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lexan lips and screw eyes
9 replies to this topic
Posted 18 May 2005 - 08:07 PM
Maybe you guys can help. What im wondering is, do you put your lip in and screw eyes before you start the process of sealing, painting, and finish coat. Reason im asking is, im having tremendous epoxy crackage and peeling. I been putting them in after the final paint just before the epoxy finish.
Posted 18 May 2005 - 08:31 PM
Hmmmm... Am I correct to assume that the cracking occurs sometime after you've had the lure in water? Sounds like your might have a leak someplace. Water will get in, cause the wood to swell, thus cracking paint and clear coat.
I'm aware that people build lures both ways. Some put the beak in and then tape over it before painting. Others, like me and you, get the lure ready for the clear coat, mount the beak and then apply the final coat.
Maybe the wood you're using is still green? Treated lumber, like deck planks, seems to never dry out.
You might try cutting and sanding the body. Also cut the slot for the beak and drill the holes for screweyes. Give the body a dip in spar urethane and let it dry good. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper, paint, attach the beak, then clearcoat.
Posted 19 May 2005 - 07:16 AM
I put my hook hangers and line tie in first, then seal and paint. Then the lip goes in and top coat goes on. In my limited experience, cracking epoxy comes from water getting to the wood. Sometimes you'll have a small pin hole from an air bubble that you miss and that is all it takes for water to get under the topcoat.
Posted 19 May 2005 - 02:31 PM
I prefer to epoxy all hardware in place first, seal the bait, begin the painting process & finally the clearcoat.
Posted 19 May 2005 - 03:32 PM
I cut the lip slot right after the body is sanded. I then install line tie/hook hangers and seal the lure. Next I prime and paint, install diving lip, and finally clear coat with Envirotex Lite.
Posted 19 May 2005 - 07:04 PM
I've been using Poplar that was bought from Home Depot. Most of the baits I made, I put in the screw eyes in last there by leaving an opening for water to get in then failure. What I don't understand is other Musky style baits out there on the market get chewed to hell, exposing bare wood. And these baits stay together, other then the chew spots. My steps now im trying is
1. seal with kilz white
2. final paint
3. add hardware (screw eyes, lip)
4. devcon epoxy final
Letting each step that requires drying at least 24 hrs.
Posted 01 June 2005 - 06:07 AM
hi just noticed your post. poplar is not a good woodfor water. it swells lika a ball park frank. one thing you can never completely seal a bait. water will get in after some usage. apply a good sealer after your lips cut and screw holes drilled. harder clear coats have a tendency to crack over time. eg. automotive clears. if on plastic they are fine but with wood theres always the moisture factor
Posted 01 June 2005 - 08:11 PM
Hey,another Michigan muskie guy! I would switch to a wood like cedar or honduras mahagony,I know there are others that will work,but those 2 woods I know do. I would also use epoxy or gorilla glue when putting in screw eyes to help hold and seal out moisture.
Posted 01 June 2005 - 09:10 PM
5 minute epoxy or seal all works well. when putting lips in scuff the part that goes into the bait. it will hold 10 times better