Jump to content
wantsome

Clear coat questions

Recommended Posts

I have a bunch of bomber long a's painted up and I'm unsure of what clear coat to use. Thier painted with Createx so I need something compatable. Right now I'm leaning twards Flex Coat because its goes on thinner then Devcon. I want a clear coat that can handle some abuse but not affect the action of the bait.

I'm exploring all my options as of now. In a prevoius thread someone had mentioned a rattle can clearer or even acrylic. Can someone elaborate on these two as for the pros and cons? Whats the best way to go?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wantsome,

Here is my secret. If you want a hard clearcoat that will stand up to the abuse without the added weight or aggravation of all theses epoxies everyone here swears buy: Polyurethane is the answer. Go to the hardware store or Wally World and buy high gloss polyurethane clearcoat. Do not buy the quick dry. Make sure your lip is still completely covered and grasp the front of the lip with a clothespin. Dip your lure and hang by the lip to dry for 24 hours. Redip the lure and hang for another 24. I have had no problems losing my clearcoat or any paint damage. This is a less time consuming and more even finish then you will get with the epoxies and drying wheels. If you question the strength of the finish, call a local marine and ask what bass boats are finished with. Sorry that this post may ruffle a few feathers, but not everyone likes to jump in the same boat and share one paddle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Blackjack is right. Bass boats are finished with an epoxy gel coat. It is more similar to Devcon (epoxy) or Envirotex (reactive polymer) than the polyurethane stuff you buy at Wallyworld.

I have experimented with many different paints and clear coats. Polyurethane could be an ok finish as long as the lure doesn?t see any severe use such as rocks or musky teeth. There are two-part urethane finishes also (Imron); but even they don?t compare in hardness or abrasion resistance to a catalyzed epoxy finish.

The only baked on polyurethane I?ve ever heard of is a powder coat finish.

If the poly works for you, that?s great! I?ve even used it myself as a barrier coat between the color coat and the epoxy topcoat. But for sheer toughness it?s not at all comparible to epoxy.

Wantsome, Flexcoat is a good topcoat, or if you are interested in a dippable finish, PM Swede here on TU and talk to him about the propianate finish he uses. (it?s like the finish Rapala uses on their lures)

Da Count

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thx for the responses people. I've been doing alot of searches and reading up on clear coats.

I'm kinda leary about polyurethane. Mostly because not many people seem to indorse it. Although I may try it in the future. I'm kinda strapped for cash because I'm out of work. So I dont have much money to experament with.

I think I'm gonna try Flex Coat first since I read it was lighter then Devcon. I'll try Devcon if it dont work out. I'm hopeing one of them work and dont affect the action of the lure.

Bomber long A's are pretty boyant so I'm thinking a little added weight shouldnt hurt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a real newby here, but for what it's worth, have you ever tried Future Acrylic Floor Finish? I don't know how it might work in a commercial setting, but I've messed around with it with some good results. Again, if I'm off base please don't humiliate me too badly. JB

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thx for the advise dtrs, I've learned so much over the past couple of months just from doing searchs and I've only scratched the surface. There is alot of info on clear coats and it seems like everyone has an opinion. From what I read all clear coats have thier advantages and disadvantages. Devcon Etex and Fc seem to be the most popular on the site. I'm gonna start with one and if I dont like it try another.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Michael

Just so you know: Minwax Clear Gloss Polyurethane has no such note on the container. I guess if you were to worry about continuous submertion I would suggest not storing your tackel box in the lake! I have lures almost two years old now that I fish religiously that look like I just finished them. It bothers me that no one on this site actually thinks that someone else might have their own ideas that could be useful to others. If there weren't many different ways to meet the same end, we wouldn't enjoy the plethora of lure manufacturers we have today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It bothers me that no one on this site actually thinks that someone else might have their own ideas that could be useful to others.

That is not the deal here. We welcome all thoughts and ideas. But, you can also expect someone to either expand on or challenge your ideas and experiences. It is all part of the forum. Especially if you are going to discuss clearcoats. Personally, I have found quite a few of the forum participants to be rather abusive and violent toward clearcoat discussions. That is why I never voice my opinion on the subject.

