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23 replies to this topic
Posted 03 January 2006 - 02:50 PM
I have made lures form cedar and polywood. What else has been tried. Awhile back there was a post from someone who made lures from foamcore or foamboard. What bizarre materials has everyone tried?
Posted 03 January 2006 - 09:51 PM
I wouldn't call them bizarre, but: basswood, yellow cedar, red cedar, white cedar, birch, maple, port orford cedar. Probably some others that I've tried over the years too.
Posted 03 January 2006 - 10:21 PM
How's this? Made from a disposable razor handle, plastic beak, plastic beads, stainless steel through wire and a lead barrel sinker inside the handle.
Posted 05 January 2006 - 08:05 PM
I recently tried a sample of Celtic Board (3/4" PVC foam Board). Lures ran great and doesn't soak up water. About the weight of mahogany and very hard, but easy to cut,route, and paint. Only downside so far is it's $186.00 for a 4' x 8' sheet (that's the smallest they will sell it). I could get close to 400 lures out of a sheet. Not a bad cost per lure, but haven't been able to put it to the muskie test yet. Cliff
Posted 05 January 2006 - 09:07 PM
...that is what I wanted to hear about. Legit, working lures made from something other than wood. I was hoping to jear from the foamcore guy, see how he attaches things to it, what adhesives he uses.
Posted 05 January 2006 - 09:27 PM
CLIFF the foam board sounds intresting. wheres it available.
Posted 06 January 2006 - 11:02 AM
Hey Woodie. Celtec's web page is www.cpg-vycom.com. I picked up a sample peice from a local plastic supplier here in Columbus, Ohio. I'm sure they probably have a supplier up north. Cliff
Posted 06 January 2006 - 11:55 PM
i sent to ask for a small sample from the canadian rep. i will see where this takes me. will keep you guys posted
Posted 07 January 2006 - 09:32 AM
We have discussed materials such as this several times on the board. I am surprised to be honest that the topic isn't brought up more often. Many of the plastics available to us now are superior in most ways to wood and similar in cost to the more expensive hardwoods. Plastic doesn't shrink or expand, is impervious to water and therefore doesn't require a sealer, generally comes in a variety of colors including white and therefore doesn't require a primer, and can be shaped, drilled, etc. The downside is that many of the plastics are quite heavy and therefore won't make a good topwater. I have made baits from HDPE which is the stuff that cutting boards are made from and it works fine. Let me know what you find out Woodie, sounds interesting...thanks for posting the info Cliff.
Posted 07 January 2006 - 10:43 AM
It floats. Seems a little less bouyant than mahogany. It's alot tougher than the urethane foam. I made a couple of flat sided cranks out of it with about the same size weight I put in the mahogany ones and they rise just a little slower.Cliff
Posted 20 February 2006 - 03:51 PM
Cliff, Jeb et al.
Coley sent me a sample and I wanted to get more, but didn't need a $200 4x8 sheet, just yet. I had to go searching.
I just got back from Lowes. (HD has it too) In the Moulding Department, they have PVC Trim Moulding. It appears to be the same as the Celtec Board.
A 3/4 x 3 1/2 x 8 Costs about $18 and a 5 1/2 wide is $26. A 2" x 3/16 x 8 ft piece was $5.20. It floats, and a guy showed how strong it bonded with PVC Cement. End To End and it was as though it had never been cut.
It is very easy to cut with a scroll blade.
Waterproof, relatively inexpensive, consistent weighting, Very Strong, needs no sealing, easily obtained and comes in a natural white color.
My work is done!
Posted 21 February 2006 - 09:06 AM
You can get the PVC board from sign shops also. If you ask, some shops throw away the material from old signs. I have used it for a while. Your hook eyes have to be deeper and glued in place good. If you get too small it will break if you cast it on something hard like a rock. It is very easy to work with. You do need a sealer, sanding against the grain makes pitts, so I seal it for a good finish. I like it, I have just wondered why it has not taken off on these boards. It is a little pricey but if you factor in a 3" lure being cut out of 32 sq ft of material you still have alot of material left. For over 1500 lures at 3".
Posted 21 February 2006 - 11:08 AM
I've worked with Sign Foam 3 for about a decade now, works well. You can request a free sample here: www.signfoam.com
Posted 26 February 2006 - 01:32 AM
:-D Well I just had to go out and see this stuff, so I went to Lowes today and picked up the $5, 2" x 3/16 x 8 ft strip that Husky was talking about. Man do I like this stuff. I cut it in half and then layed out my baits to cut after sticking the two pieces together with two sided tape so I could cut out the shapes. It cuts and carves great and seems to hold the hardware with 5min and 30min epoxy. Very nice stuff. Thanks for the tip all.
Posted 26 February 2006 - 08:58 AM
Did you glue the 2 pieces together to make a 3/8" bait? The reason I ask is that I test glued 2 pieces and the bond with PVC cement and 5 min epoxy, for that purpose wasn't as good as I'd like. JMO, but I'd prefer to use one piece stock. As I mentioned earlier, the screw eyes that I epoxied in seem to be very well imbedded.
I used a hand coping saw, what type of saw did you use? :
With all the sizes available you can cut out pieces to suit your exact dimensions. HD has some 5/4 thickness pieces. Also, HD and Lowes have products from different manufacturers. They may have differrent properties.
Put up some pics when you can.
Posted 26 February 2006 - 03:23 PM
Yes, I glued the two pieces together. That is how I make my balsa baits as well. That way if I make a through wire bait it is very easy and even if I drill and epoxy in the twisted wire eyelets I'm sure to get them exactly centered.
I also had some problems with the epoxy holding well however I scuffed up the surface and then laid a very thin layer of epoxy on it let it dry and then epoxied the two together. It held fine.
I though after that I would have problems with the wire eyelets holding, however they seem to be holding just fine. I really enjoyed working with the stuff.
Putting in a rattle is easy. I just drill a horizontal hole and then counter sink the hole. I then place a circle of hard plastic paper protective sleeve that I've punched out with a paper punch in the counter sink and fill the hole with the light wall patch. Once it is dry I can sand it down and once a thin layer of epoxy is put on I'm ready to paint with a white background already there. Or I can skip the epoxy and just put on my foil tape if I'm going to foil it.
It is better to work with and much more exact that balsa and easier to work with that bass or other woods. Of course there is something about saying you make a balsa or hard wood lure instead of PVC but the consistency of this stuff makes it worth it.
Guess we will see how it holds up. But I'm thinking it will do just fine.
Oh, I do all my cutting on a jig saw and for the larger hard woods a band saw. I also have a sander but use a dremel sander and other attachments tools a lot.
Posted 26 February 2006 - 08:15 PM
Here is a pick of the first one I did.
The colors came out a little yellow, I think because of the lighting.
Still have to figure out that out. I need to reread some post about it.
Anyway here it is.
Posted 26 February 2006 - 08:22 PM
Well, I can't upload the picture. Guess I'm doing something wrong here.
Posted 27 February 2006 - 07:53 AM
Open a Photobucket.com acct. It's free. It'll free up some bandwidth from TU and works perfectly. Here's a Photobucket image of me, as a kid.