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Shaping Wood Baits - ??
32 replies to this topic
Posted 21 November 2005 - 05:20 PM
So what is the advantage? Is it because of the flexibility of the inflatable material under the sand paper?
Posted 21 November 2005 - 10:50 PM
The middle of the cylinder deflects along with the abrasive giving a rounded sanding surface. I am looking to find one that is affordable. I do gliders (like Riverman's only not as pretty) and do the radius sanding on a drum in a drill press. Over the last few seasons of building this topic comes up often and I like many of you have tried different things including the file and scarey router. I saw this guy use one building skate boards on Discovery Channel. One pass on the drum and it was perfect! Granted the board was only abou 1/2" thick. Will post results if I find one that I can put in a drill press.
Posted 22 November 2005 - 05:15 PM
Hmmm, that is an interesting idea I hadn't heard of. I really don't mind using the router too much to be honest altho I would be the first to admit it is the the "most dangerous" tool I use, noisy too! I think just about everyone will get bit by a router if you use it long enough. It's kind of like driving in a big city, a wreck is inevitable at some point. Has anyone tried the model that Maddox mentioned?
Posted 22 November 2005 - 07:31 PM
Fellas,it has been my experience that inflatable drum sanders work well if your sanding hard(dense) woods.There are problems controlling the amount of give with any wood.I personally wouldn't trust my own pressure control with a soft wood,and I have been a woodworker for many years.Consistency would be an issue.The Baltic birch plywood that most skateboards are made of is very hard.Usually those drums are used for sanding irregular surfaces where the consistency between pieces isn't as critical as lure bodies.Different things work for different people though.I believe that specialized jigs are the way to go,no matter what tool is used.I still have all of my fingers also,because those jigs keep the digits at a safer distance from the cutter.A custom dressed grinder works well for the radius all the way around a flat sided lure.You need a slow rpm(200 to 700 works well) and a very coarse grit,say 50 or 60, or the wheel will load up with wood-esp. hardwoods.You can mount a right-angle type fixture to the deck that the grinder is mounted on so there is something to index your jig against.With a little ingenuity and patience until the jig works well,you should be able to completely round a lure in about fifteen or twenty seconds each,if you run enough at a time,with consistency.I wish I could post a pic for ya.One day not soon enough.I would also recommend doing a search on the topic of wood shaping because there are tons of things to read.
Posted 23 November 2005 - 08:53 AM
I will post results once I get to Columbus (Rockler) and get one of the drums. Until then I roughed a few glider bodies on the lath which gave very nice radii' when the rectangle was cented well on the spindles. Minimal sanding too! And since I have the lathe I thought I would try a more rounded profile similar to the manta bait. The flat sided gliders (divani) are still my favorites for flash but rounded baits (manta, old half-shaft) glide farther and belly wiggle better. Our local muskies are still hard after gliders so I can still try out the designs for about a month yet.
Posted 23 November 2005 - 09:34 AM
I agree with Michael on the sanders.
Unless you are working with a fairly dense wood I am unsure about the consistency of the radius. Woods like balsa would just get chewed up in no time.
Jigs are hand and finger savers. They also help increase productivity and insure consistency in your work. Cabinet makers have tons of jigs they rely on to keep there work consistence.
Riverman you have a PM?
Posted 24 November 2005 - 06:57 AM
I'm surprised Riverman is the only one that mentioned a rasp. I use a fairly fine flat rasp with a round on the other side. You can probably get the job done faster and with greater accuracy using a good rasp.
Posted 24 November 2005 - 03:41 PM
Just finished 4 this am. Took my template and traced it on rectangular pieces and turned them down, The radius was perfect and shaped up nice. Almost no hand sanding involved. Wont work for drop-bellied baits as well, but the symetrical designs are a snap. Even drilled one for a through wire even though I have no prob with screw eyes. The seal coat is curing now so it will be a day or so before I can show them. Will try to get a picture posted.
Posted 27 November 2005 - 01:58 PM
That sounds great jerkbait!
I would be very interested in seeing what you are talking about sometime. I tried something very similar and could never get it to work. I think the problem may have been with my router bit tho.
Posted 02 December 2005 - 01:04 PM
Some interesting ideas. I have used a Dremel router attachment on ice fishing rod handles like the Green Hornet from the movie Grumpy Ole Men. But think the smaller lures would be very hard to control. Giant muskie lures might work okay.
One idea I saw a while back is to use a piece of tubing or pipe (PVC or other) cut it in half length wise and us it as a backing/holder/guide for sand paper.
Myself, I use my trusty pocket knives on the white cedar lures, single edge razor blade and exacto knife on the balsa lures, then larger sanding boards used for finger nails. Those boards can be vacuumed during use and also washed and reused many times. Of course I'm not trying to do thousands of lures either.
Posted 02 December 2005 - 02:11 PM
For what it is worth, I tried the sandpaper in the tube idea...didn't work for me.
Posted 07 December 2005 - 09:40 AM
Here are some different body styles. Some are saw cut and hand sanded while 3 are lathe turned. The big orange one is 9" and 3oz. It also has a through wire that some prefer. The fish are following these baits well right now and I will post a catch as soon as I get a good picture.
Posted 08 December 2005 - 03:41 PM
I shaped about a half dozen baits with my rasp this week. It was good therapy shaping by hand but it took longer and the results were the same as sanding on the drum sander. The rasp made quick work of ceder but the hand sanding took longer because I had to remove the rasp marks.
My in-laws are getting me one of these for Christmas:
I am all for hand work, I do a lot of hand painting, but if a machine is better, quicker, faster, I am all for it.