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michael merrill

Machining blanks

7 posts in this topic

Do you fellas think that it is better to machine( ie.bill slot, weight cavity,line tie holes,etc.)while the blank is square,or after all the shaping is done?Do you see any potential problems with this idea?I ask because it seems like there should be a way to stop my bill slot from filling up with clearcoat.If I machined it after paint,how in the world could I not blow out the paint around the slot without excess time added.This has been haunting me for a very long time.There is a way,Im sure, I am just not bright enough,I guess, to figure it out.I have been known to overlook simple answers too,so,if it is, forgive the lack of sense.If it seems like I am anxious to learn lots of different things its because I ,as many others ,havent had so many answers that I would like to have,and I welcome new ideas from knowledgable people.thanx.

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I cut the slot for the lip before I shape the bait. That way the slot is square to the bait. Then I shape the bait and drill the holes for everything else. I paint the bait completely and then install the lip. After that I clearcoat the lure. How is the clearcoat getting in the lip slot on your bait? I do know some bait makers that do the lip slot after the bait is completely made. They have a mold that they put the bait into after it is completed and then run the bait through a table saw nose down to cut the slot. Then they glue in the lip.

Skeeter

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skeeter i do my baits almost same as you how do you clean slot after sealing the wood before paint. i dipp my balsa baits in a concoction of clear plastic spoons and lacquer thinner the only complaint with the way i do it the slots get filled with sealer and have to be cleaned out which sometimes causes problems of keeping slot square to the body.

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I don't seal my hardwood. Everyone is hung up on this sealing thing. Why????? With balsa I wipe on a coat of polyurethane, clearcoat the bare wood, and then paint over the clearcoat and then I clearcoat it again after painting. For hardwood I wipe on a coat of polyurethane, let it dry, sand, and then paint. If you clearcoat your lure then your lure is sealed. None of these products get into the lip slot. I use the polyurethane to close up some of the pores of the wood. It helps to keep air bubbles down. That is the only reason that I use it. Now someone that goes after Pike and other toothy critters may need to seal their wood. But I make crankbaits for bass, and bass don't crush lures. Skeeter

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heres how we do it. the lips are cut when the stock is squared not turned. when sealing and painting we install a piece of lewan-dummy lip. when the clears hard remove the dummy and install the lip. hope this helps

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I also drill very tiny eye holes completely through the bait while it is still square. That way, your eyes are always lined up.

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