dampeoples

CSI Seal-Coat, Dick Nite and Devcon

21 posts in this topic

I've been trying out different clears, and wanted to share my experience with this stuff, I painted a handfull of baits, using a Createx white base, and Polytranspar colors, and I can't remember if I used Polytranspar black or Wildlife Colors black for the back, the red on the popper mouth is Createx.

I did a two in Devcon, which clouded up, I can't seem to recall, but i think everything out of this particular tube has been bad, I've tossed it, and have had good results with this stuff in the past.

I did one in Dick Nite, using the Polytranspar clear Gloss that I got in a kit first, to protect the Sharpie from the Dick Nite, this is nice and shiny, but there are some spots in it, I think they might actually be dirt, as I had to turn them outside, because that stuff stinks!

I got a bottle of this new Seal Coat, it's water based, so I assumed it would work over water based paint, so I did two baits in this, brushed it on with a cheap brush, which lifted the Createx, and didn't seem to do so well with the Polytranspar. I put them on the wheel, and got this after about 15 minutes. I've contacted CSI, and they have requested to see these baits, so I sent them off earlier this week, I hope he can figure out what's wrong, as their guy stated that my assumption was correct, that water based paint shouldn't interact with Seal-Coat.

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Even if you are only doing testing, it has got to leave a bad feeling in your gut to see all the time spent on a lure, turn into the cracked mess on the the last two lures.

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I just finished two lures with my 6 year old daughter using acrylic and plan on dipping them in Dick Nite for the clear coat - will I have trouble ?

What should I use for color with Dick Nite?

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I dip my lead baits in Dick Nite with no problems whatsoever, these are powder painted, and airbrushed finished, using Createx, Polytranspar and Wildlife Colors paints. I just dip, hang, wipe the drip, hand them the other way, and come back later, no problems.

That's why it really bugs me that I can get good results from the DN with lead, but not plastic bodies!

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Whoa! Bummer on the Seal Coat. I must believe it has solvent in there to do that to acrylic paint!

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I just finished two lures with my 6 year old daughter using acrylic and plan on dipping them in Dick Nite for the clear coat - will I have trouble ?

What should I use for color with Dick Nite?

I use Createx's basic water-base airbrush paint. I've done many lures with this combo. You must heat-set your Createx; I use a hair-dryer, for this and am very thorough. After the bait cools, I apply Dicknite's Lurecoat with a brush at room temperature, and turn it on my dryer for a few minutes. The solvent part of the cure happens very quickly. I then put the lure at room temp in the most humid room in my house and let it cure for 24 hours, out of direct furnace blow, after which you'll notice that the post solvent-flash sweet odor is mostly or all gone. After a couple of days this stuff is as clured as you are likely to ever notice. It actually continues to toughen for about 30 days, at which point it is what I'd consider bulletproof.

Happy coating!

Dean

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Bob/Dean!

The trap that I dipped in the DN and had a few markings, well, I dipped it again today, and those are gone! Maybe I just need two or more coats :)

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Are you having to heat the paint because your brushing them.....I use water based also but I'm a dipper...with no problems even with c-tex...with all that water....lol. I got to thinking I have water at home, so I buy some of the other paint for 3rd of the cost and add my own water.

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Same problem with the seal coat. Just finished a display lure for a friend and decided to use my seal coat (just not tough enough for my fishable lures IMHO)and it completely ruined the lure. Yes, it is painful to see all your hard work ruined by the final step.

Creekmonster

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Are you having to heat the paint because your brushing them.....I use water based also but I'm a dipper...with no problems even with c-tex...with all that water....lol. I got to thinking I have water at home, so I buy some of the other paint for 3rd of the cost and add my own water.

You mean I could have been using my own water all this time instead of paying Createx for it? Boy, do I feel stupid. In fact, wait until the entire latex paint industry finds out about this: I'm glad I don't own any paint stocks right now because that industry is obviously a sucker's bet...

