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kbkindle

kbkindle going to give this a try?

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kb ihave been a out body shop owner for 40 years and a winter time wood worker for 20. ia'm retiered and going to try and make some wood cranks. going to try and paint lures as a auto useing a 2 part hardned light color primer, clear coat paint it has no shine till you spray a hardned clear coat finish.has any body tryed this?????/

what is your take on this? kb

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Using car paints will work just fine. The only problem is the automotive clears. They don't seem to hold up too well, especially when the crankbait is thrown around rock. I have talked to paint jobbers and they feel that you could put some kind of flex additive to the clear to help make it more durable. Many of the old bait makers used alpha - cryl as a clearcoat. But the EPA banned it due to the fact that it contained lead. They did away with it about 3 yrs. ago. Personally I think any type of epoxy clearcoat is the best.

Skeeter

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When I was making hard baits(about 10 years ago) that's the paint I used and it worked just fine. You have to reduce it down to get it through the airbrush and you may have to puy 2 coats of clrear to get the depth. Also you can include super fine glitter in the first clear coat.

Had a buddy who worked in a body shop and he would bring me part cans of paint. Sometimes I would mix 2 or 3 different colors together and come up with a unique color.

Hope this helps. :)

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I think auto paint is the way to go! I have used just about any auto paint you can think of to paint lures. However, I haven't used any 2-part or epoxy primers on wood lures. I use regular high build lacquer primer on some and white un-catalyzed acrylic enamel for primer on others. I have had no delamination problems with the Chromabase shot over lacquer primer or enamel paint. Something else that might be of use to you... Chromabase can be cut and shot with lacquer thinner, instead of reducing with reactive reducer. Lacquer clear and urethane clear will lay down over chroma base that was applied without reactive reducer with no problems. Glad to have you aboard!

Regards

Dan

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I use Devcon just as Tally. The thing that we all want to do is shoot the clearcoat. Brushing and rotating is just tedious. But...... there is just nothing tougher than an epoxy clearcoat. Devcon, Etex, and Brand XXX, it just doesn't matter as long as it is a high grade of epoxy. Auto clears just plain chip and tear down much quicker than epoxy. I don't care how expensive the clear is. All paints..... water, lacquer, and enamel work just fine with the epoxies. There are other things to use, but the cost is outrageous for most of us. I have watched many folks pass through this site with all kinds of ideas for clearcoats. Many claimed that they were going to come out with their own super special clearcoats. I haven't seen them offer it yet. I have also listened to the folks that say they spray epoxy through their airbrush. Maybe..... but it is way more trouble than it is worth. Use whatever paint that you like. There is a TON of tallent on this site with different types of paints. But use some form of epoxy for your clearcoat.

Skeeter

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kb here not even going to give my idea of useing auto clear will stick with devcon 2 ton that's what i like about this site. you can ask a question and know you are getting a answer from guys that have the knowledge and are willing to tell you. i just hope i can put in some input to site thanks again kb

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