Skeeter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, Skeeter was the recipient of some pretty ugly and definitely unnecessary follow-ups in those previous clearcoat threads. sad to think you can't exchange ideas and info without getting piled on. I have stated before that he is THE man on devcon. If I could get his results with devcon I would never use flexcoat except on rods. Sadly, I have had bad luck with the glue, so FC it is for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Skeeter....I knew there was something about you I liked! :grin:

Cranky,

This forum has different opinions all around.I have apologized to a few whom I have accidentally offended with careless statements and will continue to take such measures, but you are wrong.PERIOD. Here's the deal... if you leave a soda can full of product on a table finished with only polyurethane,that can WILL leave a discolored ring in that place.Under the exact same circumstances, Devcon or the clearcoat that I use WILL NOT be affected the same.

I am a professional woodworker ,and it just so happens that I have in my possession one Minwax polyurethane can AND I QUOTE "BLAH...BLAH...BLAH...Interior use only".I assumed that one can extrapolate the notion a little further and understand that means inside the home.I guess if yer fishin' on the 'ol Playstation you'd be covered! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Michael

Figured you couldn't resist chiming in again. As for the soda can, generally I let my lures dry and cure before I fish them. As for the ring, I generally fish with my lures in the water and not on the counter. I've been a custom cabinet builder since I was 15. Before you get smart, I worked after school and all weekend. Oh by the way, I'd take you on the Playstation and I will put my lures up against yours any time! Like Skeeter said, this is a heated topic and it's probably best if we let it go. I'm sure that you're happy with your clearcoat and I will stand behind mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i personally don't like etex because my lure turner spins to slow etex puddles on the bait for me i like devcon and use it exclusively and as far as which is best who knows and who cares if you like what your using stick with it cause everybody has a opinion about what best and we all know the old saying about opinions

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cranky,

I made a poor approach in a previous thread a few months back,one which your original entry here resembled very closely, by dismissing the knowledge base here.I was simply wanting to know why anyone would use protection that was not meant for outdoor furniture, let alone fishing lures.On a whole,this forum has some very experienced fellas.They will share plenty of helpful information if you let them.We all make mistakes from time to time,myself included.

I, also speak from experience, having tried poly in the past.My point was to show how water affects polyurethane.The integrity was also compromised severely once the clear was abused by rocks,laydowns,etc.Poly also has the tendency to tear off in large chunks(foil-sided esp.) as opposed to smaller chips,which I prefer.If you attack me,expect a counterattack.I don't prefer that road though.If you are happy, then all is well, I was simply attempting to stop another from repeating what I felt was an earlier mistake of my own.Peace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To be honest with you Cranky, I have been swinging a big bat every time that clearcoats are discussed in this forum. I have been swinging that bat for about 3 or 4 yrs. now. :D I truely enjoy the lively discussions that we have here on the subject. Like Dave said, the "Dark Side" has been after me for a long time. But...... they have never caught me. :wink: If you believe in what you are using then stick to it. I have tried other things for clearcoats. I am not completely closed minded. :wink: But I am still using the same clearcoat that I started with 5 yrs. ago. Nothing has beat it yet.

Skeeter B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All is well!

Just wanted everyone that has been part of this discussion to understand that I honestly wouldn't try to lead anyone in the wrong direction. Wantsome that posted the original question actually wanted to know about toothy critters. I told him I had no idea how they would hold up as I am strictly a bass fisherman. I thought that the discussion was over after the second post from wantsome. Then the bottom fell out. I respect everyone's opinion here and I only post from my own experiences. I don't have any problems with my finish even after 2 years of abuse. Just trying to help, same as the rest. Let's all just turn our back on this one.

Peace B)

Cranky

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The dark side...I like it. Skeet must have seen me wearing my hand pouring respirator!

Ok, from the dark side then, in order of ease of use:

1) Devcon

2) FC

3) Etex

I put Etex below FC only because it seems to be the one product that continually comes up as requiring modification, thinning, adjustment, etc. Devocn and FC are basically both apply and wait for cure, just different time frame and thickness. Devcon is no doubt the easiest place to start, and importantly, it is usually readily accessible in most areas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...
Top