Wood Crankbait Sealer
16 replies to this topic
Posted 24 February 2006 - 08:25 PM
Just wanted to say that I've been reading here for about a year now and just recently joined. I spend 99% of my free time painting custom colors on store bought cranks. Several friends are really pushing me to start carving. I guess what I really need to know is if I need a sealer of some sort on my sanded body. If balsa or basswood responds like the hardwood I use at work then the first coat will have grain hairs sticking through. If a TRUE sealer is needed, I would appreciate it if someone can lead me in the right direction.
Posted 25 February 2006 - 06:06 PM
i hope some one answers you i have been asking for 6 months and have yet to get a answer kb
Posted 25 February 2006 - 07:51 PM
Sorry to put the "if's" to ya...but...
If you are using balsa I suggest putting a two part epoxy on the blank, then prime, then paint, then two part epoxy.
If you are using basswood I suggest using a type of sealer, then prime, then paint, then two part epoxy.
If you are building lures in your basement or house I suggest using water based paints, primers, sealers, etc to avoid the nasty vapors.
If you have a shed and a ventilation system for the nasty vapors, then go ahead and use the lacquered based paints, etc. etc.
There is a wealth of information on these forums so if you have any other questions the search function can be your best friend...http://www.tackleund...oard/search.php
Hope this helps - Pete
Posted 26 February 2006 - 11:23 AM
I don't work with balsa much but do use a lot of cedar. I just give a couple coats of white Krylon spray can primer. If there is any fuzzing a little light fine grit sanding will take car of it. This has worked well for me. Simple, easy and effective. Hope this helps.
Posted 26 February 2006 - 12:52 PM
See Tallys Tutorial in the Knowledge Base (How To) for plasticoating and the other one on how to seal wood. Botrhn should be very helpful.
Posted 27 February 2006 - 06:03 PM
Thank you for all the help. I'm gonna give multiple base coats a shot first and then go from there. Hope to have something to show everyone soon.
Posted 01 March 2006 - 01:40 AM
I use a simple one Devon 2 ton mixed 50/50 to 60/40 with denatured Alcohol, soaks in and works great ,2 coats totally changes the characteristics of the wood ,took me a long time to get that but thanks to TU boys I cut the learning curve drastically, use what you feel comfortable with.
Posted 02 March 2006 - 09:51 AM
i use same sealer/basecoat as rapala&other luremakers in europe
its basically a plastic you disolve in thinner or acetone
Its easy to use just dip&let dry until you have the coating thickness you want.It cures over a longer period but is paintable after 48 hrs if dried in+20c .Best thing with it is that all leftovers is reuseable just disolve dripoffs over &over&over again.How to do? Read Tallys tutorial on plastic cups .The difference is that plastic cups is made of softer material
If interested see Traders Post
Posted 02 March 2006 - 11:16 AM
There are clear plastic cup and utensils that also work, which are harder than the white cups.
Truth be told, I am not sure hardness is an advantage when it comes to sealing. Some give may be desireable. JMHO.
I used that clear concoction on some test PVC, and 2 thin coats makes the PVC smooth as can be and it will not scratch off, even with a knife.
Posted 02 March 2006 - 09:43 PM
I don't make my own lures but i do modify many lures including Bagleys and Rapala's made from Balsawood and I personally swear by cheap nailpolish that I buy at the dollar store. Works like a charm and leaves a durable thick coating that really lasts much better than the original paint/sealer. It also has deapth, often metalic glitter or mealic sheen as part of it's colour makeup. Snidley
Posted 02 March 2006 - 10:51 PM
I've used the plastic that Swede is talking aboutand highly reccomend it. I've tried cups, clear silverware, packing peanuts, clolred silverware of all of these it works the best.
Posted 03 March 2006 - 04:48 PM
What is the name of that plastic and where can it be got? TIA
Posted 11 March 2006 - 10:34 AM
what is needed to use plastic cups ans silverware to coat cranks?
Posted 11 March 2006 - 11:11 AM
See Tally's Tutorial in the How-To section. It's used only as a sealer as its' base is lacquer thimmer, which will remove any painted finish.
Posted 12 March 2006 - 08:45 AM
I am glad to see the interest in a sealer prior to paint talked about.It has been my experience that there are many ,many killer handmade cranks out there to be had.Of all the ones that I have used my favorites are the ones who not only catch me a lot of fish,but when the abuse is too much and the finish is chipped,busted, tore,etc...etc the exposed wood takes on very little, if any, water.Those can be refinished much easier.All those guys who will pay for handmades expect them to breach on occasion.They love it when they are catching fish and bust one up, but can continue to fish it without ruining that lure.You cannot have those results without effectively waterproofing that wood.
One should use a system that each layer of finish is compatible with the previous.A fine example is a job that I helped a guy do where he used lacquer sanding sealer over the wood under polyurethane,that is a big no,no.You could take a sharp anything and seperate those layers like a zipper.I believe the popular clears here seem to be compatible to water-based paints.I have seen Createx mentioned a lot.there is hours maybe days of material on that subject.
I ,myself, don't mind a liitle paint bein' busted off, as long as the wood remains untouched by water.They catch more fish that way!
Posted 16 March 2006 - 09:38 PM
I have just finished a Crank. I could not find the right sanding sealer for enamel paints. I used clear shellac. I appears to be OK. I read that shellac is compatible with most types of paint and is a good wood sealer. It did not mention Balsa, but I assume it would be the same. I guess time will tell how good the shellac will work. I'll post when I find out the results.