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finding the right saw
26 replies to this topic
Posted 13 April 2008 - 06:40 PM
Bandsaw first then osc. drum sander. I own 3 diff. saws, & the bandsaw does the majority of the work for me
Posted 16 April 2008 - 10:11 PM
Thanks plenty folks..........I hit the Home Depot and came home with a 9" Ryobi band saw. I have already cut out a bunch of blanks to play with. I have a few slats of oak from a pallet. I also have a couple of the large cross peices that I was trying to figure out how to cut planks from easily. From what Coley posted....I guess I was thinking about it all wrong.......Thats definitely thinking out of the box..........A freind gave me a Hickory plank today and I have already made some dust with it. That stuff is rediculously hard. It cuts nice, but it is really hard to sand down finished. I like how tough it is....but it makes oak feel like pine in contrast...LOL
Posted 17 April 2008 - 01:12 AM
I have a question about bandsaws.
Can a small bansaw cut straight pieces of wood?
Say, I have a piece of wood, 2 inch thick, and I want to cut out straight stripes of wood, which will have the thickness I need for the crankbaits? The hardest wood I will use will be basswood.
I know that a table saw would be better to this end, but I cannot have both, so I have to choose one.
For the moment, the only type of bandsaw I can find in my town is an Einhell brand, (and it costs about $165) so I may try to buy a bandsaw in another country.
I have a scroll saw, but I have never worked with a bandsaw. I think every small bandsaw comes with a fence, so it should cut straight. But I don't know if you could cut straight into a 2 inch piece of wood. Does the blade oscillate? Can the machine be adjusted for this job?
Posted 17 April 2008 - 01:25 AM
Ok, not sure as to how to send out all these message, but here goes,
I was into Fret Work hard and heavy, I've got a Hawk G4, it uses a 5" plain end blade
The saw blades that I pisked up in stores and that came with the saw were junk.
You can find a place called CherryTree on the internet. Look for the 5" OLSON
PRECISION GROUND REVERSE BLADES. 552GT, 553GT and the 554GT,
these blades last and last, I've cut red oak 2 to 3 hours straight with same blade.
Sorry for butting in
Posted 17 April 2008 - 06:41 AM
A bandsaw's ability to cut straight pieces is dependent on three main things.
First, can the upper guide be raised high enough to accept the stock.
Second, is the blade sharp, and the right tooth configuration and width.
Third, can the blade be tensioned enough to keep the blade from deforming and wandering during the cut.
Assuming you can fit the stock you want to cut under the upper guide,
the blade and blade tension are really the most critical components.
I have a 16" Grizzley (Chinese) bandsaw that I bought for work twenty years ago.
If I want to cut taller stock with a straight cut, I put a 5/8" or 3/4" wide, skip tooth blade on, and crank the tension up until the blade really twangs when I thump it with my fingers. And I make sure the blade is sharp, and that I feed the stock slow and steady.
Nothing makes a blade wander faster than feeding stock too fast. That will make even a brand new, sharp blade drift.
Also, bandsaw blades are rarely perfectly parallel to the fence when they actually cut. Each blade has it's own "personality", at least on homeowner saws, and I always do a small test cut, to see which was the blade wants to drift, and set the fence parallel to the cut, instead of trying to force the cut to be parallel to the fence.
Small table top bandsaws may have improved over the years, so I don't want to say they can't do the job.
But smaller saws have smaller wheels, and shorter blades, and get dull faster. And they generally don't have frames that are rigid enough to really tension a wide blade. So you need to be sure you use really sharp blades, and go slow, letting the resistance you feel during the cut tell you how fast.
I hope this helps.
Posted 17 April 2008 - 07:49 AM
Mark, your answer helped me alot.
The stock I intend to cut is 2 inch thick, and I think even the smallest bandsaw can fit such thickness of wood under the upper guide.
As I have a scroll saw, I know that in order to make the blade cut on a desired line, you do not have to push hard the wood into the blade, but just let the blade work as it "likes" to work.
So a wider blade is better for the job of cutting straight. That was my guess, but now I have the confirmation.
I want to buy a small bandsaw, because I intend to use it to cut out lures, as my scroll saw is very lazy. And I also want such a small bandsaw to cut through 2 inch stock, in a straight line.
Posted 17 April 2008 - 11:11 PM
Before you buy, see if there is a nuber you can call for the manufacturer's technical person, and ask him/her about cutting the stock you have in mind.
If they don't have a tech. in-house you can talk to, check the internet for the model saw you're looking at, and see if there is anyone who has one you can talk to.
Before I bought my bandsaw, I checked with Grizzley, and found a guy who live one mile from me who had one. I called him and went by to check out his saw, and ask him all the questions I had regarding the saw.
Or you can post the question, "Who uses a table top bandsaw, and how does it perform?".