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charkins

Pouring using a Frydaddy

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Del, here are the answers to your questions. I appreciate your help very much. The nipple is 1 inch long. The nipple and valve are brass. The valve is hot. I touched it. Mistake! I heat the plastic in the microwave until it is at a state that I normally pour (kinda like syrup, not molassis). While the plasic is heating, I plug in the converted frydaddy. Temperature was about 340 degrees when I placed heated plastic into frydaddy. I have a shortened paint stirrer hooked to a tabletop drillpress that is doing stirring at slowest speed. When thermometer gets to 350, I start to pour. I have to clear nipple with 1/4 inch bolt to start flow. Flow is slow with valve wide open.

Thanks for any help you might have.

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Whats up doc ( bet you never heard that one before;)

Cal

I am guessing you will need to make sure the valve is really hot ( like 340) well before you pour.

Also what kinda valve did you get? can you take a picture of it. would be nice to open it all the way out of the pot and take a pic also.

not all valves are created equal.

some valves when open have a restriction like tube size is 1/2 but the valve opening size is 1/4 inch then goes back to a tube size of 1/2/ this could be a problem.

a ball valve is best but I have only seen them in steel/stainless steel never brass. they have a opening of the same size as your tube that you would use.

Brass fittings are good as they heat up very fast, but at the same time they loose heat fast also. this would mainly be a problem in cold temps( I dont think its the problem)

you might want to try a steel fitting just for the heck of it.

one other thing you might want to try 3/8 or 1/2 pipe and valve as well. as 1/4" might be too small especially with a valve that has a smaller opening.

sounds like you got everything ok, now you just need to fine tune it. that might explain the slow flow.

one other thing taht might explain the slow flow is that you dont have enough plastic in it. the weight of the plastic will gravity feed out of the hole. more plastic more weight faster flow this is very critical on smaller openings.

Delw

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Del,

The valve is brass and the package it came in said ball valve. So I presume. The valve does open all the way up. You can stick a 1/4 inch bolt all the way through. In fact, you have to push the bolt in to get the plastic to run at all. My garage is being heated day and night. The thermometer on the wall said 63 degrees. I had about 2 1/2 cups of plastic in the pot when I started pouring.

Should I let the pot set some more before I pour? Should I leave the drill press off until I get ready to pour?

Thanks

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Del,

The 1 inch nipple coming out of the pot is 1/4 inch brass. It is attached to 1/4 inch brass valve. A 1/4 inch diameter bolt will just fit inside the valve and the nipple. The reason the hole in the frydaddy is 7/16 is that the outside diameter of the brass pipe and valve are approximately 1/2 inch in diameter.

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Cal, I know that the outside is bigger on pipe threads but what I am getting at is the inside dia. might be too small, a 1/4" is a very small hole to get a good flow of plastic through. the guys I know that have made them are using 1/2" and 3/8" inside dia. the 3/8s gives a pretty good flow the 1/2" is best.

one customer has a 3/4" inside dia. and when he wants a slower flow he screws on a 3/8" reducer

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Well, the 1/4 inch ball valve did not let any of the plastic out so I am installilng a 1/2 nch ball valve this morning. I will let you know if that works. By the way, I did not use a tap for the hole, I just drilled the hole the same size as the outside diameter of the fitting and used some heat resistant epoxy, the name escapes me right now. Fang, getting old is a, what was I talking about!?

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I have ceased work on my frydaddy. I am going to write this one off as a loss. I can't get a decent flow and it takes a lot of plastic.

I had/have the same problem. I feel the same way you do. I still have a few tricks up my sleeve that I want to try b4 I write the frydaddy off as a complete loss, dang it I have 2 of them set up to pour, tried the spout in the lower side, then (now) in the bottom.

I'll post what I come up with (if anything works) after I get the chance to mess with them again.

I didnt notice a screw in the bottom (for thermostat adjustment) but I havent really looked for that specifically (yet).

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Your set up is sweet PBB. I studied yours prior to attempting mine. I guess the biggest difference between the Presto pots and frydaddys (other than physical size) is the adjustable termostat. Frydaddys dont have these therefore you cant easily alter the temperature. I can only achieve about 335 degrees fahrenheit with either of mine. Rumors (on this board) have it that there is a screw that can be tweeked to alter the temps, but as of yet I havent really looked for it.

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the fry daddy wouldn't make a good pourer just because the aren't adjustable I don't think they would work very good.I had an old sunbeam fryer/cooker I started to modify this for a melting pot it goes up to 450 degrees I think It will work great I need to finish the stand this week and I'll trial this weekend can't wait

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I use the Ozark pouring pot set up on a 10 inch table top drill press with a paint stirrer to keep everything mixed up. For stick baits, I put in 1 quart of Plastic, softener, salt, colorant and glitter then heat the entire batch in the pouring pot. I pour an average of 1 gallon of plastic a day using this system. Keep it simple. Any questions, PM me.

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