Jump to content
muskiehound

lexan lips and screw eyes

Recommended Posts

Maybe you guys can help. What im wondering is, do you put your lip in and screw eyes before you start the process of sealing, painting, and finish coat. Reason im asking is, im having tremendous epoxy crackage and peeling. I been putting them in after the final paint just before the epoxy finish.

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmmm... Am I correct to assume that the cracking occurs sometime after you've had the lure in water? Sounds like your might have a leak someplace. Water will get in, cause the wood to swell, thus cracking paint and clear coat.

I'm aware that people build lures both ways. Some put the beak in and then tape over it before painting. Others, like me and you, get the lure ready for the clear coat, mount the beak and then apply the final coat.

Maybe the wood you're using is still green? Treated lumber, like deck planks, seems to never dry out.

You might try cutting and sanding the body. Also cut the slot for the beak and drill the holes for screweyes. Give the body a dip in spar urethane and let it dry good. Sand lightly with fine sandpaper, paint, attach the beak, then clearcoat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put my hook hangers and line tie in first, then seal and paint. Then the lip goes in and top coat goes on. In my limited experience, cracking epoxy comes from water getting to the wood. Sometimes you'll have a small pin hole from an air bubble that you miss and that is all it takes for water to get under the topcoat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using Poplar that was bought from Home Depot. Most of the baits I made, I put in the screw eyes in last there by leaving an opening for water to get in then failure. What I don't understand is other Musky style baits out there on the market get chewed to hell, exposing bare wood. And these baits stay together, other then the chew spots. My steps now im trying is

1. seal with kilz white

2. final paint

3. add hardware (screw eyes, lip)

4. devcon epoxy final

Letting each step that requires drying at least 24 hrs.

Jim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi just noticed your post. poplar is not a good woodfor water. it swells lika a ball park frank. one thing you can never completely seal a bait. water will get in after some usage. apply a good sealer after your lips cut and screw holes drilled. harder clear coats have a tendency to crack over time. eg. automotive clears. if on plastic they are fine but with wood theres always the moisture factor

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey,another Michigan muskie guy! I would switch to a wood like cedar or honduras mahagony,I know there are others that will work,but those 2 woods I know do. I would also use epoxy or gorilla glue when putting in screw eyes to help hold and seal out moisture.

Tom

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top