luck at a few baits. There's just some information I can't quite figure out and as a perfectionist (at least my brain thinks I am) I can't get started until I have a few answers, so here are a couple questions I have:

 

1. What's the deal with lure shapes? Is everyone just doing a generic shape? I see them a lot and they are usually the same shad or minnow shape. Is there any way to make it any different or are there reasons for these shapes? I know they mimick the fish, but I mean where bends and curves are on the shape .

 

2. How thick are these baits? I have 1 inch balsa, 1/4 Inch balsa and a ton of 3/4 Inch other woods and I can't quite figure out how thick a bait should be. I feel like I want to make something in the 3 inch size, maybe shads because I like how cool crank baits are, but how thick do I make them?

 

3. Why does everyone make lures out of single blocks of wood? I was going to make 2 pieces and just wood glue them together so I could insert my guys easier. Is there a flaw I'm overlooking here?

 

4. Through wires. Is there a stronger way to do this other than the single bends? Alive seen a single straight wire through the lure and then a separate wire that goes around it for the belly hook eye and I wondered if there was research on which was stronger or better. I also can't seem to find a consensus on the steel wire needed for these things. I currently bought 19g ss wire. I'm hoping it works.

 

5. How much should a lure weigh? I figure weighting it would be trial and error, but is there a general weight for lures or does that not matter? 

 

6. Any great resources you guys might have about the dynamics of body shapes? I've read the bib post and it's amazing. Things like that are what I love to read about.

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My suggestion is to make a close a copy of a commercial lure you admire first.  After all, why reinvent the wheel?  Then tweak that design to improve its performance.  The hydrodynamics of crankbaits are quite complicated and you’ll want to experiment.  That’s fine as long as you accept that some experiments end up in the trash.  How many lures have been developed for the  commercial market?  Thousands.  Most of them follow a common shape scheme.  The commonality in lure shape is there for good reason:  it’s what works.  How much weight?  Exactly as much that will stabilize the lure when retrieved while permitting it to swim in the manner you want it to, and no more.  I use calipers, tracing, and a digital scale when copying a commercial bait and work put weighting to within 1/50th ounce.  When I get the copy just right, then I start experimenting with new versions to make them unique.

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When I started making lures, I started making just jigs but then one day I took a 1/2" dowel and cut it to a size of about a 1 1/2" long, put a hook with feathers on it and on the very first cast I caught a small mouth bass the fish was hooked and so was I. That was in the 80's and still making lures from small to big even sold some so yes there have been thousands of lure types but a lot of them don't make it. There are some really good baits that most guys make for them self's and have still been making them for years and catching fish. So welcome to fun and few nipped fingers, not too bad and a joy of making a lure, just use your imagination and let it fly you will laugh at some but keep trying. Good luck and enjoy.

Wayne

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I love these questions. I probably asked the same when I joined.

1 – I design the hardware layout on a paper sketch and then draw a body shape around it. There is really no big deal about body shapes, pretty much anything goes. I like my ballast low down, so mine tend to be deep bodied lures.

2 – For a 3” body, 5/8, 3/4 are all comfortable. But again, there are no rules. 1/2, 1” are good too.

3 – Many builders use two slabs glued together, it is a very good technique for balsa. You also have the advantage of a built in center-line. Hold the plates together with a couple of drops of soft glue for the carving process so that they can be separated later.

4 – No hard rules here either. The point of the through wire is that if the balsa body disintegrates then the fish is not lost. as long as your wire design achieves this then you are good.

5 – It weighs what it weighs, no rules.

6 – Body dynamics does play a lesser part on cranks, the main thing is to understand lips.

Good luck with your project.

Dave

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1) I have found that shape wise North American builders use fairly similar body shapes and seems Europe does as well. These are based to be similar to forage. Now if you look at Australian lure builders you will find some more interesting body shapes that step away from the norm. I am a believer in the theory you can enhance or modify the action with different body shapes because of this I will step out of the standard North American shapes

2) there is no standard thickness my lures range from 1/4 inch to 2inch wide

3) lots of people use multiple pieces myself included 

4) no standard here either but instead build according to your target species. Personally I use stainless eye screws and my main targets are lake trout and pike. I have also taken some big salmon with no issues with how I presently build

5) no magic weight 

6)headed to work so no time for big write up but basically think about how the body catches water pressure or cuts through the water or uses the water to generate lift is a good starting point. Lots of lures have action without a lip and it’s to do with the body 

 

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I'll echo some of what's already been said...

My recommendation for starting out is use some existing templates (google "Doc's Lures" for a free video tutorial and free templates), and after using existing material to get familiar with the design and building principles start branching out.  Go nuts, see what works, let us know.  I've trashed several designs, but the nice thing is the failures make either good kindling or good Christmas ornaments.

1)  Seems like most lures are shaped to match or generally mimic the local forage...maybe with the exception of topwaters, there's a lot of variety there.

2)  I use whatever wood I can find, often scraps.  Luckily, I've been able to resaw much of it on a bandsaw, so I typically cut the wood to 3/4 or 1/2, and I'll just use whatever looks "right."

3)  I've done all mine from 1 piece so far.  Lots of folks use multiple pieces, especially those who do 3D printing.

4)  I've used twist eyes more than through wires, and I've use a figure 8 through wire as well as a bent single piece of wire.  So far I haven't had any lures fail, and I've caught most of my fish (bass) this year on a 2 1/2" popper with twist eyes.

5)  I've nothing to add here.

6)  Look up Doc Lures, he's got a good free basic class.  I got a lot of good information there.  

7)  Have fun and go nuts.  I've only been doing this for about a year and a half, but this season I've caught a majority of my fish on lures I made, which is a TON of fun.  I've even been able to sell a few lures, which is a nice bonus.  Ask a lot of questions and utilize the search feature frequently.  There's a lot of insight on here, and the more experienced folks seem to be happy to help.

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Honestly it is a simple process.  Lure makers take the simple and make it complicated all too often.

Shape of the bait just needs to be one that will be effective in use/action.  For most baits we use it really isn't all that critical.  I believe once you start targeting larger fish you have to start taking some science into it with regards to bait length/height/shape as we know the limitation of prey size.

Bait size typically isn't an issue in regards to most are builds.  To be honest much of it has to do with the typical equipment we use and getting to a target weight.  The mechanics of the tools we use to fish do much to shape the overall weight we end up making baits and also the fish we are targeting.  I can fish for creek smallies all day long with a 12 inch swim bait and will end the day tired and likely not much to show for my effort.

Two piece baits are fine but just another step to complicate the matter and screw up.  Something I don't mess with overall unless you have an internal weight transfer system or something similar.  Through wire isn't something typically needed with many baits.  Of course species may make a difference.  Once again the tools we use are more important here... proper rod action, drag, and line.   I know it is open water but look at the 4 lb line test record for a blue marlin.  ;)

The best thing you can do is make some lures and fish them.  Put them too the test.  The more time you spend on the water the more you understand how the specific bait should function and what to improve.  Buy others lures and fish them.  Buy proven baits that get their named dropped a lot.  Fish those cut one up, etc..  I have bought a lot of baits (several from guys on this site) at shows, ebay, etc. over the years.   Cheap lesson in the long run and you are looking at a bait all ready battle tested and proven.   It will also show things you do well compared to those trying to meet numbers for selling.

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