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pikehunter

pike and musky baits

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Actually, most rulers have a metric side to them, so you could just start to use it. I have had to use the metric system because of the science classes that I have taken, and I find that the measurement system based on 10 is alot easier to work with, once you get used to it.

I actually didn't even know about that site, but I will definately be spending some quality time there with the stencils they have :D

Brock

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Thanks Monty, I was on the way out the door and kinda left the guy hanging :oops:

Onchorhynchus, there's alot of great patterns on that site. I could not find any of the woods recomended there, but have built several gliders out of maple. With a little trial and error, I've turned out a few dandys B) In fact, a small glider ,I built, got hit by a pretty good musky while testing it from a boat landing...in "primer white" no less! Another got rolled by a small Pike from the same landing. Anyhow, have fun with it..and let us see what you come up with!

Windknot

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hi pike hunter I've been trying to perfect these types of lures for sometime now .

First I would say you need some basic tools . Some kind of saw to cut out shapes, a wood file a, a drill , sand paper . I also have a combo belt/disc sander. an air brush etc.

All the lures I make have through wire construction ( don't want to loose that bigone because an eye pulled out)

I use 3/4 thick pine for the body and 1/8 or 1/4 thick lexan for the lips .

Once I have the body shaped and sanded I drill a 1/4" hole right down the lenght of the lure. drill from both ends and meet in the middle that way your holes will be were you want them. Then I drill holes in the belly for wire that will hold hooks.

I also drill a hole to add weights this will Keep your lure upright in the water. The weight of the hooks isn't enough. Make sure to drill the belly holes so they connect to the hole that runs the lenght of the lure.

Once I have the wires and weight installed I plug the holes in either end fill the all the holes with fiberglass resin . I use a glue syringe to squirt the resin way inside. Once the resin sets up I fill the end holes. I now sand and fill any imperfections with bondo.

Now I add the lip . Carefully cut a slot to put the lip into , be carefull not to cut the wire. Use 5 minute epoxy to glue it in.

After its ready to paint I prime it and use an air brush to paint

As far as designs go just have a look around the web and try to immitate what works .

I'll try and post some pics in another thread so you can see my finished lures .

Rick.

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Thanks for the kind words Monty!

Pikehunter, you've got some good advice so far for sure. TU and Divani's (the kink posted earlier in the thread) sites are to be the most useful and informative sites on the subject. THere is a wealth of quality information on both sites. I have another site for your reference that deals specifically with muskie baits: www.out2llunge.cjb.net It's dated in that I haven't updated it recently, but there's still some good info there.

The net is a great place to start. There wasn't much available when I started, but there is a plethora now. Start with some basic lures like a Jake or Grannie and get your feet wet there. If you've already got some woodworking skills then try something a little more advanced.

Woods like cedar, maple, pine and poplar are most common. Beech, ash, and birch are also suitable, but avoid really soft woods like balsa. Bear in mind that the same lure will behave differently depending on the wood used.

Photoshop (or similar) will also be a new best friend. It's great for resizing images and patterns.

Look at the work of some of the guys around here and some of the other boards:

Riverman - Bikini Bait Co.

Mark Smith - Smuttly Dogs

Beaver Slivinski - Castor Baits

and others too. Tom S has been making some nice looking baits too.

Understand the principles of lure design instead of getting lucky. Lucky is nice, but it's often hard to duplicate luck. One last thing, the fish don't care near as much as the fishmen do about how "pretty" the lure looks. Lure action, I believe means a lot more - colour helps to 'force' the strike.

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Can't seem to access your site again. Saved it in my favorites last night. I have made some large cranks for 'skis in the past couple of years. I probably made the body too thick as it took alot of lead to get it to sit properly. It was a guessing game, and alot of trips to the lake that had deep enough water to see if these things made a dive for the bottom. I read an article in the latest Muskie Hunter magazine, who talked to the Crane bait manufacturer. He kinda gave a hint as to the way he weighted his baits. I'm not one for keeping or taking notes. Each lure I made was different. Is it standard for firstimers to follow a commercial bait, as to size, lip location, number of hooks and their location? Then you get to play with the weighting? Grandma baits are awfully thin. Is that too think when making a wood lure? Sorry for all the questions. Hope I can find DVD somewhere, soon. Going to McGregor Bay in September. Thanks, Bruce.

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Hi Bruce,

I saw that youposted over on my site and I'm sorry to hear you had such trouble, but I'm sure why.

As for the baits, I think it's best/easiest when starting to copy something that already exists. You know how the bait behaves and hence what yours should do (or close) when it's finished. Grannies are about 5/8" thick which is totally fine. You mentioned thick baits/lots of lead, that also will be affected by wood type with more buoyant woods requiring more ballast.

You also mentioned you don't like taking notes. Bad news - you better start or you'll have a hard time eliminating what went wrong with each new bait/design that you make. If it helps take pictures and just jot down some quick specs. The pics don't have too be high res, but rather just good enough for you to REPRODUCE the bait each time.

Hope that helps!

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