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Counter Weight mold
9 replies to this topic
Posted 25 February 2006 - 04:00 AM
Hey all trying to make a mold for my counter weights, used 2 pieces of wood clamped together then drilled centered holes for the size I wanted.
But the wood burns up too quick, gonna use to pieces of 3/4 inch pieces of aluminum. but cant figure out how to make the slot for the hook hanger wire to fit between the two pieces, without lead getting in the depression made to keep the hanger eye centered in the mold, have to clean the hangers after pouring .. trying to minimize time wasted cleaning these post production. any suggestions?
Posted 25 February 2006 - 12:29 PM
I use 19 ga. stainless wire I get at Ace Hardware. I'd try a drill bit the same size as the loop, only half n half on the depth of it. That's probably going to mean lead inside the loop for you to clean out after pouring...OR ues a tiny nail head the inside diameter of your loop...hole drilled for the shaft of the nail within the loop diameter.
I think it was Blackjack who has a pic in the gallery of his home made weights, which are awesome.
Hope this helps, I just buy Finesse weights from BPS.
Posted 27 February 2006 - 09:08 AM
Durhams Water Putty...may be the better answer...I believe there used to be a tutorial on mold making. Water putty after it is baked..is almost like a piece of marble. nothing like plaster of paris. Very easy to work with.
Posted 27 February 2006 - 09:43 AM
I've had good results with Bondo. It is ready for pouring , almost, immediately after it sets and is innexpensive.
Posted 27 February 2006 - 01:59 PM
If your going to use the two alum pieces. Make your loop and then suspend the wire from nails along the top of the mold. The nails would lay right in the gap produced by the two pieces put together and then you could center the wire in the hole and pour. Try to cover the loop of wire with some kinda tape to keep the lead from getting in there and keep the loop center in the hole and pour away.. If you find a nail thats as big as your loop it should hang there good without moving and with out getting lead in the loop. another words you loop would be on top of the mold instead of the bottom.. Hope thats understandable..
Posted 27 February 2006 - 05:59 PM
About how many pours does the bondo last before there are any problems? I too have started using wood but I am getting annoyed at having to drill new holes after only a few weights.
Posted 27 February 2006 - 07:48 PM
Hundreds. The key is to let it cool when it starts getting hot. If you make 2 or 3 you can rotate the pours and pretty much keep rolling for quite a while.
I have jig molds that I've used for over 2 years. If you mix some Bondo resin into the bondo, it will make the mixture honey like and catch all the fine details. See my tutorial on Bondo Molds in the How To. It works for lead pours as well as for Foam.
Posted 27 February 2006 - 10:20 PM
I think I'll actually pick some up then the next time I have the chance. thanks.
Posted 28 February 2006 - 07:58 PM
I was actually referring to molding my wires in the lead not adding them later, I have successfully done so using wood mold, but I'm moving over to a aluminum mold, I'm going to try the watter putty, and maybe the bondo ideas. But still want to figure out away to do want I want.. I could just make a mold with the loops for hangers outside the mold, but trying to keep them consistently centered. I just thought someone here has done what I'm trying to do .. I guess I'll just buy some extra aluminum pieces , and keep experimenting till I get the way I want . If I perfect it .. maybe I well sell the molds