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Devcon 2T

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Normally an Envirotex user purchased some Devcon 2T at the local model shop to try, Mixed by weight to 50/50 as per instructions, turnd to gel after 5-8 mins so cannot paint onto lures, Is there any way to slow the setting of the mixture so I can finish more than 3 lures before the setting takes place ??

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Some guys have reported putting the mixed devcon on some ice after mixing with good results...have not tried this myself but you might give it a try. The other thing you can do is go ahead and put the stuff on once it turns a bit "sticky" and then hit with a torch to get it smoothed out.

jed

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Yup, an ice bath will prolong the cure but it also thickens the consistency somewhat.

Adding Acetone in small increments will thin the epoxy & retard the cure which is a couple of envirotex's strongsuits,....longer working time & thinner consistency, but it also breaks down the hardness of the epoxy,.... one of Devcon's strongsuits.

JMO

I think my record on an unaltered batch of devcon 2-ton was 8 baits.

if you still want the high-build & strength, only mix enough epoxy to to coat about half a dozen baits at a time.

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What do you guys use to apply it ot the bait without it leaving streaks from the brush? I applied some tonight on my first bait and you can see lines from the brush. I used the 30 minute set Devcon.

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I use flux brushes to apply my epoxy. After it's on the lure I heat it for 3 or 4 seconds with a hot air gun then brush it again. this thins the epoxy and allows it to flow out evenly. be careful though as too much heat will cause the paint to soften and bubble.

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I use a brush from Wal Mart in the kit sections that is about 1/4" wide. I also use the brushes that you can purchase in the craft dept that are about 2.00 for 20 or so. I like the ones that are all plastic. Some times I clean them with some thinner, but most of the time I just dispose of them. You need to rotate the bait either by hand or on a dryer. I have never had brush marks, as the 2 ton will level out.

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I guess I stated the wrong thing. The bait has dried and I do not see any brushmarks but the Devcon is uneven and wavy looking on the bait. Also, does anyone know how to hide the edges of a foiled bait. I put the foil on and it went on great. After it set, I applied a coat of epoxy and airbrushed the back of the bait but you can see the crease from the edge of the foil. Do I need to put on more than one coat to hide the foil seam? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

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OK Dude...... here is the deal. The best way to apply Devcon is one bait at a time. There have been folks that can do more, but it is a rush rush thing. Take your time and do it right. If you miss covering anything on the lure with the clearcoat then the lure will be ruined once water gets to the wood. The curing of Devcon can be slowed by getting it to around 42 degrees. It can stay liquid for a couple of days at that temp. But..... you cannot spread it on the lure. The stuff is way too thick. It has a real hard time leveling out on the drying wheel at that temp. also. Plus the speed of the drying wheel would have to be slowed down for it to work correctly. The perfect temp. for applying Devcon is 70 - 75 deg. Below 65 deg. it starts to thicken and can give you some problems untill you get use to working with it. Above 75 is fine but it will cure quicker. You will have to be a little quicker putting it on. If you really need to do allot of lures at one time then you need to find something else. Thinning Devcon is not the way to go. It is best in its natural state. There are thinner epoxies that you can use. However, you usually have to mix them up and let them sit for awhile so that they get to the consistancy to spread it on with a brush. They also take a longer time to cure and possibly require multiple coats. So as far as saving time.... it is not much better.

squigster,

Your problem is due to the fact that you either took too long applying the Devcon, you did not use a drying wheel, your wheel is not rotating at the right speed ( around 6 rpm ), or the brush that you used was not the right stiffness. Learning to apply any clearcoat takes time, patience, and practice. Pick a clearcoat and learn to use it correctly. Then if you want, you can then try another type or brand of clearcoat. But you will save yourself allot of grief if you pick one thing and stick to it and learn to use it. Trust me.

