ernel

Devcon & water based paint

8 posts in this topic

From a reply that Skeeter made 19 Dec 03

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1312&highlight=Devcon

To make a balsa plug bullet proof, cleacoat the lure with long drying Devcon before you paint it. Then shoot your paint. This will not work with water based paints, only lacquer. Then clearcoat with Devcon for the final clearcoat.

How can someone go about using C-tex paints if you are wanting to use the Devcon as a sealer for balsa? Can I, or should I use a white laquer for the base coat then spray the waterbased C-tex over the laquer for the final color scheme.

Thanks,

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have painted Createx over Devcon and E-tex many many times without a problem. Lightly scuff your epoxy coat of choice, remove any dust, give the lure a light alcohol wipe, and let dry. From this point, avoid touching the lure with bare hands. Paint away with Createx, heat setting afterwards, then clear-coat wth your coating of choice. This happens with every balsa lure I make, such as the one in my avatar.

Dean

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I waterproof with epoxy, dull it with a light sanding and then shoot the acrylics. I use white acrylic as the color basecoat. No sense in getting too complicated, besides the more different coating types you apply to a bait, the better the chance that two of them won't behave.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What grit sand paper are you guys using to knock the shine off the finish with? I am thinking between 200 & 400 grit should work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It depends a little on the type of paper or pad. I sometimes use the thin foam sanding pads that are called fine or 275. For paper I usually use 400 to 800. Some guys also like 3-M type pads for knocking off the shine.

Dean

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dean,

I have some of the 400 paper that is used for wet dry sanding it should work fine. I will let you know how it turns out after I get my water trap for my compressor tommorrow.

Thanks,

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

400 is great; if you go too rough, even with a light touch, you'll end up with scratches that will show all the way through to the clearcoat, which is usually when you'll first realize it. I mentioned the thin foam pads earlier; the gray ones from Wal-Mart are are marked Fine- 150, on the back, which makes no sense to me as they are nothing like a 150 grit paper. They behave much more like a 400 grit. I never use them for wood but they work well as a scuff pad.

Dean

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now