Mags

Ebay Clear Coat

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Anyone ever try this http://cgi.ebay.com/Fishing-Lure-Coating-None-Yellowing-Clear-Gloss-Quart_W0QQitemZ270074941847QQihZ017QQcategoryZ794QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I have been using Devcon and I recently did some foiled 3/4 ounce Luhr Jensen Hotlips Express for a friend. Clear coated them with a one coat de-natured alcohol Devcon. He fished them hard and after one weekend he returned one bait with a destroyed finish clesar coat and foil gone on the bottom). He caught a bunch of good fish on it and used some wide gap Gamagatsu trebles, which he thinks dug into the bait. I just re-did it for him and this time used un-thinned Devcon and gobbed it on (no worry about getting a sinker with these baits). It's a little cool here (low 60's today for a high) in Central Texas and the Devcon was a major pain to put on unthinned even after warming it with a hair drier. I've almost always thinned it and returned to that method with some other baits I now have on the drying wheel. I'm wondering about an alternative to Devcon, since I've had other troubles with it (e.g. some areas not covering). Using Devcon with even just a few baits is a real pain and putting on thick coats for me has killed the action of the bait, or created a sinker (e.g Norman Deep Little-N's, Poes 400's). Most of the manufacturuers surely don't use Devcon and they certanly can't brush on multiple coats. Their finishes hold up pretty well and they're thin. I don't know what Tim Hughes or Brian Huskins uses, but it doesn't appear to be Devcon or Lite (?). Thin, but tough is what I need. Any thoughts on an easier, less time consuming alternative? A dip instead of brush sure would be nice.

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that stuff sounds great.i havent had expierience but it looks easy and just as good as devcon.if theres no objections from other people i might try some out.

-bamabass

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I just orderd some..I'll let you know how it goes when it arrives..Nathan

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I just did some more baits for him and used warmed full strength Devcon for a first coat and a thinned de-natured alcohol coat for the second. He's off to Amistad with them this weekend. We'll see how they hold up. If they don't hold up I'll post a picture of the damaged goods.

On another note I did three Norman Deep Little N's for him and two ended up sinkers in 60 degree water. This was with one coat of Devcon and after I went with lighter split rings and changed the hooks to number 6's from the stock number 4's. These were older baits and when we compared them to some other DLN's they were slimmer. They also had no rattle. These must have been bad right out of the box.

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Yes that is what he means.....

For Mags.... what I want to know is why did you feel the need to put on two coats of Devcon? Thinned or not. There is absolutely no reason to use two coats. There is also no reason to thin Devcon. You were thinking right when you changed out the split ring and the hooks. Good work. But the reason the Devcon is not working for you is because you are just spreading it on until the lure is covered and then putting it on the wheel. You can apply a thin coat of Devcon by coating the lure and then brushing the Devcon from the head to the tail of the lure repeatedly and pulling the excess Devcon off at the tail of the lure with the brush. Wipe the excess of of the brush and repeat until you have a thin even coat. Get any excess Devcon out of the hook hangers with a tooth pick. There is no clearcoat that will hold up forever. That is the holy grail on this site. If your buddy caught that many fish off of the lure, then he got his monies worth. I have baby n's with rattles that I have clearcoated with Devcon and they float like a duck in 50 deg. water. Poes has used so many different clearcoats on their baits to the point where it is rediculous. Since the company was sold the first time, their baits have not measured up. They aren't even made the same way or have the same dimensions as the originals from the 80's and early 90's. Those thin coatings that you mentioned use to be a clear that is now banned by the EPA. That is another reason why those baits are made outside of the U.S. today. They can still get the stuff overseas. But even that is not that tough. Cast any of those baits into a rock or a dock and watch them crack. The last Poes 400 that I bought had urethane clearcoat with a flex agent in it. The stuff was on that bait more than twice the thickness of a single coat of Devcon. The bait felt like it was encased in rubber. If you look at the old original Norman crankbaits, they were never clearcoated anyway. Everyone thinks that baits from big companies are consistant. Bull..... Bagley has been sold so many times that they changed from one year to the next. The big kicker was when they started making them in the Dominican Rupublic. They were a real joke then. Poes bodies have been inconsistant since the early 90's. If you find a Poes or Bagleys with a properly installed lip and everything lined up then you have found one of those 1 in 100 baits that Fritts talked about. Molds wear out and have to be replaced. They are not always made again by the same company and then that style of crankbait that you bought last year is not the same as the one you buy this year. I have seen plastic injected bodies that aren't straight either. Why, because the mold wasn't straight. Rarely, does anyone closely check out a plastic bait. They always assume that they are perfect. Not so. Try spreading the Devcon like I suggested. Oh yeah, by the way, the perfect temp for applying Devcon is 75 deg.

