Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
finlander

different materials

24 posts in this topic

I have made lures form cedar and polywood. What else has been tried. Awhile back there was a post from someone who made lures from foamcore or foamboard. What bizarre materials has everyone tried?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't call them bizarre, but: basswood, yellow cedar, red cedar, white cedar, birch, maple, port orford cedar. Probably some others that I've tried over the years too.

Andrew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How's this? Made from a disposable razor handle, plastic beak, plastic beads, stainless steel through wire and a lead barrel sinker inside the handle.

ll_razorface.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recently tried a sample of Celtic Board (3/4" PVC foam Board). Lures ran great and doesn't soak up water. About the weight of mahogany and very hard, but easy to cut,route, and paint. Only downside so far is it's $186.00 for a 4' x 8' sheet (that's the smallest they will sell it). I could get close to 400 lures out of a sheet. Not a bad cost per lure, but haven't been able to put it to the muskie test yet. Cliff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...that is what I wanted to hear about. Legit, working lures made from something other than wood. I was hoping to jear from the foamcore guy, see how he attaches things to it, what adhesives he uses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i sent to ask for a small sample from the canadian rep. i will see where this takes me. will keep you guys posted

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We have discussed materials such as this several times on the board. I am surprised to be honest that the topic isn't brought up more often. Many of the plastics available to us now are superior in most ways to wood and similar in cost to the more expensive hardwoods. Plastic doesn't shrink or expand, is impervious to water and therefore doesn't require a sealer, generally comes in a variety of colors including white and therefore doesn't require a primer, and can be shaped, drilled, etc. The downside is that many of the plastics are quite heavy and therefore won't make a good topwater. I have made baits from HDPE which is the stuff that cutting boards are made from and it works fine. Let me know what you find out Woodie, sounds interesting...thanks for posting the info Cliff.

jed v.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It floats. Seems a little less bouyant than mahogany. It's alot tougher than the urethane foam. I made a couple of flat sided cranks out of it with about the same size weight I put in the mahogany ones and they rise just a little slower.Cliff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cliff, Jeb et al.

Coley sent me a sample and I wanted to get more, but didn't need a $200 4x8 sheet, just yet. I had to go searching.

I just got back from Lowes. (HD has it too) In the Moulding Department, they have PVC Trim Moulding. It appears to be the same as the Celtec Board.

A 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 8 Costs about $18 and a 5 1/2 wide is $26. A 2" x 3/16 x 8 ft piece was $5.20. It floats, and a guy showed how strong it bonded with PVC Cement. End To End and it was as though it had never been cut.

It is very easy to cut with a scroll blade.

Waterproof, relatively inexpensive, consistent weighting, Very Strong, needs no sealing, easily obtained and comes in a natural white color.

My work is done! :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can get the PVC board from sign shops also. If you ask, some shops throw away the material from old signs. I have used it for a while. Your hook eyes have to be deeper and glued in place good. If you get too small it will break if you cast it on something hard like a rock. It is very easy to work with. You do need a sealer, sanding against the grain makes pitts, so I seal it for a good finish. I like it, I have just wondered why it has not taken off on these boards. It is a little pricey but if you factor in a 3" lure being cut out of 32 sq ft of material you still have alot of material left. For over 1500 lures at 3".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:-D Well I just had to go out and see this stuff, so I went to Lowes today and picked up the $5, 2" x 3/16 x 8 ft strip that Husky was talking about. Man do I like this stuff. I cut it in half and then layed out my baits to cut after sticking the two pieces together with two sided tape so I could cut out the shapes. It cuts and carves great and seems to hold the hardware with 5min and 30min epoxy. Very nice stuff. Thanks for the tip all.

Camel1918

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
:-D Well I just had to go out and see this stuff' date=' so I went to Lowes today and picked up the $5, 2" x 3/16 x 8 ft strip that Husky was talking about. Man do I like this stuff. I cut it in half and then layed out my baits to cut after sticking the two pieces together with two sided tape so I could cut out the shapes. It cuts and carves great and seems to hold the hardware with 5min and 30min epoxy. Very nice stuff. Thanks for the tip all.

Camel1918[/quote']As

Camel,

Did you glue the 2 pieces together to make a 3/8" bait? The reason I ask is that I test glued 2 pieces and the bond with PVC cement and 5 min epoxy, for that purpose wasn't as good as I'd like. JMO, but I'd prefer to use one piece stock. As I mentioned earlier, the screw eyes that I epoxied in seem to be very well imbedded.

I used a hand coping saw, what type of saw did you use? :?:

With all the sizes available you can cut out pieces to suit your exact dimensions. HD has some 5/4 thickness pieces. Also, HD and Lowes have products from different manufacturers. They may have differrent properties.

Put up some pics when you can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Husky,

Yes, I glued the two pieces together. That is how I make my balsa baits as well. That way if I make a through wire bait it is very easy and even if I drill and epoxy in the twisted wire eyelets I'm sure to get them exactly centered.

I also had some problems with the epoxy holding well :| however I scuffed up the surface and then laid a very thin layer of epoxy on it let it dry and then epoxied the two together. It held fine. :D

I though after that I would have problems with the wire eyelets holding, however they seem to be holding just fine. I really enjoyed working with the stuff.

Putting in a rattle is easy. I just drill a horizontal hole and then counter sink the hole. I then place a circle of hard plastic paper protective sleeve that I've punched out with a paper punch in the counter sink and fill the hole with the light wall patch. Once it is dry I can sand it down and once a thin layer of epoxy is put on I'm ready to paint with a white background already there. Or I can skip the epoxy and just put on my foil tape if I'm going to foil it.

It is better to work with and much more exact that balsa and easier to work with that bass or other woods. Of course there is something about saying you make a balsa or hard wood lure instead of PVC but the consistency of this stuff makes it worth it.

Guess we will see how it holds up. But I'm thinking it will do just fine.

Oh, I do all my cutting on a jig saw and for the larger hard woods a band saw. I also have a sander but use a dremel sander and other attachments tools a lot.

Camel1918

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a pick of the first one I did.

The colors came out a little yellow, I think because of the lighting.

Still have to figure out that out. I need to reread some post about it.

Anyway here it is.

Camel1918

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well' date=' I can't upload the picture. Guess I'm doing something wrong here.

Sorry[/quote']

Open a Photobucket.com acct. It's free. It'll free up some bandwidth from TU and works perfectly. Here's a Photobucket image of me, as a kid.:)

forkinsocket.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Husky,

Great read and thanks for the info on the other forum.

I tried the photobucket site and so I'll try it again.

PVClure.jpg

Camel1918

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Husky' date='

Great read and thanks for the info on the other forum.

I tried the photobucket site and so I'll try it again.

Camel1918[/quote']

Nice job. BTW, I experimented with Plasticoating a test piece which was glued together. It adheres perfectly and I think the thinner helps weld the joint.

They say that using pvc primer and Pvc glue is the prefered method of joining it. Nasty stuff which should be done in a well ventilated area, preferably oouside.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks,

I've found that if I just use a fine sandpaper and make sure I scuff up all of the surface when I epoxy the two sides together that I have no problems. I found that I don't have to put on a thin layer first. It holds just fine. I ran off a batch of ten baits and glued them up just last night.

I want to finish the one in the pic which by the way is not yellow as the picture shows but is a nice white color.

Camel1918

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0