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finlander

drying wheel system

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I have looked thru all the posts on Homebrew Tools and did not see anything that is infalable for LARGER lures. They need to be rotated nose over arse and they need to be held tightly, springs do not do this. In Musky Hunter Magazine last year, there was an article about Crane baits. Mr. Crane had built a large paddle wheel rack that lookes like it held the lures by the lip. This could be built out of wood, with bolts and wing nuts pinching the lips. My worry is that when the lures go vertical ( lip above) than they might drop out. A gripping material for the plastic lips might suffice. What are your thoughts of this idea? You could space out the lures evenly, depending on the number you need to spin.

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Depending on lip shape it can be used to lock the lure in place. On one of the wood paddles use a dremel to shape out indentation for the lip to sit in. On the top portion make small space for the line tie, if needed. Or use the paddle concept and coat with Plastic dip stuff or pad paddles with rubber bands, portions of silicon pot holder, etc..... I have been looking at using wood cloths pins with a strip of rubber glued on the contact points to hold the lips for my bass cranks.

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More questions arising.. I do not do too many baits at this time...if I had an odd number of lures, how should I space them out? For starters, if I had only two wood 'arms' across between the wood 'discs', would there be a balancing problem for the whole rig? And, what does everyone use on the other end of the assembly, on the disc opposite the rotissiere motor?? Something that will rotate freely.. :?

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I don't find spacing all that import most of the time. I do smaller baits (bass cranks). But if you take into consideration the intended use of rotissere I think it answers the question. How balanced is chicken, roast, etc. when you stab it on. I know I try to get it about equal but am sure more than a few ounce difference. I just went and fastened an 8 inch crescent wrench to an alligator clip and rotated it lengthwise on my wheel, it was ok, but that is an extreme. A good solid base for you wheel would be also a plus. If you are concerned you can always make some counter weight set ups. Just thread some lead sinkers onto wire and clamp on other side.

My rotissiere came with an attachment bracket for the other end. I mounted this onto a 2x4. Could always just drill hole through the 2x4 and pass rod through it and then snug the "chuck" up to the 2x4 to keep the rod from backing out of the motor.

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Another option may be this set up for paint and sealing work I am sure it has it limitations but did just fine for a smaller 1.5 oz bait. I forget the gauge wire it is. It is the vinyl covered stuff. Bend a form slightly shorter than overall lure lenght. Strip the vinyl of the end of wire then feed throught the front line attachement or temporary one and back hook attachment. Can be bent slightly different for various placement. Fits snug and doesn't wobble. Can clamp the wire onto the line and hook attachment eyes if needed. I used for a swim bait last time with no problems.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/holder.jpg

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That rolls them on their sides, right, not head over tail. Ever see any build up anywhere of clearcoat rotating the lures over their sides? Anyone ever change their setup when using a motor with different rpm's than the last one they used? This new one seems abit slower than my first, though I haven't tried them side by side yet.

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That rolls them on their sides, right, not head over tail

What would it matter...either way? The idea is to keep the top coated bait from sagging buy turning it...I turned em by hand for 20 min before I build my drying wheel.

You got baits with a lip on them, then I just clamp em in the alligator clips, have never lost one yet....that would be head over tail....but it really doesn't make any difference...I've made quite a few muskie baits and they come out beautifully...head over tail OR side ways...makes no difference what so ever.

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