Okay, I feel better. Createx is more than just pigment and water, which is why it can be successfully used on a variety of surfaces. You can use it on plastics such as lexan, without it flaking off and turning to dust, for example. You can heat set it in the clothes dryer for permanence on fabrics, or heat-set it on fishing lures with a hair-dryer and it will a top coat such as Dicknite's and it will withstand the initial solvent catalyzation in the curing process. Createx uses quality pigments, special binders, and flow enhancers in a base developed specifically to enhance high perfomance airbrush painting, where a little bit of it goes a long way. I have a bottle of unpigmented base; trust me you don't want to drink it.

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Seal Coat turns waterbased paint into melted wax, you can watch it run. Sterling, I wish you would have told me you were going to try it, I would have steered you clear of that mess.

I'm feeling like a lonely solider, I still devcon 2T. Maybe one day I'll clean my shop and then I can try D Nite's clear.

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Benton B,

I still use Devcon 2T exclusively also. I have tried every imaginable top coat out there and nothing seems to hold up to big fish and teeth like Devcon including Dick Nite's. Dick Nite's is thin and looks good and would be great for bass or similar type fish, but when it comes to teeth it will not hold up, even with several coats. Trust me I have tried it first hand with Musky and Pike and they bite right through it.

Rod

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I would give Devcon the edge over DN's for resistance to puncture by a sharp tooth. But Devcon is going sometimes be punctured also, and is especially vulnerable in places where it cures thinner, and once the coating has been voided, I'd much rather have Dicknite's, because it won't delaminate like epoxies do. Dicknite's is also more abrasion and scuff resistant than Devcon. For toothy critter lures,fresh and salty, I sandwich Devcon between Dicknite's topcoat (scuffing and wiping with alcohol between coats) to achieve the toughest topcoat; I've also done this with E-tex Lite, when I want a thicker coating over foils, which also works well. For maximum toughness from Dicknite's alone, I prefer to let it cure for 3 weeks in an environment with some humidity, as it is a moisture-cure urethane.

Dean

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rjbass, I just hate the idea of learning all the little tricks to make a new top coat look right. I very rarley run into a problem with devcon any more.

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I have some of the sealcoat sealer that I have used on 4 or 5 lures without any problems. I take and use a hair dryer on the paint between coats and then wait a day or 2 before dipping in the sealer. I tried putting on with a brush the first time, No Good.

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I have some of the sealcoat sealer that I have used on 4 or 5 lures without any problems. I take and use a hair dryer on the paint between coats and then wait a day or 2 before dipping in the sealer. I tried putting on with a brush the first time, No Good.

That's nice, but we need more info :) What paint, brush, airbrush, what sort of material, etc!

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I just started messing around with this so I still use the cheap apple barrel paint. I've just been painting some musky baits that I already had. Some have been wood, but most are plastic. Have used the d2t, but I started messing with some plastic walleye cranks, and I think the d2t might affect the action.

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So what is the real story? If you heat set the createx does the Seal Coat not eat it up??

I already ordered a pint yesterday - and some of CSI's epoxy.

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As I was corrected a few weeks ago I now beleive it is best to use a water based clear over Createx before applying D/N's. It protects paint and signatures with Sharpies and other inks from running after applying D/N's and it just makes sense "water based paint/ water based clear"....no sense complicating things.. JMHO

"MAKE SURE YOU HEAT SET" In my adventures this one little step can save a lot of regrets. I'm full of opinions this morning. :whistle: Well full of something anyway:lolhuh:.

Dean stated that with Createx on T-shirts you heat set the paint in a dryer........dont do this with your baits.....IT DONT WORK :cry::lolhuh:

Sorry this did'nt answer your ??? about Seal coat but just my lousy 2 cents.

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I have had some problems of my own whith the seal coat. I first used if over rattle can paint and was not happy with the results. It seemed to wrinkle or seperate after on the wheel. When I tried to put a sticker on the bait the stuff crackled like an old timer bait. I just quit using it as a top coat and now use it as a sealer on my bare wood blanks. I have used it on numerous baits and have not had any problems as a wood sealer. Any ideas or future problems anyone may forsee using it in this way:huh:. At lest it is better than pitching the whole pint. I use Devcon and have had no major problems other than my own lack of patients.

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