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squigster

Lip Cutting Procedure Question For Crankbaits

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Hello,

I am a newbie to the Forum and have found alot of this interesting and informatve. The problem I am having is that I am making crankbaits from Balsa and I cannot find out or figure out how to cut the lip slot out perfectly every time. Someone on here said they use a scroll saw but how can you cut a 3/32" slot symetrically for a 1/8" thick lip with a scroll saw? It seems next to impossible. Even on a band saw it does not seem practical due to having to make multiple cuts along with ensuring that the slot is perfectly cut for a lip. Any comments would be great. I am getting aggravated with the process. I bought a few homemades that dont run right and I had to shave the lips and play with them for a good 1/2 hour to get it to run straight. I dont want to have to spend hours tweaking my baits. Also, If anyone could suggest a good paint to use that would be applied over Polyurethane and would be under Epoxy, I would really appreciate it. Thank You In Advance, Jim

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Thanks Tally,

I figured that a table saw would just tear the Balsa up and create a snowstorm in my garage. :lol: I guess I will try it but I will have to cut it before I even try and shape the bait. I will try and set up a jig to cut different lip configurations based on what angle I want for the bait I am making. Also, as far as paint goes I see people mention Createx? I thinks thats right.... Correct me if I am wrong. Is this they Brand/Type of paint I should use? I asked two local hobby stores about it and either one of them ever heard of it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Again,

Jim

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Jim,

I make one cut with my bandsaw for my lip slot. The same would apply if you are using a scrollsaw. After I cut the slot I use a diamond bit with my Dremel to get the proper width for the thickness of my lip. The bits come in several different styles and sizes. If your lip is 3/32 just use a 3/32 bit. The bit will follow the cut made by the saw perfectly. It only takes about 20 seconds for the bit to travel through a 3/4-in wide bait. Perfect sized lip slots every time!

Gene

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I just cut multiple passes with my band saw to get the lip slot. I figure a little play give the epoxy more room to work.

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If you make multiple passes with the bandsaw to cut the slot, how do you ensure that the lip is aligned properly is there is extra material cut out? Did you need to make a jig for each style lip to ensure it is positioned correctly? Or do you have to shave the lip and tune it to get it track correctly? In my first post I said that I have bought handmades and had to tune and tinker with some of them for a while in order to get them to run straight. Some of the baits I bought had lips that were skewed off to one side or on a slight angle horizontally and the baits ran on their sides no matter what you did to them. I turned two into keychains because they were useless. I may be trying to do accomplish something that cannot be done. I want to setup jigs to make perfect cuts 99% of the time and be able to line the lip up properly every time without having to play around with them to get them to track straight. I asked a couple of guys that sell baits online about their system and they are as tight lipped as a bass on the second day after a cold front. They wont open up their mouths for nuthin'. I just dont want to spend countless hours doing something to only find out later that there was an easier and better way to do it. Maybe I need to pay my dues and grunt through all of the wrong ways until I figure it out myself. I would think that there is a blade out there that is 3/32" wide to make a perfect cut for a lip that is 1/8" thick. I have not found one yet, but hopefully I will. Any comments would be appreciated.

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There are many ways that will work I customized an English shop vice to fit onto a band saw. I place the bait in the vice and slide it up to the blade and run it up to the depth stop works fine. was a pain to design but it works relatively well just make sure you use a wider blade say 1/2" to 3/4" blade Tried the 3/8" blade but it would wander on occasion. The reason alot of guys are tight lipped is that they don't want someone taking $$ out off of their pocket. Personally I will share info with someone that has a problem and has attempted to solve it but has come up short, most of what I have learned has come from trial and error. I literally get a bunch of emails each week form someone wanting to know how to do this or do that. Mostly I refer them to this site and let them find the info here that is pertinent. I rarely answer emails as I have no idea who or where the emails are coming from!! JMHO

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I really appreciate the advice. I am attempting to make roughly the same baits you sell. Boy thats funny. I looked at your link. You're the expert! :D . The difference is that I do not want to sell my baits. When I say that, I do mean that I would not or will not sell any of them. I want to make a handful for me and my brother to use for tournament fishing. To me the process I have went through so far to make one is worth way more than $20. You do really nice work and the paint jobs are fantastic. I have looked at different styles of Balsa baits flat and round and have decided to try and make a few flat ones. I developed a body profile based on a Homemade that was given to me a bunch of years ago. I have bought a few handmades but had more trouble with some of them that I decided to try and make my own. I had my brother CNC machine a blank DO-IT mold for the belly weights and the seem like they will work well. The only part I am hung up on is the lip. I bought a few Lexan sheets and have cut out the profiles. I have seen thinner circuit board lips about 1/16 thick but I have not been able to find out where to purchase them. These seem like you could make a standard cut with a bandsaw and just push the lip in without making multiple cuts. Anyways, I thank you for your help. I will try it. If you care to comment on anything I have said please feel free to. I am always willing tolearn something new. Thanks,

Jim

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Jim, you can buy polycarbonate at 1/16 thickness and circuit board at 1/32 thickness. Trial and error is the best teacher for cutting lip slots.

I cut mine on a scroll saw and it takes to passes to fit 1/16 lip into the slot.

If I use a 1/32 lip then just one pass. Make sure you are cutting the lip slot while the bait is still a square pice of stock. With balsa wood you can use a small metal fingernail file to dress up the slots. Be prepared for mistakes because those will happen.

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I cut my lip slots at the same time that I cut out my body shapes. I usually stack and cut 6 baits at a time. Now if I only could cut symetrical round lips I'd be happy.

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