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UKandy

Choosing the correct wire?

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Hi all, hope you are all safe & well.

So I'm still tinkering with my first prototype lure & it's time to seek out some wire for a harness/twist eyes.

I would like to ask for advice on the correct type of wire to use & what gauge You would suggest for pike & musky lures?

I wanted to start this as a new topic in case any new ideas/materials have arisen since older posts.

If anyone knows of any stockists in the UK please do share with me.

Really appreciate any advice, after the whole resin cok up that I had it would be nice to get this part correct first time!!

Many thanks, Andy.

 

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Thanks for the info guys :yay:

I've seen some 0.51 stainless steel lock wire, wondering if this will be okay? It comes in 280mtr reels which is good.

I've also seen some 1.5mtr straight 0.51 rods, these won't be anywhere near as cost effective as the 280mtr reel though.

Can the lock wire on the reel be straightened out easily? & by what method?

Andy.

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1 minute ago, exx1976 said:

Whoa.  0.51 is significantly different than .051 is.  One is nearly a half inch, the other is 51 thousandths.

 

Hoping this is a typo on your part, or you're in for a VERY bad day.  LOL

:D yep my bad!!

Are you saying I couldn't bend half inch wire with pliers? :lol: lol

Andy.

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3 minutes ago, UKandy said:

:D yep my bad!!

Are you saying I couldn't bend half inch wire with pliers? :lol: lol

Andy.

I suppose that would depend what it's constructed of.  Stainless?  Likely not.  LOL

 

Regardless if you could bend it, you'd better have a REALLY big bait or it's gonna sink like a rock.  :D

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The spec for soft stainless that you are looking for is '304'. It is common and widespread.

If you find it on the shelf and the clerk is not looking, grab the last inch and bend it. The wire should bend easily and not spring back.

My wire is thinner than 0.051" but I am making small cranks. I have never had a failure, but the eyes can get bent and in extreme cases (testing) pulled out of shape.

Dave

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1 hour ago, Vodkaman said:

The spec for soft stainless that you are looking for is '304'. It is common and widespread.

If you find it on the shelf and the clerk is not looking, grab the last inch and bend it. The wire should bend easily and not spring back.

My wire is thinner than 0.051" but I am making small cranks. I have never had a failure, but the eyes can get bent and in extreme cases (testing) pulled out of shape.

Dave

That's the stuff buddy :yay:

Any ideas on the best way to straighten wire from a reel?

Cheers, Andy.

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12 minutes ago, UKandy said:

That's the stuff buddy :yay:

Any ideas on the best way to straighten wire from a reel?

Cheers, Andy.

051 is fairly thick, and shouldn't have much memory.  You should look to buy it in packaging such that it springs out straight when removed from said packaging.  eg, there are places that sell it "coiled", but it's coiled at like a 12 or 14" diameter.  Instead of being coiled around the outside of a spool, it's coiled on the inside.  When you begin to remove it, it should self-straighten.  If anyone is actually wrapping it tight enough that it's holding the shape of the spool you bought it on, I'd look for a different supplier.  Way too much of a pain in the ass to deal with that.

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1 minute ago, exx1976 said:

051 is fairly thick, and shouldn't have much memory.  You should look to buy it in packaging such that it springs out straight when removed from said packaging.  eg, there are places that sell it "coiled", but it's coiled at like a 12 or 14" diameter.  Instead of being coiled around the outside of a spool, it's coiled on the inside.  When you begin to remove it, it should self-straighten.  If anyone is actually wrapping it tight enough that it's holding the shape of the spool you bought it on, I'd look for a different supplier.  Way too much of a pain in the ass to deal with that.

Ahh I see, got ya!

The spool I have looked at has the wire on the inside, I just assumed it would come out coiled.

Cheers for that info :yay:

Andy.

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3 minutes ago, lunkerhunter204 said:

I am making my first lures as well. I got 060 SS tig welding wire and it seemed to do the trick. I got 10 3 foot pieces for 5 bucks. Seemed reasonable.

Depends on what lengths you actually need, and how many you need to buy.  What seems reasonable at first, for a hobby builder, can quickly become unwieldy if there is a lot of waste in there (say you needed 10" pieces, for example), and especially if you start buying a lot of it.  All those 6" pieces of waste could easily add up to additional 10" sections if bought by the coil instead of pre-cut.

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1 hour ago, UKandy said:

Ahh I see, got ya!

The spool I have looked at has the wire on the inside, I just assumed it would come out coiled.

Cheers for that info :yay:

Andy.

Since you haven't tried to bend any wire yet, I'd suggest you get the smallest quantity possible, to see if it will work for you, before proceeding to a larger quantity purchase.

I have wire that I bought, thinking it would work, only to find out it was totally unsuitable for my needs.

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35 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

Since you haven't tried to bend any wire yet, I'd suggest you get the smallest quantity possible, to see if it will work for you, before proceeding to a larger quantity purchase.

I have wire that I bought, thinking it would work, only to find out it was totally unsuitable for my needs.

LOL  I did that with split rings.  Anybody need 998 split rings?  :D

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If you are going to make a lure like a bucktail, whopper plopper, tallywhacker, globe, anything that will have a spinning/rotating part, use shaft wire as it is straight right out of the pack. It's hard stainless so it will resist bending and keep the parts rotating better. Shaft wire is also good if you are going to straight wire through a bait from line tie to tail loop with dropper wires or swivels for the belly hook hangers. Mark provided the link above.

If you are looking to bend wire to make a non-straight internal wire harness or if you are looking to make twist wire eye screws, use annealed safety locking wire. Annealed wire will hold a bend better and not spring back. It comes off the spool in a loose curl. You can get this close to straight with some work.

I use each type, which one will depend on the lure type.

Saftey wire .051 annealed 304 stainless:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVQVNCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pliers for making twist wire eye (wear gloves, the knurled knob can grate your skin):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082SX8D4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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2 hours ago, JD_mudbug said:

If you are going to make a lure like a bucktail, whopper plopper, tallywhacker, globe, anything that will have a spinning/rotating part, use shaft wire as it is straight right out of the pack. It's hard stainless so it will resist bending and keep the parts rotating better. Shaft wire is also good if you are going to straight wire through a bait from line tie to tail loop with dropper wires or swivels for the belly hook hangers. Mark provided the link above.

If you are looking to bend wire to make a non-straight internal wire harness or if you are looking to make twist wire eye screws, use annealed safety locking wire. Annealed wire will hold a bend better and not spring back. It comes off the spool in a loose curl. You can get this close to straight with some work.

I use each type, which one will depend on the lure type.

Saftey wire .051 annealed 304 stainless:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FVQVNCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pliers for making twist wire eye (wear gloves, the knurled knob can grate your skin):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082SX8D4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

:yay: thanks for the info & links

Andy.

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