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Posted 24 February 2005 - 02:48 PM
It is all in the paint... All paints are not equal... acrylics dont equal acrylics. Createx craft paint is different than createx auto air. Apparently the pigments are ground almost 5x as small in Auto air versus regular createx. Golden paints are supposed to be ground finer. Wasco supply offers Polytranspar...these are ground finer...of course, these cost more. They are ground finer to allow airbrushes to operate easier. Remember this when buying your next batch of paint....... smaller pigments create less clogging....Iwata recommends straining paint before using it in their guns.... I have heard old nylons work well...although I have not tried myself. Does anyone have any other brands that are easier to work with??? It seems like a hassle to strain paint. Any thoughts?
Posted 24 February 2005 - 02:59 PM
Tbait, I use Wasco solvent based paints and they do not clog. The only needle time that I ever have clean the needle is after the air brush has not been used in several days. When I used to Createx and had to clean the air brush frequently every time that I used it.
Posted 24 February 2005 - 03:23 PM
I clean every time I use the brush, regardless of the brand. Easy way to prevent problems and keeps you familiar with your brush.
Posted 24 February 2005 - 06:39 PM
go to a shop that sells auto body supplies and get some paper straining funnells. It makes straining fast and easy
Posted 24 February 2005 - 11:38 PM
I strain it all no matter what the brand.Like overkill say's,I buy the paper funnel strainers from auto paint supply.100 cost about $11.00.
I always reduce my paint before I strain it.
I dont care how good a quality airbrush you own,the quality of the paint you run through it will always show in the end.
I have shot some of the cheapest crap you have ever seen but if it is reduced enough to go trough a strainer like mentioned above,the quality can be improved.I have some paint that cost $150.00 a pint and still strain it.
It is very important to remember this one "tid bit" of information.Your paint of choice is sitting in its container waiting on you.You set up to paint.You shake your container to mix the paint.(If you are smart you will add some BB's in the container).You use the paint then replace the cap and it sits again untill next time.The inside walls of the container are coated with dry paint from the last use.
You continue the use of the paint and eventually the the dried particles are blended in with the paint.
For this reason I periodically strain paint that has already been strained.
I use about 98% acrylic lacquer and would say that Black is the worst at causing problems.For this reason I strain it often.
Posted 25 February 2005 - 08:53 AM
Good information Blades, never thought of the dry paint inside the bottle. Explains now why I will get those little "flyers" coming out of the brush and landing on my lure! I always thought it was the gun even though I try and keep it clean.
I do agree about the acrylics, much nicer to work with. I owe you a picture of a topwater bait that was inspired by you!
Posted 25 February 2005 - 09:57 AM
I also use acrylics, and am satisfyed with them, though they get clought on the needle very fast. I read somwere on this forum that you need to shoot some car wax on it so it wouldn't cet claught so rapidly. I think silicone works too.
I only used a brand of acrylics(don;t remember the name, because i thinned the entire suply and put it in little recipients, that i fitted to the air brush, because i couldn't find apropriate recipients for it). I am satisfied until now with the final result, excepting the white. The pigment in it isn't dense enough. And i have trouble with the black too. It gets clought on the needle faster than any other colour, but that helped me in some situations
Posted 25 February 2005 - 07:29 PM
The comment about BB'S in the paint jar, reminds me of squirting some of those large Metalflakes. The only way you could keep the flake agitated was by tossing a couple of marbles in the paint cup and constantly shake the heck out of it. Until the came out with a air driven agitator cup with a magnetic impeller, which worked great. Does anybody know if the make such a device for a airbrush? Something else you might find of use which pertains to paint. Years ago I came across a large glass & metal syringe, it has a glass tube and metal plunger. Works great for drawing small amounts of paint and thinner from a jar. After you have the thinner and paint in the syringe just shake it for a moment then squirt it in your airbrush cup, clean and efficient. In addition, it works great for power flushing your airbrush draw some thinner into the syringe place the syringe opening where the cup attaches to the brush and flush.