Skeeter

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Thanks to all , I Obviously did not allow for such a large ammount of differance between the two coating formulations, I normally mix around 50gms of e-tex to coat 8 muskie baits (7-8 inch), with the devcon I did go on the safe side and only mix 16 gms amd managed to coat one 7 inch bait and 2 @ 5inches before the mix gelled too far for use , that is the downside the upside was that the lure finish it turned out just as good as the e-tex but maybe a little thicker and was finished in 3 hours against 24 with the e-tex, without extensive field testing both systems look equally good , If nothing else I have a method to "fast track" a lure if ever required

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Even though the bait is dry to the touch at three hours, it will not fully cure untill 12 hrs. You could probably use the bait after 8 hrs of curing, but it will not be as tough .

Skeeter

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I do not have a drying wheel maybe why that is part of the problem. I did relaize later that the 1st Epoxy I used was 5 minute set and I think that just never smoothed out enough and I applied two more coats of 30 minute devcon over it, Probably my mistake. This drying wheel that you are talking about, how can I make one? I believe that motors are available in Netcraft mounted for about $65.00 for a 6 rpm one. Is this what you guys use? Any ideas on a drying wheel would be appreciated. Thank You!

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You can research drying wheels on TU Search section.

There are several different drying wheels, and you can make one for as little as $10 and up from there.

No one minds helping but a lot of your questions are in the search section. You will have to do a little reading.

then if you have a specific question on something you do not understand fire away.

Hope this helps

Charlie M

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Hi Charlie,

No problem with doing the search. I was looking after the last post and found a few ideas. Thank You. I have searched the site a bunch of times, but I get aggravated when you do a search and find a post to read, I read it and then hit the back button on my browser to go to the list again and they all dissappear and you have to search all over again. After about 3 or 4 times I get annoyed and quit. Maybe I am doing something wrong?

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for 30 min devcon... do you REALLY need a drying wheel... or can you hand turn it....

You don't absolutely need a drying wheel for devcon. You can hand turn it, or hang the plug by the nose, wait 5 minutes, and flip it and hang from the tail.

Andrew

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if you put the devcon on thin, you dont need a drying wheel. also, all you need is a drop the size of a pencil eraser of each compound to do a bait.....i have done dozens of them. I put the devcon in a dixie cup, stir it for a minute, spread it on a bait with a disposable, wal-mart, orange paintbrush, turn the lure for about a minute (if that), then hang it up. the next morning, they are ready to go. sometimes you miss a spot or two and have to go over them again, but i guess that's the downfall of it all.

adding glitter to the devcon will make your lures sparkle like no other.....put your fingertip in the glitter and then put it in the devcon.....too much will ruin a bait in a second!

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I have been a loyal Etex type user, but recently in an effort mostly to provide several others with best method for using 2-T Devcon I have been learning... first off, I mark the syringe into 1/4 inch increments, then I empty 1/4 into a mixing cup and after mixing I add a measured ammount (just under 1/8 teaspoon) of something called Ellis 80 quick set reducer. Reducer is the way to go with epoxies, Acetone and Laquer thinner "soften" and compromise the integrity of curing of epoxy, but reducer seems to thin and evaporate after application without any unwanted effects. I am sure you could go to a good paint shop and buy actual epoxy reducer, but I had a gallon of this product to experiment with and found it works well for me. The can says it provides excellent flow and gloss, and I agree, it seems to have no effects other than to keep the 2-T workable and actually brush on smoother, yet not lose the ability to get a good even coating when dried on a wheel. other benefits, as the reducer evaporates it cools the epoxy, and it also helps epoxy "de-gas" meaning after mixing the bubbles easily float and are popped by simply blowing lighty on them.

Ok, so here is what I found... out of one syringe, I can coat right around 10 bass sized (2.5 inch cranks) per 1/4 of thinned 2-T, meaning I can get 40 baits coated out of one package, and with very nice results, and much faster curing time than etex. depending on time you take to coat each lure, you may find the epoxy remaining of the 1/4 in cup getting too thick, all you have to do is add the next 1/4 and another measured ammount of reducer and just keep right on coating... after some practice I was able to get this output using an entire syringe to complete 40 baits in much under an hour (nearing 40 minutes).

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A drying wheel will make the clearcoat more uniform and level from head to tail but I've also just hung baits by the bill and let Devcon 2T cure without turning. It still levels out OK and a few drops may drip off in warm weather, but the overall clearcoat looks fine.

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