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fatfingers

Masking tape alternatives...rubber cement and vaseline

19 posts in this topic

For applying Envirotech to lures with the lip already in place (both new and repaint jobs), I tried applying vaseline to the lip so that any excess clear coat would not stick to the lip. It works great.

I also tried rubber cement for masking the lip prior to applying the paint with the airbrush. It worked okay, but you cannot touch the lip during the painting process or the rubber cement tends to separate. Its also a bit tougher to remove the rubber cement than you might thing after it has a few coats of overspray on it, but I will continue to try tweak it and see what happens

The vaseline works great for envirotech on the lure lip. I'm also going to try applying it to the hook hangers to see if it will make it easier to clean off the excess Envirotech when the finish if completely cured and done.

The rubber cement...well, the jury stills out on that one.

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How do you prevent the Vaseline from breaking down into the finish...possibly contaminating the ETEX and weakening the finish on a good area of the lure? Why dont you want a little ETEX to over lap the bill or lip? I have never experienced a problem with an 1/8 of an inch overlap and always thought it would help to waterproof the bait.

Denatured alcohol cleans lips and works great as a paint cleanup. I am very interested in finding something that will keep the hook hangers clear and free of etex while drying on a drying wheel.

Just cant risk contamination of the other surface areas of the bait...

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What happens when the epoxy ETEX or DCON drys around the tape? How do you get it off? I can see this for paint...just not having an easy time with the epoxy? Seems it would be permanently secured around the hanger.

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Tbait,

I use a pocket knife to trim the epoxy around the tape edge and pull the tape off. If any of the epoxy gets under the tape it will only be in the eye of the hanger and will push out with ease.

Tuff-Tackle

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I used to have no problem with hook hangers and for that matter still get by. However I used to use Stainless wire for my thru wire design. Since then I have completely switched to Copper. As we all no copper can be cut very easily with a pocket knife. The advantage is "hunting". I guess I will continue to very carefully clean the eyes of the hook hangers out. I have been using a very small dremel bit to punch thru....it works fine...just looking for a better way.

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I use brass wire on my lures and haven't had any problems. You don't need a sharp knife nor does it take alot of pressure to trim.

Tuff-Tackle

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I've had luck by putting a small dab of the non-hardening modeling clay on on the hook hangers, being careful to keep it off of the lure body so that it doesn't affect the the painting or clear coating. It pops off with a dull knife and there is no dried clear coat to clean off. It sure beats the old way I did it with melted candle wax to protect the hook eyes on poppers for fly fishing.

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Why are you guys leaving the tape on after painting?? Remove the tape after you get done painting and clearcoat, I overlap the clear onto the lip about 1/16". this will further strengthen the lip in the slot and also prevent any water intrusion that might seep in if there are any areas missed when sealing the bait before priming. Also if you are experiencing problems removing clearcoat from the line tie and hook hangers take one of your old dull exacto blades and heat it up on a propane torch and purge it through the hole in the hook hanger, then clean up the remainder with the dremel wire brush, works like a charm and leaves the hook hangers and line tie intact without any cuts or blemishes

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I just mask the bill with masking tape...I've also used foil, but prefere the tape. After painting, I then remove the tape and top coat a 1/16-1/8" overlap on the bill.

Hook hangers I trim off the top coat with a paper clip for the first 10 min or so on the drying wheel. Then if any when completed, I nip it off with a razor knife.

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This would be a great time to say I use (edited by anti-hostility software) for my topcoat and I don't have the above stated problems! :P

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You could never convince me to use Devcon.

Never............never..........aint happening.

you must not have heard that story I told about that Yellowish white looking FORD truck that I saw the other day........It had a DEVCON sign on its side. :-D Darndest thing I ever saw!

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I'm trying alternatives to masking tape because it can be a hassle to get it on and off.

The rubber cement seems to work okay for masking the lexan lip prior to painting but you have to be careful not to get to rough with the rubber cement during the painting process because it rubs off rather easily. It seems to work pretty well though.

I've been trying vaseline after painting and during the application of envirotex and yes, I do hold it back a safe distance from the area onto which I'm applying the e-tex and I do overlap the etex onto the lexan lipl a little to assure a good seal.

If any of the etex does touch the lexan in a area other than desired, the vaseline prevents it from sticking to the lexan and marring it.

As I say, I'm just trying something new, hoping to find a shortcut over masking tape.

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You could never convince me to use Devcon.

Never............never..........aint happening.

you must not have heard that story I told about that Yellowish white looking FORD truck that I saw the other day........It had a DEVCON sign on its side. :-D Darndest thing I ever saw!

The yellowish white color is known as Bone!!! A popular color on crankbaits and is now catching on for vehicles!!! LOL

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Melt some wax ( the type used in canning ) in a sausepan, dip the lip of your bait down in to this melted wax as far as you prefer, let dry, then apply your epoxy clearcoat, when clearcoat is dry dip the lip on your bait in some very WARM water, this melts the wax and removes it from your lip. Just be careful when you first dip the lip of the bait and not get any on the body part of your bait, epoxy will not stick to the wax. As for hook hangers, I personally prefer to let a little paint and clearcoat remain on them, I just drill the hole out enough to let my split ring and hook swing freely. WORKS FOR ME

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I use one of two products:

- EZ Mask by Ambroid, used alot in model painting to 'mask' off areas. Very rubbery and peels off easily

- Mold Builder Liquid Latex Rubber by ETI. easily peels off as well.

Both can be found at local stores like Hobby Lobby and such. Quick and easy to apply with a small brush. I put it on an hour or so before painting and peel it off after paint has dried and before the topcoat.

btdt

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Thanks, beentheredonethat. I'll have to give that a try.

Overall, I was disappointed in the rubber cement. It is very "sensitive" during the painting process and seems to come off a bit too easily if you handle it while painting.

Now I have yet another excuse to go shopping for more supplies and materials! :D:D:D

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