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muskiemark

Foamies body material

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After seeing how the molds are made and finding all the materials I was wondering what you guys are using to make the bait bodies. I have some two part plastic that I have used in the past from synair but don't know how that will work in the molds. any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I used the 16 Lb Wt foam from http://www.Shopmaninc.com Only buy as much as you'll use in 3 weeks as it deteriorates after opening. You can buy more, in smaller kits, provided you don't open them.

That's just one body material, and probably the cheapest.

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Hey Husky, What problems do you encounter with the foam after the time period. I have been using my 16 pound foam for over a year since I opened it (ok hate to admit that). At first I thought it took a little longer before it began to expand but as soon as they foam warmed, it had been outside in my unheated shop, all seemed normal. I poured these last month and they turned out just fine. The sad part is the cranks are still in the same state.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/flats2.jpg

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Hey Husky' date=' What problems do you encounter with the foam after the time period. I have been using my 16 pound foam for over a year since I opened it (ok hate to admit that). At first I thought it took a little longer before it began to expand but as soon as they foam warmed, it had been outside in my unheated shop, all seemed normal. I poured these last month and they turned out just fine. The sad part is the cranks are still in the same state.

[img']http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/flats2.jpg[/img]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v302/TravisH/flats2.jpg

Travis,

The dark part started to crystalize and the castings came out much less dense and lacked the hardness they had, previously. It was as if the 16 lb turned to 4 lb weight. It was much lighter in color, too. The foam expanded much more and faster.

Which brand did you use? I used US Composites. The stuff worked fine up to about 3 weeks.

BTW, I touched up your pics. It deserved to be seen. Nice job:wink:

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Hi muskiemark,I use the smooth-on foam-it 15,It works nice but the room tem is very important!!!You can see how to make a very good mold in the tutorial from artbrush!!I used is advice and my first mold is perfict!! :D when i buy a kit I make all the lures in the same day!!like that i'm sure that the stuff is fresh and efficient :wink: I make some 10 inches musky lures so I can make about 8 whit a small foam-it 15 kit.

Hope that will help you out!If you whant to know where to buy the stuff go see on the website smooth-on.com for the dealer near you!

Cheers,muskydan666

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I am using the US Composites stuff also. I didn't notice any crystallization in my product, but I didn't look very closely. I do know that around the cap it had defineltly crystallized, I thought I was going to have to cut the top off but that was material left around the cap. Do you use both caps once you opened it. I always pushed the metal plug back into the opening and then the final cap. I think I will just use it all up as soon as possible and buy some fresh stuff. I like the concept of using it all up in three weeks, now I just will have to sell my wife on the concept. :wink:

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question guys. whats the best primer for your foamies. anybody use a lacquer base. im considering of getting an aluminum mold built for bodies.. i plan on 16lb

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question guys. whats the best primer for your foamies. anybody use a lacquer base. im considering of getting an aluminum mold built for bodies.. i plan on 16lb

After they're thoroughly washed, Tally's Platicoat is the Bomb.

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You should try the prop plastic that Swede has. it's the same stuff that a major lure manufacturer uses and is much tougher than the plastic cups.

Swede has a link in the swap forum for some of his plastic if your interested in trying it.

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i am curious. i never knew the foam had to be re-coated before paint. the luhr jenxen fingerlings are not done that way i think. i could be wrong as this will be a new adventure, i hope

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i am curious. i never knew the foam had to be re-coated before paint. the luhr jenxen fingerlings are not done that way i think. i could be wrong as this will be a new adventure, i hope

I do it to get a super Smooth surface to Finish on. Foam can be finished w/o recoating if all the release agents and other materials are removed.

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