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Feather Lite problem (???)

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Hello guys,

Been working on some new projects. Hope show them here soon :)

Recently I've received FeatherLite and what I saw when I opened cans:

feather.jpg

and closer look:

feather2.jpg

both parts are the same consistence. The shop where I've ordered said that it is ok. Just need to stir well each part before mixing... but I have no idea how can I get liquid from "well frozen icecream" consistence

I know that someone of you are working with Featherlite. Shawn help me!!! :D

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what you are seeing is the glass microspheres that give it its bouancy. They float to the top and "cake" together. If you poke though it you will find a very viscous liquid underneath. Its the only part I don't like, but the good out weighs the bad. I use a mixing rod attached to my cordless drill to mix.

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hey thanks guys :!:

it is clear that not only Shawn is working with FeatherLite :D

thanks again.

BTW - some time ago there was lots of posts about working with foam, lots of foamie photos. What is it now? Where are you foam guys!!! Show me what you've done, I will post some new baits I've made. One of those brought 1st place on local competition here in Lithuania...

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Hey Vy,

I appologize for missing your ?. Glad the guys chimed in to help. :) There's a few things about F-lite you need to know.

It is finicky to work with. The best tip I can give you about using it is if you open a can..... Use it all up within a few days. Pour it all. Freshness counts.

When F-lite gets old some blanks might look dry but will sweat uncured resins thru the paint and foul the lures. Even days later a lure will look fine but will develop a blister. So a lure looks fine. You mail it out and when the client gets it the lures got bumps.... :pissed:

resin-sweat.jpg

blister-welt.jpg

Smooth-on says the reason behind "resin sweats" is the product gets old quick. Part "A" is succeptable to air and moisture. Use "Xtend-it" dry gas If you don't use it all within the 1st week

When I use older F-lite I allow the blanks to air dry for at least 2 weeks before basecoat.

When it's fresh it works like a charm.

Shawn

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I've just tried FL. Everything was so.... :rolleyes:

I like Foam-it more. I can work with Foamit much more faster, I do not need stir it before each pour, I can demold it after 15-20 min. But....

I like FL because I don't need to use release agent each time, I like it because it is much stronger tha Foamit...

How quick can I demold FL? Do I have to wait 2 hrs? In the Foamit technical bulletin there is also 2 hrs demold time, but I can demold it 4 times sooner

Oh. and one more problem (???) does FetherLite expands or not? I have troubles in measuring proper amount of it, and first times I've demolded only heads of my lures :D

Thanks to you all guys!!!

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Hey Vy,

I demold my lures 50 mins to 1 hr after casting. If you demold too soon the blanks will get lumpy due to the slow expansion rate.

F-lite expands about 1/3rd it's original vol. To ensure a full cavity fill I cast the resin up to the sprue cone collar.

expanded.jpg

crosscut.jpg

To figure the amount of F-lite you'll need, fill the mold half with water then measure the water. For eg: if the water measures 2 drams then you'll need 4 drams total per lure.

Shawn

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hmmm.... so I see that I have to learn work with FL...

Another thing I've learned, that FL is much more heavier and I have to put less weight (all lures I've made with Foam-it weight formula became sinking :D )

BTW, here is my latest project I am working on:

435ea30e3b339.jpg

it is kind of jerkbait, little bit bent, suspending, all-ready caught some pike on it :)

435ea621b8735.jpg

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Damn cool looking lures Vy. Those photo finish done on foil?

Hey thanks LaPala :)

Those are photo finish, but not on foil. I've bought some nice blue pearl chameleon paint that is used for car painting. It gives fantastic glare and changes from blue to green depending on light angle ;)

And that golden one is simply golden-pearl auto paint.

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