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Problems with Createx Auto Air
18 replies to this topic
Posted 16 November 2005 - 11:33 AM
I received some Createx Auto Air yesterday and tried it for the first time. I sprayed three baits with the stuff and was happy with the way it performed. I wouldn't say it sprayed a whole bunch easier than the standard createx but it was better. Anyway, I put the baits in a warm room for about 2 hours to dry. Generally the createx is dry in 10 minutes so I felt two hours would be more than adequate for the Auto Air. I then applied Etex to the baits and to my disappointment all of them started to develop huge ripples in the clear. Basically the Auto Air is doing the same thing the taxidermy paint did to me. I have no idea what is causing this problem. I am not sure if it didn't cure far enough, if the etex is not compatible, or that the torch used to remove bubbles caused the problem. Major bummer tho, destroyed three hours worth of work. I'm scared now to try the Auto Air again.
Anyone have any ideas?
Posted 16 November 2005 - 12:56 PM
I havent experienced the problem with AA however have with other taxidermy paints. Have you heat set the paint with a blow dryer or flashed with a torch. What color AA were you using? I use the white, black, and interference colors.
You might find something on airbrush.com/forums in this regard as they use this product quite often and have many write ups on it. Possibly in regards to clearcoating after spraying AA. I would take a look for a quick answer.
Posted 16 November 2005 - 02:27 PM
I dont know if it will help for sure because when i used AA i didnt use etex, but try heat setting the auto air before clearing, just run a heat gun over it and you will see it get a matte finish. I suggest doing this any time you paint with auto air between coats and when your finished. It doesnt take much heat or a more than a couple of seconds to do.
Posted 16 November 2005 - 02:43 PM
When using etex you need to be in a room with the temp. at 73 or 74 degs. Humidity has a lot to do with etex.
Posted 16 November 2005 - 03:03 PM
Hmmm, well the room where the AA dried is probably 75+ degrees, it's where my fireplace insert is running. My etex drying room is generally at 75 degrees. I am stumped by this problem. I know it's not a reaction between my primer and the AA because these particular baits were foiled and the etexed so the AA went right on a dry layer of etex. Strange, I'm surprised someone here hasn't experienced the same problem.
Posted 16 November 2005 - 09:03 PM
Try putting it in a cool place below 73 deg. I think 75+ is to high for this to flow smooth. Are you putting them on a drying wheel? It could be a bad batch of etex, but I doubt it. Maybe the lower temp. will work if not I'm stumped also.
Posted 16 November 2005 - 09:52 PM
Thx guys. The etex did cure but it's got this horrible ripple to it. It is clear too but it's rippled, not sure how else to describe it. The black paint seems to be the worst....
Posted 17 November 2005 - 04:54 AM
Just saw your post here at work, 4:00am. I think you need to let the Auto Air cure overnight before coating the baits. You know what finish Jack and I use and he told me to never coat the baits the same day you paint them.He refers to what you are descrbing as lifting the paint. It is pulling away from the primer coat I think.
That huge bait on EBAY looks awesome. Very nice work.
Posted 17 November 2005 - 08:06 AM
I ran into the same problem a couple of years ago when using Flex Coat as a top coat over AA or Wasco lacquer paints. The problem does appear to be dark paint pigment sensitive. The top coats either Flex Coat or Etex would ?ripple? or form voids only in areas with black or dark paints. I painted a Fire Tiger that the top coat was perfect over the fluorescent colors but rippled over the black back and stripes. I solved this problem by spraying Wasco Wet Look clear over the entire bait before I topcoat. Flex Coat and Etex work well over all types of paints using this method. Other clears paints may also work for you. The ripple problem does not appear if us use a two part clear polyurethane. I currently use Etex due to price and availability over both lacquer and water based Wasco paints. Send me an email if you have any questions.
Posted 17 November 2005 - 09:39 AM
Straight from their website....
Auto Air Colors can be cured in a spray booth with air movement, by infrared heat lamps, or a heat gun
Curing in Spray Booth- A spray booth is the preferred environment for painting vehicles with the Auto Air Colors.
Bake paint at 120-150?F for 15-20 minutes or until colors are completely dried.
For quicker drying times, increase airflow rate and booth temperature.
Curing in Open Conditions- Recommended minimum temperature 70?F and low humidity. Curing Auto Air Colors in humid or cold damp conditions may require extended exposure to heat. Use airflow to speed up drying time. Cure when colors are wet or dry.
Auto Air Colors are cured with heat. Use heat gun or infra-red lamp to cure colors. If not curing with heat, allow colors ample time to dry prior to taping or clear coat application. Drying time will vary depending upon environment.
In Infra-red lamp (IR) ? allow lamp to cure colors at a safe distance generally over 12 inches to prevent blistering paint. Duration may vary from 5 ? 30 mins. coat buil-up, wetness and conditions. Cure colors dry to the touch without tack.
A heat gun is effective when curing smaller areas such as body panels, tanks, fenders, helmets, etc. Generally colors cure 1-2 minutes per square foot. Keep heat gun moving and at a safe distance of 6? or more to avoid blistering. Cure colors dry to touch without tack.
Posted 17 November 2005 - 12:33 PM
Wow, some great responses guys. I will try again and this time I will allow a couple days for the paint to completely dry. I don't want to get into a situation where I have to first "cure" the baits before clear coating. I would also prefer to not have to clear with something before going to the etex...takes too much time. Some great help from you guys. THANK YOU!
Posted 17 November 2005 - 05:32 PM
I seem to have had the same problem hen painting with oils.I sure lke using water based a lot more.Whole lot less clean up.The strange thing is I only had trouble with purples.I shoot a color scheme I call purple haze and every time I cleared it would run the paint right off the bait.At that time I wasnt using etex but a product very similar.I sure like the idea of a heat lamp in the spray booth.Thanks for the tip.
Posted 17 November 2005 - 07:07 PM
If you dont want to at least use a heat gun to set it you may want to use regular createx. There is catalyst in the AA and it needs the heat to set properly, it only takes a few seconds of heat from a heat gun to make all of the difference in the world, and then wait 24 hours before clearing.
Posted 17 November 2005 - 08:33 PM
So how hot does it have to get with the heat gun? And will the paint set up just sitting in warm room for 24 hours?
Posted 18 November 2005 - 12:14 AM
if you have a heat gun shoot a bait so that its wet and then run the heat gun over it and you can actually watch it catalyze before your eyes, you can see it turn a matte color, just air drying is not the same thing so sitting for 24 hours is not going to set it the same as heat. I dont know what temp it takes i use a paint stripper/heat gun on the low setting its hot but i dont know how hot. The exposure time to set the paint is very minimal.
Posted 18 November 2005 - 01:32 AM
Thx Cullin...since I don't have a heat gun I will give Marks advice a try and let one bait sit for at least 24 hours and see what happens.
Posted 18 November 2005 - 11:30 AM
Jed, heat gun on low will be pretty close to a hairdryer temp. Maybe u can bring those painted lures to a Hair Dresser