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Husky

Calling all "Foamy " Bait makers.

12 posts in this topic

It has been brought to my attention that some of you are having difficulties getting a good sealer/basecoat on their Foam baits.

I have used "Plasticoat" (See Tully's Tutorial in the Hard Baits section) with great results.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/index.php?page=10&mode=article&k=32

What do you folks use to SUCCESSFULLY finish your foam castings? [/url]

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I have been using the "pasticoat" stuff also. So far so good. I have been using testors paints so far.

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I use "Plasti-Kote" brand sandable primer. I really am convinced that most surface problems are due to the realease agent. "Trewax" brand (clear hard paste wax for floors) works wonders with hard urethane rubber molds. Casting comes out of mold ready to spray light primer coat and paint. Haven't tried it with bondo so I'm not sure it would work. One thing I found while playing around with various mold releases is that if the mold release was not COMPLETELY BONE DRY before pouring foam, there will be surface problems such as tiny pinholes on the surface that make it very hard to finish. Cliff

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First, I wash the mold release off with Lacquer thinner

or Acetone. I then wet sand the bait with a foam pad

and wash with dishwashing detergent.

I then use the melted plastic cups to seal, and prime with

Kilz. Because the Kilz will bond to the plastic I donot sand

the plastic coating after the second or third coat. If a puddle

of Kilz is sprayed in a cup and left to sit, it will eat the

bottom out of the cup.

I think in the case of foam we are sealing the foam to

keep something from getting out, rather than water

getting in. Now what this something is I don't know. It

could be gas or air. Or just to seal very small pin holes

in the foam itself.

I have used Kilz alone against the foam with no problems.

Coley

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Don't bother with mould release agents.Ijust spray the silicone rubber with white auto-lacquer,fast dry with hair dryer,then pour urethane.Lure pops out white under-coated ready to paint your colours.

Barramundi

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I just want to say thanks to Husky and Cliff for their help in getting the blistering problem resolved. It seemed as though any pinholes in the casting would generate a blister/bubble. The Tre-wax and a dusting of talc did the trick. I'll post a pic when I get the her painted.

Barramundi,

What product do you use as your silicone mold? Doesn't it flex under the stress of the expanding foam?

Thanks again, guys!

Arch

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I decreased my problems with imperfections (rare now) by making the vent hole as small as possible to make sure I get a good skin. After I remove the lure from the mold I lightly sand and then dip in the "plasticoat" the first coat may have one or two small bubbles form but I knock those down with a fine sanding. It basically fills the small void with the plastic. Two more coats and it is baby butt smooth. I posted earlier I am using testors but forgot to mention I use Krylon Fusion as a base coat. Following pic shows four of my new goodies in multiple stages.

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I decreased my problems with imperfections (rare now) by making the vent hole as small as possible to make sure I get a good skin. After I remove the lure from the mold I lightly sand and then dip in the "plasticoat" the first coat may have one or two small bubbles form but I knock those down with a fine sanding. It basically fills the small void with the plastic. Two more coats and it is baby butt smooth. I posted earlier I am using testors but forgot to mention I use Krylon Fusion as a base coat. Following pic shows four of my new goodies in multiple stages.

Wow, Travis. It looks as though you really got the hang of this Foam thing. Beautiful work. Thanks for the reply.

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Why not use a light coat of epoxy?

I found Epoxy and Etex gave an uneven finish on raw foam. It won't lay flat as it does as a top coat. Some pooling and some bare spots. The only problem with the "Plasticoat" is that it has the strong odor of lacquer thinner which is a problem for some guys..

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I am sure certain epoxies would do great problem is going through the time to find one that works similar to the solo cup/thinner mixture. Probably end up with something similar to the UV set epoxies used in dipping stations for computer chips and electronic componets. The cup/thinner stuff would also be much cheaper. For ten bucks you can make up a lot of "dip".

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