Skeeter

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:worship::worship::worship:

Wise words from the master. Thank you Skeeter...

And thank you for saying what I was thinking and for reaffirming how I apply Devcon.

Mags, I live 45 miles north of you and my lab is is in a building out back. I just have a small walmart heater... I have never had a problem with one coat of Devcon applied in the Skeeter method... I have done numerous DLNs for folks and modified a few dozen Poes 400's ala the Fritz method of drilling and adding lead...and even with adding lead and then Devcon, they will rise slowly with stock hooks and rings.... (most of these Poes were purchased in the 80's and early 90's)

I hope your friend knock em dead on Amistad! :yeah::):):)

BJ

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Of the four DLN's one was a floater with two number 4's, one suspended with two number 4, and two were sinkers with two numbers sixes and light split rings. These were all Jap hooks. Of the Poes I painted and coated all floated like corks except for one which was a suspender with two number two gamagatsu's. All the Poes were labeled as suspenders. This was in 60 degree water. I painted and coated some DLN's earlier this year and they were suspenders in 70 degree water. This is with number fours and the stock split rings.

I already use the Skeeter method for Devcon, except I have thinned it some with denatured alcohol. My work shop isn't heated or cooled, and has no insulation. My shop is actually designed for holding my boat.

While I have used Devcon in the past this is my first failure. When I have received baits from Hughes and Brian they aren't clear coated with Devcon. The 3/4 ounce HotLips Express has an almost flat belly about 1 inch across. It is set up for hook wear. I'll see what happens this weekend and post the results.

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I tested the stuff extensively. It doesn't work for sealing like he advertises it for. And after seeing that he's still advertising it and selling it for lures he's about to get his first negative feedback from me too.

I got a refund but only after I hounded him for it. Not only did the stuff alligator on multiple coats, it doesn't harden like he says and it definitely doesn't seal any kind of wood I tried it on. I did some pretty scientific tests with it on 5 lures and it was a total waste of time, single and multiple dips, every one sucked in water and gained weight. Two coats on a painted lure and the stuff looked like crap.

snake oil for sure. They can't even spell polyurethane on the darn label right.

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Thanks for the info on your experience with this product. Sounds like it shouldn't be used for this application.

My buddy fished Amistad with the new baits I did for him and no failures this time. Of course he didn't catch nearly the fish. It was a rough weekend because of the wind.

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I recieved my bottle of Max Clear on Thursday of this week (Jan.18), and brushed 5 finished lures on Friday. I followed the instructions and cleared the baits with 3 coats. Put them on my drying rack and gave them ample time to set up. Every coat is deeper and glossier than the one under it. Very easy to work with right out of the jug. No orange peel or alligatoring. I use my own concoction of Etex to seal the wood before painting and am very satisfied with it, so I will not use Max Clear for that. As a top coat clearcoat, I'm tellin' you guys, this stuff is the schizzle. No more 2 part epoxies for me......:yeah:

Oldthunder

www.eaglelures.com

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For what its worth.....I tried the stuff and it looks good going on, but it does not hold up. Actually, I have tried every type of clear coat known to man to try and find the ultimate, easiest way to clear coat a bait, but I have found none better than Devcon. It cures harder and glossier and does not let the water in. End of story.

