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wooden lure sealing revisited yet again
15 replies to this topic
Posted 28 March 2005 - 09:09 AM
made a plug (douglas fir) primed with kilz ,outer coating of devcon . Outer coating got cracked from an impact and water soaked into the wood splitting the paint /epoxy all over.
next attempt : made a plug (basswood this time) sealed the bare wood with devcon ,painted , then sealed the plug with outer layer of devcon over the paint. this one seems to be holding up great but I am still concerned if it gets a ding it could split .
bought some boiled linseed oil to seal the lure body but after reading some comments about paint adhesion problems with linseed oil it has me wondering . I was planning on using the devcon as a final clear coat even with the linseed oil . Any comments or suggestions?
Its just pretty frustrating putting all the time in creating a lure to have it split on you . maybe I should have stuck with making jigs and plastic worms ............Jigmeister
Posted 28 March 2005 - 03:35 PM
I tried everything and the only thing that ever kept the wood from splitting under all circunstances was a thinned epoxy sealer. I like Flex-Coat, but I'm sure others would work. I often fish prototypes with no paint, just the thinned epoxy sealer and the dont split. I thin Flex-coat 6:1 with acetone.
Also, be aware that some woods are more prone to expansion when introduced to moisture. I never liked basswood for lures.
Posted 28 March 2005 - 04:16 PM
If you are sealing with devcon 2ton you don't have any worries. You would have to get cracks in both layers of epoxy for water to reach the wood. It doesn't matter what you seal the wood with IMHO, if water reaches the wood and soaks in the bait is toast. Make two of every color just in case.
Posted 28 March 2005 - 10:19 PM
boiled linseed oil mixed with mineral spirits is what I use to seal wood plugs. 60% linseed/ 40% spirits. Dip the plug, let drip, then wipe off excess, let dry for 5-7 days. Prime, paint, clear coat as usual. The amount of time you leave the plug in the mix will depend on the type of wood. 30 seconds - 2 minutes is typical.
Even if the clear coat cracks, the boiled linseed oil will keep the water out. Just be sure to dispose of the rags you use for wiping the linseed off according to the directions on the can. If done wrong, the rags could spontaneously combust.
Posted 28 March 2005 - 11:45 PM
I am an impatient lure maker so I hate waiting around on things to dry or set. My favorite sealer these days is a Minwax product called Wood Hardner. It penetrates really fast and has some very hard resins in it, and it sets up in 2-4 hours. You gotta be careful though because it has acetone in it so ventilation is important. I use a tray to hold the lure over while I simply pour the Wood Hardner over it. Then I pour the tray back into the can. Normally pouring things back into cans is a bad idea, but in this case since its a sealer coat just hit it lightly with 220 and any debris it has picked up is gone.
Posted 29 March 2005 - 08:47 AM
Thanks all for the great suggestions ! Looks like I've got to go buy some more supplies...........jigmeister
Posted 29 March 2005 - 09:12 AM
That may be what the can says, but the times I've used it I had to wait 24 hours. Waiting just the 4 hours I had some paint adhesion problems. Bubbles in the paint. Probably caused by solvents from the Min Wax while it finished curing.
Posted 29 March 2005 - 09:20 PM
I seal basswood and most other woods other than balsa by dipping in minwax Polycrylic and putting it on the drying wheel. Sand and repeat. Maybe a third time if not glass smooth. I then scuff, prime with Kilz 2, and paint. Then I clearcoat with two coats of Envirotex Lite. My main gripe with Devcon is its tendency to crack upon hard impact. E-tex is much more forgiving of impacts that would crack Devcon 2-Ton.
Posted 30 March 2005 - 09:49 AM
And the apprehension sinks in...
I just went through heck trying to build a jointed (started out like a "shallow raider...decided to joint it like a Hawg wobbler..didn't like the shape, so carved it to look like a baby pike (thanks to Mangeboy's beauty!) sealed it the best I could w/ Kilz (oil based) let it cure, smoothed it out and decided screw eyes weren't going to be an option so went with through wire (thanks to Lapala's tut.) put rings and hooks on it, and it swims better than I had ever dreamed!! should grab any Muskies attention! Anyhow, after all the backpeddling, the bait is no longer completely sealed..and I already set the lip to boot ..so...do I just paint it and pray? or is there a way to seal it w/out sticking my joints together..and gobbing up the lip (decided painting the lip might be an only option now.. Oh woe is me!
Posted 30 March 2005 - 10:30 AM
mossy maker Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 8:44 pm Post subject:
Envirotex-lite is available from several sources. Here in KY I've seen it at Michael's (crafts) and Hobbytown stores. Ace Hardware also catalogs it; if they don't stock it, they can order it for you from their warehouse. You might also do an online search if you want it delivered to your door.
Posted 30 March 2005 - 11:17 AM
I still haven't found a sealing process I am completely happy with either. I think after running 400 experiments tho that the type of wood makes a big difference. Some woods expand much more than others when wet and will thus have a greater liklihood of failure in the event they absorb water. I have been working with hard maple lately and it is a wonderful wood, very little grain to deal with and hard as a rock. It seems tho that any wood bait will fail if water gets to it so the outer seal is of paramount importance. I know of some builders that soak their baits for about 30 minutes in wood sealers which makes sense as it gives the wood time to absorb some of the sealer. For guys making small baits on this board I don't think the sealer is quite as critical but for those building the big guys as I am the problems escalate.
have you ever tried soaking baits for an extended time, say 25 minutes, in the polycrylic?
Paint the bait and seal. Be careful to not go to heavy with the clear coat or you may see the action of the bait change and/or become non-existent. By the way, I have tested my screw eyes and the pulling power of an individual screw eye exceeds 140 pounds which is as hard as I could pull...they might be greater than 200 pounds for all I know. There isn't a bass or musky that will pull one out when it is properly set.
Posted 30 March 2005 - 05:49 PM
[quote]Dean, have you ever tried soaking baits for an extended time, say 25 minutes, in the polycrylic?
Jed, I haven't, but I do kind of a slow swirl-around dip, shake off and immediately get it on the dryer because I am doing a heavier coat than one would spray and I've notice a little more penetration than I expectedwhen sanding relatively porous wood...that's a good question, makes me wonder...
Posted 30 March 2005 - 07:03 PM
Also Dean, have you noted any problems with the Kilz wanting to stick when you put it over the top of the PC? I have found with the Shellac I use that it will stick but the coating goes on thinner than when the Shellac is left off.
Posted 30 March 2005 - 10:09 PM
No Jed, but I've been doing this the same way for awhile--might have to do it differently to notice, if you know what I mean.