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10 replies to this topic
Posted 23 July 2005 - 07:59 AM
I'm lookin for a small quality heatgun - bending lexan, debubbling devcon...you know. What do you fellers use and are happy with?
Posted 23 July 2005 - 09:40 AM
I've always had good luck with this model. Keeps the Mosquitos down, too.
I hear BIG TIME BUILDERS, like CC use it because they're just so busy.
Posted 23 July 2005 - 12:19 PM
Try visiting a model RC shop that carries RC airplains. They should have a heat gun there. They use it to shrink the coverings on the planes.
Posted 25 July 2005 - 03:27 PM
For degassing.....not sure about doing this for Devcon. I am thinking..this will decrease the amount of time you have to work with the glue. Another comment is that a hairdryer will push out whatever it takes in to its intake...meaning dust etc. I prefer a torch myself... jmo
Posted 25 July 2005 - 03:35 PM
A SMD Reworking Station is a good alternative to regular heat guns for small stuff. Available from electronics shop.
However Husky's solution would be best if u need to work in a hurry, or bending polycarbonate in ur mother-in-law's house??? :grin:
Posted 25 July 2005 - 07:49 PM
It isn't the heat, but the CO2 that degasses epoxy...heat guns are relatively easy to find; hardware stores, craft stores etc,.
Posted 25 July 2005 - 09:58 PM
Thanks guys. I use a small torch for 'degassing' final finish and for bending lexan. Lexan bends but bubbles up - too fine a line between pliable lexan and bubbles. I thought a heat gun would have a more controllable heat span but maybe I should save my money. Also I didn't think about blowing unfiltered air at my wet finish. Thanks for letting me know that its the CO2 that degasses. My breath works, but I get light headed too quickly, he he, so I started using a torch, Thought it was the heat. How do you fellers bend lexan? I'm bending Netcraft bills with the tow tie on the bill. Thanks for the replies, Also I got quite a laugh from the flamethrower, he he.
Posted 26 July 2005 - 05:47 AM
What I use for lips, is not exactly Lexan, but should be pretty similar stuff, called Axpet, from Bayer. I make just straight, slightly curved lips, not complicated shapes.
I use a template for bending. You need two cylindrical objects as template, that fit into each other, with enough clearance between them to accomodate the plastic strip/sheet. I use two glass beakers, used in laboratory.
I cut a strip from the plastic sheet with a length of the circumference of the smaller beaker, and width of the length of lips to be made. Bend the strip into a circle, put into the bigger beaker, and fasten with the smaller one to fit closely around the glass wall. I hope you can imagine it, in spite of my poor explanation :-D
After that I put it into a lab heating oven for a minute or so, then remove and let it cool. I think that household cooking oven will do the same.The suitable temperature for my material was 100-120 C, but it may differ with Lexan. I hope that you or others can adopt this method for Lexan as well.
Posted 26 July 2005 - 08:31 AM
I am aware that the directions say Co2 is what take the gas bubbles out of Etex. But I think there is more to it.
Thickness of the topcoat.
Let me start by saying the initial heating of etex up to about 20 or 30 minutes will turn this stuff into practically water. I wont argue that you can breathe on etex and get rid of the bubbles. However I have found a better way. As you begin to heat the surface of the bait and the etex begins to run like crazy. the thinning of the epoxy and running actually allows the bubbles to get to the surface easier. Yes you have to continually rotate the bait because the etex is wanting to drip off however it gives you a much cleaner finish and virtually bubble free. Once heated and happy with the degassing...put on the drying wheel. The thinner etex allows the bubbles to escape faster and easier. A bubble would reach the surface faster in water than lets say syrup. A much thinner viscosity is created by heating. I have not tried heating devcon, but tend to think that this would expedite the set of the epoxy thickening the viscosity versus thinning. I dont use devcon other than for glueing bills in place. Perhaps some of the regular users of devcon could jump in here.
I think if I had the time and spare change I would get with Richoc again and get his prescription. I think he is on to something with superheating etex. An initial thinner viscosity allowing the bubbles to rise and escape and a super fast cure time... I believe he said 20 minutes or less. He also thins the etex with something prior to heating that allows him to shoot through an airbrush if needed. Again thinning should aid in relief of the bubbles.
Bubbles can escape easier with a lower viscosity topcoat. If the bubbles dont reach the surface or near the surface... all of the Co2 in the world wont help you.
Posted 26 July 2005 - 05:40 PM
Could someone direct me to some links regaarding the co2 bubble reducing??