Rod

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Sealers vs topcoating. I use propionate pellets (tks Swede!) and it works great as a wood waterproofer when disolved in acetone. Dip it, hang it and it dries in 10 mins. But I personally think it's too soft to use as a topcoat and it usually has a milky sheen. If you want tough, I think the 2 current best choices are either epoxy or water cured polyurethane. Epoxy has more consistent results (no bubbles, great leveling, durable, etc) while the poly is harder, slicker, thinner, and glossier (but levels poorly and is prone to bubbles). I have several repainted DLN's in my tackle box - none sink. I know Norman used to sell Suspending DLN's. Maybe a couple of those are in your batch? If so, you have to remove the old finish completely and use thin clearcoat.

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I received my bottle of this stuff a couple weeks ago..and have played around with it a bit.I used it for dipping.3 dips spaced about 15 min. apart will give you the same thickness as one coat Devcon.The coat it EXTREMELY clear when dry.(besure too use a wheel while drying)I had no problems with the finish.I took 1 of the lures after about 36 hrs and places in a bowl of water.after approx. 8 hrs,I noticed some of the top coat leaching in too the water.I gave the Company a call,and he said the top coat hadn't cured all the way.He said too place the baits in the oven for 30 min. at 110 degrees too speed up the process..It works great.

I REALLY think this stuff shows promise..Nathan

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Sealers vs topcoating. If you want tough, I think the 2 current best choices are either epoxy or water cured polyurethane. Epoxy has more consistent results (no bubbles, great leveling, durable, etc) while the poly is harder, slicker, thinner, and glossier (but levels poorly and is prone to bubbles).

Since I first began using moisture-cure urethane (dicknite's Fishermun's Lurecoat) last year, I've been impressed with how easy it is to to get a smooth bubble-free coating, but it does need to be applied at room temperature. It does not level like epoxy, which also means that it doesn't pull away from edges while curing, a big advantage on lures with carved features like cupped poppers, or carved gills etc. When not in use this stuff must be kept in an airtight solvent-proof container, as it cures with humidity, which means thats it will thicken over time...not a bad thing until it gets to the point of congealing, at which time it is difficult to work with. For me, this worked out to be about 7 months of use out of a pint. I hope to do better with the next pint, but it was still very economical in the long view.

It is very clear and very tough stuff. I brush mine on a lure and turn it for a few minutes until the solvent goes. After that I hang in my laundry room, which is more humid than my work room, and add a coat a day, usually using 3 coats when it is new and going on very thin. Total cure is actually after 30 days, but after 2 or 3 days it is difficult to tell it is not 100% cured.

Dean

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Husky are you sure its the Right Shore of hardness ?I know mine is since i buy from same source Rapala uses .Just buying prop pellets dont put you on the right thing & just a tip if you use it as topcoat this coat/sealer cures over a timespan of 3 months & i bet the seller on EBAY didnt know that but i know he

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Husky are you sure its the Right Shore of hardness ?I know mine is since i buy from same source Rapala uses .Just buying prop pellets dont put you on the right thing & just a tip if you use it as topcoat this coat/sealer cures over a timespan of 3 months & i bet the seller on EBAY didnt know that but i know he

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thats a bit too hard in my mind remember this cures over a timespan of 3 months when diluted in thinners might turn out ok but might turn out to be brittle too

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thats a bit too hard in my mind remember this cures over a timespan of 3 months when diluted in thinners might turn out ok but might turn out to be brittle too

Like I said, I still have jars of dissolved utensils to get through.;) I use Rattle cans so the solvents in the mixes won't allow me to top coat. I wish I could use it as a TC because my baits are big and it's a pain to use the Epoxy TC's on big baits, IMO. What I do use it for is over my photo foil creations as the 1st TC. It quickly fills the seams and doesn't react to the inks on the tissue. If memory serves, some member here said that they TC over water based paints that are heat cured.

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Hey guys a little something to add I make balsa baits and someone told me about a clear coat something to do with floor sealer or concrete sealer he told me the name of it pollusha or something im in ohio and there was a guy who made baits around dayton who passed away but they said he used it and it is one part no mixing and the stuff is rock hard and lasts forever anyone know of this stuff? thanx Todd

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