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champlainbaits

Clear Coat (for production)

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Hey Folks, I have been following the clear coat issue here for a while now and it always seems to come back to 2 options 1) devcon 2 ton and 2) etex. I think I have those right.

I make crankbaits that sell well, but I pulled them off the market because I find devcon to be problematic. It's a pain to apply, it cracks, chips, etc and in the end I don't think it's worthy of a mass produced bait.

I have limited experience with etex (sp?) and maybe I just need to give that another try but what I'm really looking for is something I can dip or spray so I can include this step in an assembly line. As of now I have a pretty smooth process that comes to a grinding halt at the last step where I need to coat, spin, dry, then drill out the hook holes that got covered in the process.

Sorry to beat this dead horse...but I keep thinking there has to be an easier and better way.

http://www.ladyluckbaits.com

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Devcon will only crack and chip if the bait is not completely coated, it is applied incorrectly, or the bait is just plain abused. It is just that simple. Another clear that you might want to try is Dick Nites clearcoat.

www.dicknite.com

Skeeter

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I would try installing my hook hangers then clear coating around them for a more water tight bait. It sounds like water is getting in the bait. If you are drilling through your clear to install hangers then it is almost certainly getting in at those points.

mossy maker

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I use etex and am happy with it for the most part. I am sure there are better clearcoats out there but I haven't had the time to test them. You might look at EX74 and EX88 (http://www.creative-wholesale.com/EX88%20EX74.html), I have heard good things about both of them. I personally didn't like Devcon all that well either but many on the board are happy with it.

Good luck.

Jed V.

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Hey Guys,

Thanks for the feedback.

Here's how I handle things now...my hook hangers are in the bait and the finish is complete. Then I apply the dev-2 ton and hand rotate it until any inperfections are gone, then I put it on my drying wheel. When it's done I use the point of a razor knife to "drill" out the hook eyelets that got covered in the process (I use a pretty thick layer of dev-2 ton).

When it'a all done the bait is still completely encased in dev-2 ton and looking REALLY good. So they are water tight at that point. Then I take them out...and I fish near bridges (concrete) and rock walls a lot. What I find is that If you cast it up and hit a bridge etc...the butt end will crack. The sides seem pretty tough but that butt end is the weak point.

As long as I don't hit rock or concrete etc. they hold up pretty well.

Then I go to champlain and the pike LOVE them. Big pike really put a hurt on the clear coat also, but I guess that's just the case with any coat.

I'm just looking for the strongest I can get and also have a process that I can live with. Dev-2 ton is just too much effort if I'm going to make 1000's of these things.

Thanks again for your time.

Kevin

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post a picture of the baits that cracked. it will be easier to determine, wood or plastic also.

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Hey Skeeter...I just bought some of the dick night clear coat to try...I really appreciate the info.

Also, I'll see if I can get a picture of the baits cracked...I don't leave them that way long but next one i'll shoot a pict of.

They are plastic...but I may be moving to foam soon to work with my own body design.

Any thoughts on that also greatly appreciated.

Kevin

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Kevin,

To start with.... No clearcoat will hold up to being thrown into concrete. Some clears may take a few more casts than others untill they are breeched, but they will all fail. Also, remember that most clears will crack on sharp edges. If you have sharp edges on a tail or other part of the bait, just touch it with some sandpaper. Lightly will do. Just take the "knife edge" off and dull it. If you have any questions about applying Dick's clearcoat, then send me a PM. Good luck.

Skeeter

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