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CountryKat

Rattle idea

11 posts in this topic

I have been racking my brain trying to come up with a rattle system besides the glass or brass rattles that are commercialy available. Let me know what you guys think about this or if it has already been done.

Cut a 1/4" aluminum tube about 3/4" long. Drill a whole into the bait and insert the tube section. Drop in about 5 or 6 BB's. Cut a wood plug and cap the end of the whole. Sand and finish as normal.

If this would work, I think it would be louder and much more cost effective than the other rattles.

Would this work as a weighting system too?

Comments?

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Did you see my glass rattle tutorial about using Christmas light bulbs?

The aluminum tube might work but you would only need 2 or 3 BB's in it. If you put to many in there won't be enough room for them to move around enough.

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I have been using brass tubes for a while and they work great. I remeber someone using .22 cal casings as well. Mounted laterally, they will tick like crazey as the bait swims. I have been closing the ends off with a hard plastic disc epoxied in and the shot bouncing around in the tube and hitting the ends are the loudest I have come up with.

Jerk

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if you put more than 2 or 3 bearings in the tube it deadens the rattle,you'll find any weight gain minimal so you will still need to add balast,also aluminium is soft so i imagine it would deaden the rattle i use 10mm brass tubing with 2 bearings inside sealed with small disc's taped over the ends and epoxy them inside the lures across the body

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i tried something similiar, but inserted the aluminium tube lengthwise along the body of the lure. i used the largest size tube and BBs that i could fit within the body of the lure.

i was trying to get a musky glidebait that would have that little bit of extra glide due to the inertia of the ball bearings. the idea went like this- at the start of the twitch the lure would accelerate and the BBs would run to the rear of the tube, at the stop of the twitch the lure would slow down glide to one side BUT the BBs would continue moving forward and hit the front end of the tube- hopefully pushing the lure a little bit extra in the glide. did it work? the lure glided, but no more than usual.

side effects

1. the lure rattled real loud.

2. the lure casts well and sits tail down after the cast.

3. during retrieve the lure sits nose down on the pause.

if someone gets this idea to work - let me know how please!

regards

Peter

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Hey guys,

I use bic pen tubes that you can pick up 10 pens in a pack for $1.00 at any xmart. I get about 5 rattles per pen.

Cut the pen tube apprx 1/2 inch larger then the finished rattle. Heat the end of the tube untill it softens then smash the end on a hard formica surface. A counter top is fine or a ceramic plate. When you push the pen down to seal the end push straight down and pull it gently in 1 direction. This will help the plastic roll over the opening. Drop a bb in then seal the other end.

The holes might not fully close when you smash the ends. That's ok. Put a piece of cellophane tape over the opening. Install the rattles and smooth it over with wood putty.

If you are planning to use the rattles in foam or featherlite molds seal the opening with hot glue. Using cellophane tape to finish any small openings wont work with the resins and they will find their way into the rattle during expansion.

Kahawai:

Sounds like a counter ballance in the tail would work. The next lure you try it on do everything the same as you did the first lure and just leave room in the tail for a stationary weight. Try using a weight that equals the ammount you are using in bearings.

In theory it should work but not as the extra push you are looking for. It will work for enhanced casting but will actually impede your glide.

For eg: take 2 eggs 1 hardboiled and one raw. With both eggs in the shell spin them on a counter top. The boiled one spins where as the raw eggs will drag and loose momentum immediately. It's gotta be solid to ride the glide.

Tight Lines,

Shawn

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I looked for the brass tubes at the store I was at but did not find them. I have one bait that I just made out of hard Maple. I used 3 bb sized split shot inside the 1/4" hole. I nailed it the first try. The only thing I had to do was remove one of the treble hooks. I thought "peice of cake" The rattle and balance was perfect right from the get go.

Now!!! I started working on the next bait. The test bait was made from pine but I do have a couple backups made from Maple. This bait looks like swiss cheese it has so many holes in it. It is a deep belly shad design. I have had as many as 9 peices of shot in this thing and it still floats on it's side. I gave up on the pine wood. I am going to stick with the maple. For me it just seems easier to work with as far as cutting and sanding. You don't have to worry about taking to much off at one time while sanding (with my new Delta ) I'll tell ya about it in a sec.

Question? When you weight the lure, do you pour hot lead in the hole or simply fill it it with shot?

Now the sander!!! I just got a Delta Model #140 I think, It has a 1" vertical belt 30" and a 5" disc for $53 brand new on sale at Andersons hardware. Lowes has the Delta 1" sander alone for $110. I also got a few extra 1" belts 320 grit and some 5" pads, 80 and 120 grit. It also has dust chutes that I can hook to my dust collector. For me it was the buy of the year.

Anyway, any suggestions on the weighting issues?

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I use a maple board that is drilled with different size and depth holes for a mold and pour up a bunch of slugs for weighting. I dill holes from the bottom of the plug and switch around until I get the right float or sink rate. I then deepen the hole enough to jide the weight and epoxy in. Seal the sole however you like before seal and prime.

Jerk

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nice idea with the pen tubes shawn.

the egg analogy is great- the erratic movement of the unboiled egg is what i'm looking for. i was hoping that as the bearings were moving only in one plane(ie back and forth) that the stop start would give the lure an extra push or life-like lurch.

your foamies look fantastic. are they wired thru? and would you trust screw eyes on foam-it 15?

regards

Peter

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