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johnnytheboy

wood substitute

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Hi There,

I was wondering if anyone knows of any kind of wood substitute, any kind of plastic that could be filed, drilled, sanded, weighted etc whether it be something from stock or something you could pour into a rough mould then finish of shaping and filling

I have seen the ideas of casting the weights and hook hangers etc into plastics but thought this might be abit complicated to start of with, something that was workable would be a godsend

Its just we could save alot of hastle with wood having to seal it then worrying about the paint all cracking off old lures that may take on water once chipped

anyone came across any plastic that are reasonably workable????

Tightlines John

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I have toyed with various products over the last year or so with mixed results. What I found at least for the musky baits I have built is that the weakest link is always the clear coat. It doesn't matter if you are using wood or plastic for the body, once the water gets past the clear coat you are doomed!! I am interested to see where this thread goes tho.

jed

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Hi There' date='

I was wondering if anyone knows of any kind of wood substitute, any kind of plastic that could be filed, drilled, sanded, weighted etc whether it be something from stock or something you could pour into a rough mould then finish of shaping and filling

I have seen the ideas of casting the weights and hook hangers etc into plastics but thought this might be abit complicated to start of with, something that was workable would be a godsend

Its just we could save alot of hastle with wood having to seal it then worrying about the paint all cracking off old lures that may take on water once chipped

anyone came across any plastic that are reasonably workable????

Tightlines John[/quote']

JTB, I put up a Tutorial on just that subject in the Knowledge Base. It's a basic read but there are many of us here who are molding plugs, too.

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husky, that process you have there would be ideal, what i would be interested in is something along those lines without the harness in the bait (glueing or scewing in traditional lure eyes would be handy) so i could drill away quite happily to add weights and not have to worry about damaging the internal wires with the drill

the idea occured to me with one of my lures, its a luhr jensen ac plug as soon as i got it the paint and topcoat fell off the diving surface exposing the plastic underneath (white stuff) none of the rest of the lure or the inside of the lure has been affected, the stuff it is made from looks drillable etc and this lure floats (i don't know if its hollow or not) which would seem ideal, also it seems strong enough to put upwith the beating a pike lure takes

it was 25 quid as well so i'm not for cutting it up to see either 8O

jed, have you had any reasonable results with the plastics???

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husky' date=' that process you have there would be ideal, what i would be interested in is something along those lines without the harness in the bait (glueing or scewing in traditional lure eyes would be handy) so i could drill away quite happily to add weights and not have to worry about damaging the internal wires with the drill

the idea occured to me with one of my lures, its a luhr jensen ac plug as soon as i got it the paint and topcoat fell off the diving surface exposing the plastic underneath (white stuff) none of the rest of the lure or the inside of the lure has been affected, the stuff it is made from looks drillable etc and this lure floats (i don't know if its hollow or not) which would seem ideal, also it seems strong enough to put upwith the beating a pike lure takes

it was 25 quid as well so i'm not for cutting it up to see either 8O

jed, have you had any reasonable results with the plastics???[/quote']

JTB,

Once you know how much ballast is needed and where it is to be placed, you can attach it to the harness and your lure will need no addditional work after casting. Cliff depicts thre process in one of his posts. It's on page 2 of the following thread.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4311&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=wire&start=15

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the only problem i can see with this is i don't make all lures the same i weight them diffrently to work in diffrent ways, plus the weight is pretty low down in the bait, mould wise its exactly along the line of what i'm looking to do

i don't know what this foam you are using is but would it work as a wood subsitute, i.e. is it strong enough not to be wired through and just glue the screw eyes in place??

has anyone any idea wat this luhr jensen ac plug is made out of, it also looks pretty solid stuff

one last question i was gonna ask are the pig lures plastic, i have some suspending piglets and they look like they may have had a hole drilled for front weight??

tightlines john

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the only problem i can see with this is i don't make all lures the same i weight them diffrently to work in diffrent ways' date=' plus the weight is pretty low down in the bait, mould wise its exactly along the line of what i'm looking to do

i don't know what this foam you are using is but would it work as a wood subsitute, i.e. is it strong enough not to be wired through and just glue the screw eyes in place??

has anyone any idea wat this luhr jensen ac plug is made out of, it also looks pretty solid stuff

one last question i was gonna ask are the pig lures plastic, i have some suspending piglets and they look like they may have had a hole drilled for front weight??

tightlines john[/quote']

Once you know where the ballast will go for varying configurations, you can just change its' placement. The foam is 16lb wt expanding urethane foam. I never use screw eyes in it but I can attest to it's strength. It can take a hammer hit and not break.

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will it sand and drill ok???

It drills fine' date=' but if you sand it very much, you'll need to give it a few dips in Tally's plasticoat. (Another Tutorial)

does the foam absorb water once cured??

NO, it's impervious to water.

think i might give it a bash[/quote']

Welcome aboard, Foamie.

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